Abo Bob

Ok the general rule is that bar and plate cool better but are more restrictive. Tube and fin flow better but don't cool quite as well. Most people put the tube and fin on their skylines because they don't need any extra restrictions, especially with a stock turbo like you obviously have. I have a tube and fin. Enough said. :D

You can definitely notice the difference in grip between what you can fit on the larger rims and what will fit on the 7's. I too would recommend you buy second hand off the forums. I have done so 3 times with no worries. Maybe someone it upgrading from 17's to 18's and will sell you the rims and tyres for a good price. It does happen.

When it's clean.

A little under $6k got me: STRIP & CLEAN 6 CYL TWIN CAM ENGINE BORE & HONE 6 CYL ENGINE WITH TORQUE PLATE MILL 6 CYL BLOCK CHECK SIZE & POLISH 6 CYL CRANK SUPPLY AND FIT SCREW IN OIL GALLERY PLUGS TO NISSAN L/RB/CA/SR CRANKSHAFT CLOSE AND GRIND CONROD PIN FIT ROD SHOT PEEN CONROD SET BALANCE 6 CYL ENGINE FULL HEAD SERVICE FULL GASKET SET- NISSAN RB25DET COMETIC MLS HEAD GASKET WISECO FORGED PISTON W/- RINGS ARP ROD BOLT SET- RB30 CONROD BEARING SET- NISSAN RB30 MAIN BEARING SET- RB30 GATES RACING TIMING BELT TIMING BELT TENSIONER BLUEPRINT ASSEMBLE 6 CYL DOHC LONG ENGINE SUPPLY MACHINE & FIT OIL PUMP DRIVE COLLAR- RB25/RB26 I supplied the cams and paid to transport the engine to and fro which wasn't much considering.

Corners. You wouldn't understand.

Very.

Most likely, it's insanely rich right now. I'll pick up some mid range power with some fuel taken out too.

Call Mike at MV AUTOMATICS (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood SA 5051 (08) 8370 0430 ) and ask him.

I just tried to take some vids but they were crap. Pics once it's clean. All run in now.

I might be interested but no city for me either.

By stock induction I think they meant no pod or cold air intake. It has taken me a couple of weeks to notice that there has been a small drop in respnsiveness down low due to the reduced CR. The midrange say from 4500 to 6000 is perhaps better than the graph lets on. I feel like I don't need to rev it as hard to go fast. Sounds awesome both at idle and when going for it.

As long as you are getting it tuned professionally you can't go wrong in terms of blowing it up. I posted a link to my thread because I have the Powerplay ROM tune. 666DAN has the bikirom working but not tuned yet. He will be getting it tuned in the next month or so I'm guessing. I think the ROM tunes are about to come of age. If I am right your upgrade outlook may change. That said, putting a slightly larger turbo and a bigger fuel pump with adjustable fuel regulator will give you a nice improvement as will a SITC if you can find one.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...6entry1860376

Well I've just been to Bel Garage and this is my dyno sheet. Things of note: Auto. 255rwkw peak power. Around 600nm of torque average. 0.9 bar boost from GCG highflow turbo. Tomei 260deg Poncams. 8.75:1 compression ratio. 3 inch exhaust is fairly quiet compared to many that I've heard. Stock airbox with panel filter. Stock AFM. Pings lightly at around 7k with more boost and only made another 4rwkw at 1 bar anyway. Tune is a Powerplay ROM tune which hasn't been changed since the rebuild. Transmission has been rebuilt to handle the power and shifts very crisply. Massive thanks to Greg from Pro Engines for all his time and effort. He spent hours on the phone to me talking things through so that I could wade through all the information and bullshit out there. He really knows his stuff and is happy to tell you what he knows. I got so many bum-steers from people who wanted my money but also wanted to give me a generic job. Big thanks also to Duncan who lent me whatever I could use and helped remove the engine. He also helped me on the phone numerous times. Big thanks to ed who helped me both remove and refit the engine at home and brought his tools too. I can tell you that I am grateful your parents are chinese because fitting a hand between the transmission tunnel and the bell housing is almost impossible for bigger people like me . And that jack held everything up for weeks too! Mine droops overnight More thanks to wrxhoon for all the phone and pm advice. The amount of times I heard 'well on the R33/GTR/R32 it's like this' and it was actually helpful was amazing. The R32, R33 and R34 are really quite closely related even if not too many parts are interchangeable. And not to forget BLK R33 GTST who very kindly helped me get the engine to and from Queanbeyan safely and kennedy for your help lifting the heavy bastard off the ground. Lastly, thanks to the whole of SAU for your contributions from 'what have I done ' to 'look what I've done now ' If anyone wants to remove and refit an engine themselves at home I can tell you that it is a time consuming, frustrating but ultimately very satisfying experience. Just make sure you remember your SAU friends because you will need them.

I can't think of anything better to buy for the money. You have a supercar fetish Alien and $169k wont get you there.

$20k is someone who doesn't want to do it. I'd just take the money from the insurance co and get a half cut in the right colour. You would end up making money on it which will cover your increased premiums and the excess.

That's what the wheel alignment guy said. He spent a bit of time trying to figure it out. That amount of camber is fine anyway. (lucky me)

I have the stock boost gauge and it plumbs into the plenum at the rear on a short bit of hose I think. I put a new boost gauge in and they read different to each other. The new one reads 2-3 psi lower. It is plumbed in at the front of the plenum but with a long bit of hose. What gives?

It's all fairly even. Looks like I've lowered it 2.5cm which is what I wanted. I've driven around a bit and it's firmer than before but not ridiculously so. It was still ok on the highway down the coast and some fairly bumpy roads down there. I'm yet to get to the track but we will see when I do.

They seem fine to me unless this variation in boost readings turns out to be the gauge. They are very bright. You can come and check them out at a cruise or sometime else if you like Lucien. I'm in Ryde.

Well I've put the lowered springs and shocks in and went for a wheel alignment today. .................. Before - After Rear .......... Toe Left ..... 0.6mm ..... 0mm Toe right .... 3.5mm .... 0mm Camber left.. -1,21deg .. -1,02deg Camber right -1,31deg .. -1,01deg Front .......... Toe left....... -1mm ..... 0mm Toe right .... 1.1mm .... 0mm Camber left.. -1,19deg .. -1,17deg (not adjustable) Camber right. -1,30deg .. -1,29deg (not adjustable) Caster left.... +5,50deg .. same (max) Caster right.. +5,47deg .. same (max) The adjustable parts and uprated sway bars will have to come with more money and inclination. Not too bad in the end but more caster at least would be preferable.

So you think we should go to the track with no gauges to tell us how healthy our car is at any point in time? I have been to the track plenty of times and will be again this year. The reason I put that new boost gauge in was because I blew my engine when the AVCR read a much lower boost than was actually in there. The gauge is very much a safety item.

Here are the guages installed. I had to install a switch to turn the gauges off because when driving at night in the country they are too bright. Interestingly the new boost gauge shows about 2-3 psi less than the stock gauge even though they both come off the plenum but in different spots. The new one has a long length of hose to get to the sender unit, perhaps that is the issue. Here is the engine bay pretty much done.

Small update. I'm on hols so no big details or pics here but I have done the run in and put some more boost into it. Running 0.9 bar now. The mid range feels so strong now I hardly go near the redline. I can't wait until I can put some more boost in and rev it up. I notice the slightly different sounds of the pistons. I now understand what people say about forged piston noise. It's only just noticeable and only because I know my car. The cams have made the car a little wobbly on start up and given it a slightly lumpy idle. When cold the idle is quite erratic but once warmed up it's just a slight lope. It definitely sounds beastier now. More updates to come.

I have had mine backwards in the past as I did it the wrong way round. To tell just touch the oil cooler after a drive and it should be quite warm. Mine was cold hence telling me that the oil wasn't flowing. Switched the hoses and away we went.