Abo Bob

Nah the other one is chrome like. It doesn't wipe off either. I do know that that is the side that hits the bump stop on the track sometimes. Never the other side. Also there is evidence of it leaking. Oh well, 95000 and bilsteins going in so who cares really. I was just curious.

1:11 is quick. I've done a number of 1:12's. No suspension mods, highflow turbo running 0.85 bar, semi slicks, auto.

I'll do the rears next weekend and add them to the thread. Maybe then it could be moved to the tutorials section. The engine is halfway built Mr Hoon I wanted to post a pic of the old shockie to ask people about it. The bit that slides in and out is normally shiny chrome like but this one is black. The other one was normal looking. Why is that?

Then you can either lever the shock up onto the stud like in the pic. or put some weight on the brake assembly to push it down. It's a bit hard to put the weight on an manouvre the strut by yourself so that's why I used a lever. Anyway, after that you redo the bolt holding the brake line onto the shock and the nut holding the shock on and the two on the top of the strut.

A bit of gentle levering gets the bottom eye of the stud/bolt thingie that it's on and the whole thing drops out easy as a slightly wet poo. To fit the new one, make sure you have the right one because they only go on one side and make sure you get it facing the right way because they only go in one direction. There is a little arrow on the top of the strut. Slip it up and put the top nuts on loosly just to hold it there.

Undo the bolts on top of the strut.

Well I've had these Bilsteins sitting around for ages so since my car has no engine I thought I'd have a go at putting them in. First get the car off the ground. Take the wheels off. This is probably not essential but I think makes it easier. Undo the bolt holding the brake line to the strut and the nut holding the bottom eye of the shockie as circled.

No they wont fit.

Good to see some fun was had. Did anyone get any pics at all?

You have to check with Auto-Motion.

I think type A is 254/260 In/Ex for RB25 and type B is 260/260. When I say the rods are the same I mean they are exactly the same. From the same place, same time, same material etc. I think if you put a GTR crank in you need different pistons too. Just put a collar on the RB25 crank and you will be right. There's not enough difference to matter. Installed some new gauges on the weekend. Also finished the front bar. It's just hanging on there at the moment.

I get some 1st gear open wheeling already but only when warmed right up. I'm quite likely to push it til it dies but it will piss me off if I can't get this power down properly.

I've emailed all who posted an email address. It would have been nice if you all read my post and made it a little easier for me. matty/AJKAPC - email me as per my earlier post and i'll forward the thing i have to you.

I found a bolt welded to the underside of the parcel tray support. Bolted a bracket made from flat aluminium 40mm x 2.5mm that goes across to the box and down to a mounting point on the side then another bracket was made with the same stuff. It was L shaped. The bottom part of the L goes parallel to the floor and you take out one of the rubber bungs and put a bolt through to another flat piece of aluminium. You then cut a slit in the carpet which can't be seen when you remove the bracket and the side of the L shape goes up through that to the same mounting point on the side of the box. This is a really solid mounting which is totally removable. I could go to a track day with it in I'm that confidant of it's strength. The only left over thing if you remove it is a slit in the carpet which you can't even see.

It is about my rebuild but it was also supposed to be a repository for NEO info which it has turned out to be. Shonen - you're obsessed with highmount. I'm more likely to put nos on it than a highmount. That said, a 2835ProS would be nice but I can't afford anything atm. I've already got the highflow so I'm sticking with that due to $$. I've got some cams going in though so that should make some difference. I think the 4 doors have the viscous LSD and the 2 doors get the helical LSD which means I'll be up for a new diff at some stage.

Nightcrawler just did it so his info is best.

Mine gathers dust.

Can't remember but if you want to come over to my place on the weekend for a trial fit you can because my car is in pieces already. Not sure how hard they are to remove.

The 2 door and 4 door are different lengths so without modification no they wont fit each other.

There was a thread on this exact thing about a week or two ago. They are different but seem to fit ok I think.

Thanks. I'll see how that goes.

There isn't a map available I'm told by GCG. Also I'm pretty sure it's the GT30 core but I can't remember how I know that. As we all know there are heaps of variables in engines. Dropping the compression in Bass' car might only net him the same power at more boost. For every 0.5 drop in compression ratio you need roughly 0.2 bar increase in boost to achieve the same power. This is why I was never going to go down to 8.2 as someone recommended because I would have needed to push about 1.25 bar just to keep the same power I had at 0.85 bar previously.

Spectators no worries/free, passengers not usually. See how you go on the day although I suspect that those days are pretty much gone.

Any chance of this being fixed up? It gets confusing at times. Thanks.

I have a Powerplay ROM tune. Depending on the situation it can be a very good idea. I got great power from low boost. It's not another $1600 each retune though - more like $500