Abo Bob

2nd payments are due guys. A large number of people have not responded to my sms message or email regarding second payments. Get them in now.

This gets asked about 2-3 times a week. You don't even need to search. Just browse a couple of pages of the forced induction section.

Interesting. I had heard that the rods were the same but someone who had his rebuilt said they weren't. Well, we shall soon see.

You should take the turbo to either a jap wrecker (to compare side by side) or your local turbo shop and get it properly identified. Also, it wouldn't hurt to give us a pic taken from the same angle as my pic.

what's your aim with the car? What power? Are you going to upgrade the turbo?

Well they are the same series so I gues they are pretty much the same.

Here's what Bass Junky emailed to me one day. I sent him the pic and he sent it back. "Hi, Looking at the photo, I will make an assumption that the top turbo is of an R34 GTT. I have added a couple of little lines on the photo which illustrate the differences that I think there are between the R33 and R34 turbos. The relationship between the width of the gap between the snail and the flange, and the width of the flange itself is a pretty good indication of the turbo. R33 has a wider gap than the width of the flange, and the R34 or VG30 turbo has a gap which is slightly thinner that the width of the flange. Does this make sense? Cheers"

enewun?

mines at 13,000 goes good eh.

When you click send it just times out.

I wasn't making a comment on it. Just having a laugh with MS Paint. It's a million times better than anything I could do.

Year: 1999 Colour: Pearl White KMs: 95000 Mods: Nismo panel filter, Blitz FMIC, CES split dump/front pipe, Fujitsubo cat back, Nismo 480cc injectors, R34 GTR fuel pump, R34 GTR fuel regulator, Chipped ECU, GCG highflow turbo, AVC-R, full respray, rebuilt transmission to handle 300rwkw. RwKw: [email protected] bar Now has blown engine as latest mod.

I did a chop of my own.

I'll look into it.

It's a little more realistic title at least. The final word? I don't think so... There are 283 posts in this final word.

Engine/Car: Rb25 R34 auto GTT Type of failure: Presumed ringlands in no. 6 Factors influencing the failure: Little hose connected to T-piece going to boost controller split as it didn't have any cable ties or anything the hold it. I had been fiddling with the boost controller for some time trying to get consistant boost but was having some trouble. Hind sight tells me the hose slowly split causing this problem. Anyway, it wasn't getting anywhere near the set boost level so I put the duty up and up slowly with no change then I put it up heaps and the thing shot up off the stock gauge (boost) but AVC-R still only registered about 0.8 bar. Pinged like a mofo. Engine light flashed. Damage done. State of tune of the engine: Tune was done for 0.85 bar despite the fact I asked for it to be tuned to higher boost. I did know this however, and I knew that higher boost caused detonation as it had happened on the dyno while checking my air/fuel ratios. Tune was a chipped stock ECU. Suspension and tyres: Doesn't matter. Oil used and service interval: Motul Chrono 3-5000kms. General comments: Stupid me.

I will be there Mr Madman. As long as you have the form there already filled in and the cash then I can take it from you.

Nice and safe from those harmful UV rays too...

Yep they suck.

I spotted Bu5ter around that area too on the weekend. Car was sounding sweet. I was actually looking the other way at a nice black r33 gtst when you drove past on the inside lane. Did you see that one? You drive too slow too .

I haven't got my hoist installed yet .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=69089&hl= I posted this thread a while ago but all the pics were lost in the forum changeover recently.

The diff is all in the exhaust housing size. It's a bit hard to tell from here tbh. If you had two side by side the difference it obvious.

Thanks for the added info guys. I've been collecting containers and boxes to put stuff in. Thanks for the vote of confidance Jerry. I already have your number and I might give you a call if I get stuck but hopefully I'll be ok. I'm going to pull the front bar off and remount my intercooler while the engine is away so perhaps I should remove the air con condenser while I'm there?? And do we have consensus on removing the rear gearbox mount/cross member? Ie; can I leave it connected to keep it all solid since the transmission is staying in? Is there enough room for the engine with the drive shaft sticking out to clear the bay? Obviously I'll support the front of the trannie.

Well done. Didn't need help after all.