Abo Bob

Cheap as chips. Keep looking and you will find it. Check every little hose and connection to pipes etc.

Is there smoke out your exhaust? If not then it sounds like a hose has either come off or split somewhere. This is quite likely. Keep the engine running while you listen for hissing noises indicating the leak. Might have to get someone else to rev it hard and quick to get a little spool so you can hear it.

My bus? I guess I should go and get it then. 3 magazines in 1 month! Haha. You know you can invite the mags to your events. They don't always show up though .

I know it's a bit corny but there are some good spots down near Luna Park with the Bridge as your background.

So since I am rebuilding my RB25 NEO (solid lifters) with RB26 rods and possibly some cams, does that mean I can safely rev it a bit higher? I note that the NEO RB25 has a 7050 redline rather than the 6850 redline of earlier models however I can't say it does much with the extra revs in my experience.

I love the stickers on the blue R34. Is there a "VL ownahs luv teh cawk" sticker on the front or something like that? Looks like you guys had fun. You kind of all look like us too <_< .

Of course, now that I re-read proengines post I am just repeating what he said. Sorry - just ignore me.

Re: low down power - I would have thought that the capacity of the engine would make up for the overlap of a more conventionally agressive set of cams, at least in relation to an RB26. The overlap is part of what gives the extra power though because the incoming air is forcing a more complete evacuation of the exahust gases from the cylinder. At least that's how I understand it.

I think the readings are all lower if the engine is cold but it shouldn't affect the evenness of it.

Dude, 95% of all imported skylines are wound back in Japan. Ignore the km's completely. Look for wear on the steering wheel, drivers seat, handbrake, floor mat etc.

Sounds like the engine was cold when it was done too. The numbers aren't too important. I don't think those numbers are even enough. Anyone else agree?

I don't think anyone here was really trying to find an efficiency or inefficiency but just wondering if they painted their intercooler for asthetic reasons would it cause any problems.

I'm just making an educated guess here but isn't it to do with the rod/stroke ratio and side load on the rods?

There has been a couple of threads on this in the last few weeks. A leak down test is more informative than a compression test. Also, it's more important that the compression is even than that it is a particular psi on a particular gaugue on a particular day with a particular battery level with whatever temperature the engine is. All of those things affect the reading.

Oh shit. My roof is lowish. And car will be raised while removing making matters worse. So I've hit the first snag and I haven't even started yet!

Thanks guys. Are you saying Duncan, that I can't take the engine out without the gear box or just that there is not enough room to move it forward to get the drive shaft out without tilting it? I will take the radiator out cos that's easy. Do you guys normally do that? Why do I need to remove the harmonic balancer? I thought the engine rebuilding place would do that.

Rotars. They surprised me. All their entries were in just 2 deposits.

It's not a lag issue, it's response. I think you would get improved response with a front facing plenum but with stock plenum it doesn't matter which way the piping goes.

I'm pulling out my engine to get it rebuilt next weekend. Any tips from the experienced? It's an R34 GTT auto.

That has been discussed in another thread also believe it or not .

That's it! I'm pulling it out and painting it pink.

I used an etching primer. Very light coat of each. Very light. I'd say it probably makes SFA difference either way unless you put too much paint on.

Exactly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=55797&hl=

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