Abo Bob

Have you guys tried putting some Redline Lightweight Shockproof in there yet? It looks like smurfs blood. That seems to fix heaps of skylines gearbox problems.

What does that mean Mars?

It sort of looks like you are running higher boost as it is. Surging is where you are putting the turbo out of it's efficiency range. The car surges forward and the boost curve is like a wave.

It looks like it's surging as it is.

I'll take the rods. sending pm now.

Sounds like a pretty happy dyno but just the same it sounds alright to me. Knowing what I know now (as opposed to before I went too far) I would sit back and accept that as pretty good and enjoy it. Post your dyno sheet if you like and we can comment on that.

Thanks guys. I'll be in touch in due course.

I'm in the same situation too and I've decided to rebuild with forgies but otherwise pretty much stock.

1. If I get 86.5mm pistons to suit a GTR and use a stock head gasket will I get 8.5:1 compression ratio or does this require the GTR crank? 2. Will I be getting the lower compression ratio by increasing the distance to the top of the bore when the piston is fully up? If so I might as well be using RB25 pistons and 1.6mm metal head gasket because the squish areas are still having their effectiveness reduced right? I'm thinking either Wiseco or Arias at this stage. 3. I've heard the NEO RB25 has GTR rods. Can anyone confirm? 4. How thick is the stock head gasket? 5. If I haven't got it right yet - how do I go about lowering the compression ratio to about 8.5-8.6 without wrecking the squish areas? 6. Do people think I will notice if I drop the CR to 8.2 instead? 7. I read elsewhere on here that dropping 0.5 in CR will require an increase of 0.2 in boost to get the same power. Is this true? Thanks.

I really don't know if I will be there or not. Nick I'll add you to the list.

You have to be quite lucky for it not to blow the turbo at 14psi. As NJR says, the turbo doesn't do anything usefull above 12 psi anyway.

You're in Canberra aren't you? Any chance of taking me for a spin when I'm down there next? I just want to see how the unichip affects the shifting.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=87738&hl= Just to keep the thread on topic.

Manage a proper restaurant.

Sorry for not reading your first post properly NJR. Ongsta - Greddy Profec B boost controller (taken from first post also) R31Nismoid - it's still a piggyback when it comes down to it. I think it's a good result. NJR - does the ECU still drop the timing at gear changes at high rpm WOT? Or does it sort of slide into gear? This thread certainly livened up!

You remember that split hose we fixed at WP? And the problems I had getting it to hold boost? Engine go bye bye. No. 6 has 50% of the compression that the others have.

Yep sounds like head gasket. = cheaper than my problem.

Forged pistons, 8.6:1 I think.

Probably $1800-$2k I would guess.

I'm out due to blown engine.

I thought the RB26 rods were the same (but thicker) but the RB26 crank was what you needed to stroke it? Also need RB26 pistons with that but that doesn't matter. Rb25 will do the job I'm after so although I'd like the RB30 I don't want the hassle and I'm short of cash for issues so I'm sticking to something fairly safe. Might get 250rwkw with a rebuilt RB25 and no other mods. Wont be many other tiptronic R34's out there to compete with that.

I blew mine up by taking it to the track a lot. I had 189rwkw for a while and that's when the damage was done. Then I got 228rwkw and it blew the night I got it back from the mechanics. Heat gets to them. Check the group buy section for valvebody replacements and the info in there.

I realise that this was a while ago but what's with the squigly power line? It's all over the shop.

Hey that was on a good day. You should see it today. It's twice as bad.

My engine has blown but you guys should all go. The rotary guys are keen. Brad from RENEW is going - he did 1:08's at Wakefield the other day. Should be a good day.