NEO RB25 also has solid lifters.
If you change the head to RB26 then most of the rest would be different, wiring particularly would be an issue.
I reckon you would be better either putting in a full RB26 or keeping your head and putting an RB30 bottom end under it.
Fair bit of info on this website if you do some reading.
nylon compressor wheel, ceramic exhaust wheel, good for 10-12 psi generally and around 200rwkw with proper engine management and supporting mods.
I say rebuild it then.
If it otherwise stock I would have said no because you are just opening yourself up to more expenses but it seems that a forged rebuild is all that you need to do to it.
What engine management?
Do a search :D:D:D
It is a bit hard at the moment but there was a really good thread on these exact things about a year ago. Try searching rotor threads that Roy has posted in.
I seem to recall the general consensus was that they were good value and did the job.
I am pretty sure because it has happened to other people before with R34's and I took notice. Then I spent an entire drag day deducing the problem. It was fine for one run but then do a second without 20-30 minute cooldown and the power loss was dramatic.
I have replaced it but not really tested because it doesn't really happen on the street. Only on the strip and down the straight on the track.
The R34 housing is noticably bigger than the R33 one. I've had them side by side and photographed them for the forum but the pics have been lost in the migration.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...1&st=&p=entry
That's why when you lot all started crapping on () about VG30 turbos I pointed out that the R34 turbo also has a bigger exhaust housing which is why I got 228rwkw from an AUTO at 12.5 psi.
I don't know the wheels offsets exactly but I know that wheels that fitted an R33 will fit an R34 properly. R32 are different.
what did the wheels you are looking at come off?