Abo Bob

That's a lot of money for pads. Bendix Ultimate front and rear for about $170 from one of the traders on this forum do a pretty good job.

Famous.

I'm 6'5" and have no problems except on the track I need to lean the seat back and bring it forward a notch to fit my helmet in. My insurance is about 1600-1700. RACQ will tell you where to go by quoting you $6k or something like that. If you import your own you can get whatever you want. 4 door = cheaper, tiptronic = cheaper ==good. I wouldn't buy one with the tv thing in it. It doesn't do much in Aus. Get one with the gauges instead.

It's the GTST and GTT ones where the split is much longer. I think it's worthwhile for these cars.

I have a ROM tune in my R34 and a Walbro fuel pump. On the dyno the mixtures were ridiculously rich (off the scale) and the tuner (not present at the time) suggested fuel pressure. We measured the fuel pressure and it was 3.3 bar at idle. Changed back to the stock fuel pump (measured at 2.7 bar I think) and it ran fine. Now obviously I need a bigger fuel pump so I figure I need an adjustable fuel regulator. Nobody makes a fuel regulator specifically for the GTT so I thought I'd put a second, adjustable one in series with the standard one. The one this guy is selling looks about right I guess??? So the questions are: Is this alright to put them in series? Mostly people adjust the pressure up to push the injectors but I am adjusting down, is this ok? Do I insert a T piece into the vacum line going to the stock regulator to feed the Sard one? Does that sard one need this? Anything else I should know? Thanks.

Shin doesn't hurt much. Pics coming.

It's the radiator suport that needed to be cut into which I didn't like. I may end up doing it one day.

I barely use mine anymore. Just drive easy the last bit before you park.

Elbow worst pain?? Try your stomach... for nine hours.

Ok how does it drive? It is less likely to creep forward if you let off the brake at idle. More likely to roll backwards a little down a hill without brake. 1st to 2nd jumps in quite firmly now. Noticeable but not uncomfortable at low speeds. I am yet to redline it to see if it chirps but been close although I have semi slicks on at the moment. This is the most improved area I think. 2nd to 3rd firmer but still fairly smooth. Not as firm as 1st to 2nd. 3rd to 2nd, very firm. 3rd to 4th, much better at high speed, no firmness but still quicker at street speeds. Changing from 3rd to 4th at about 180km/h it securely and immediately went into gear whereas before it would take almost 2 seconds to slide in.

Sadly this is the best photo I have. Red circles indicate the bolts that need to be removed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...54&page=1&pp=30

Ok the kit is in and it works fine. Basically the bolts you need to remove to get the thing out are all around the outside. If you look up near the gear shift lever mechanism you'll see that there are about 3 that don't need to be removed. Also, you'll need to remove the sensors and stuff which I think will take care of the few bolts that are not around the outside that hold it up. Mike told me there were about 7 bolts holding it up but there are more like about 15-20. The welsh plugs that you put in go in the middle two holes of the four. I sanded them ever so lightly with 1200 grit sandpaper because I couldn't for the life of me get them in otherwise. Three springs come out but only one goes back in. It's the lightest (ie easiest to compress). I needed the jack to compress the spring enough to get the valvebody back in. Use some longer bolts in the shorter bolt holes to get some bite and get at least 4 or 5 in before you start ratchetting them up because you don't want to strip threads. I wrote down a little map with the numbers that are on the bolts on it but that didn't take into consideration the fact that there are 3 different lengths of the ones labelled '7'. It's not a big drama in the end which bolts you use because when you have most of them in you can tell that some are too long so you swap it with others one by one. Overall it was very time consuming because there are shitloads of bolts and they are many different lengths.

Does it have "driving lights"? Tell us the whole story. What was the cop seeing? They didn't just look at a piece of black plastic and say turn those lights off.

Why do you say there is no need? I installed a Walbro and it ran rediculously rich because the fuel pressure was too high. I'm looking for a regulator to bring the pressure down.

Everyone wants a bargain. PM sent.

It's exactly the same size as the normal RB25 and RB20 ones. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=z32%2A+what http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=z32%2A+what http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=z32%2A+what

They don't fit them themselves anyway.

I think it's the fuel pump on the way out or could be the regulator not adjusted properly if it's adjustable in the first place.

NewYork? $$$?

So is this a monaro or some kind of skyline?

I have now installed my high flow from GCG however I had some issues with fuel pressure so was unable to turn the boost up much. No dyno readout yet but I can say that at 0.8 bar I noticed the boost comes on later than stock but harder. The on boost part of the rev range in first gear gets used up dangerously quickly; I short changed by accident several times and hit the rev limiter once which I don't like doing. I don't know how much power I've got but I overtook an R34 GTR down the Eastern Creek straight yesterday. (Only just) When I get a hold of a fuel regulator I will turn the boost up and let you all know.

The dentist does not charge less. If he is an expert then that price is reasonable. He should be able to tell you in an hour what is good and what isn't.

What are the settings? Have you got the readout for us to peruse?

Received mine today thanks. All looks like the promised product.