Abo Bob

Not only didn't I have ramps but I temporarily lost my jack. Raaaar!

I pulled my valvebody out on the weekend and sent it to Mike yesterday. There are sooo many bolts in there its scary. There are about 6 different kinds of bolts too. They are different lengths. I was really worried so first I drew a diagram with the bolt numbers. Then when I took the bolts out I laid them carefully in the right order and placement. I also took lots of photos. The problem is that you don't need to take them all out but it's really hard to tell which ones you don't have to take out. I ended up with about 38 bolts out (not including the 30 from the pan) but Mike said I only need to take take out about 7. The other problem is that the bloody thing never stops dripping transmission fluid all over you so it's really hard to peer up into it and see what's going on without getting fluid in your eye. Also, I think he underestimated in that some of the wires and and sensors that unplug from the valvebody are bolted in. So you don't need to unbolt these bolts because they hold the valvebody up but if you don't then the thing will be hanging by its wires when you unbolt it all. After all this stuffing around on the weekend, I spoke to Mike yesterday and he said not to worry about where the bolts all go, just rip em all out because he will put it together properly so when you get it back it will be obvious which bolt goes where. So I am now sending all the bolts down to him. If you are doing it yourself it might help you to know the following: There is a black roughly oblong shaped pan thing bolted to the bottom of the valvebody. This is the filter. Unbolt it completely and get Mike to put a new one on. This is general maintenance that you should be doing anyway. None of the bolts that are covered by the filter require removing. I suggest you go around the outside of the valvebody taking those bolts off then crack ALL of the rest of the bolts. This enables you to wiggle the whole valvebody around and then you can see which ones are holding the thing up. Hope this helps. It was a totally new experience for me. ps have fun playing in the transmission fluid. You will get it everywhere.

Excuse me. You are Sydneykid. That means no joking. I'm not joking. Well, actually I am joking. You were joking weren't you? Haha, just joking. I knew you were joking.

All measured with police radar. Speedo was all the round to 'Made in Japan'. (ps that's a joke, it was off the scale but looked like over 260)

Yes and no. I think that with mass produced vehicles that sometimes everything just lines up that much closer to spec, and by luck everything balances just enough better than normally to make the whole thing sing. Examples for me have been cop cars as my mate was a pursuit car driver for a while. The early XR6's would top out around 215 to 225 km/h, but there was one that did 240. (Yes the cops have a private track to test these things on.) There was that XR6 and a VP Commodore V8 out of about 150 cars that all the cops that drove them knew were freak cars. All that said perhaps if you pulled their engines apart and weighed and measured (in every way) every part of them you would find the real reason; rather than the "oh it's a freak" answer. Also... we have been discussing Bens car for a while now and while he seems happy to take the blame as driver error for his performances; 200rwkw and only 14 seconds down the quarter? Doesn't add up.

I generally don't like when people do this but... does anyone know if these are the same as the R34 ones? Cos I think the rear R34 GTR fits my car. Not sure about front.

I was just thinking about this today. I think you can get these things called adjustable camber tops. (I think) So you just stop your car and get out with the right size socket, loosen two nuts (for each one), move the wheel somehow and then tighten back up. They have markings on them so you know exactly how many degrees you are adjusting them and therefore don't need a machine to tell you. Anyone else heard of these? Can you get them for R34? I guess the idea is that you adjust it to suit your driving at the time. Ie; for the track put 5 degrees in or something, for the street 1.5...

I used to have that and I got sick of the lack of traction. I admit it was fun for mini drift but really, if you up the power you will need the grip.

phew.

It would work fine.

I was going to say that Ian but I couldn't be bothered typing it at the time.

I think they dry out and don't grip as well although there is some stuff you can get to paint onto them which softens them up again.

Mate, if you going fo r18's you want to go for wider rims. I'd suggest 18x8 on the front and 18x9 on the back with 225/40/18 on the front and 255/35/18 on the back. You could go to 235 and and 265 with very little change in circumference though.

No because we have an R34 (link above) with 45v1 on it.

I think this is why I have such a good time at WP. I have RE55's now. Watch the **** out!!!!

Since I've ditched the dance music and metal I've been driving slower. I haven't ditched them entirely just 90%. Listening to System of a Down now though :D:D

It sounds like a major bearing which is a major expense and mojor job. Haven't heard one on an RB but I have on a V8 and your description fits.

Hmm, it's looking like the other turbo I have is series 2 R33. Can one of you R33 owners look at that link I posted above and tell if the car is series one or two. That's the car this turbo came from. Anyone want to post a pic of the turbo side on so we can see the size of the exhaust housing? This 45v1.2.3. thing is weird.

:Oops: :Oops: :Oops: :Oops: :Oops: :Oops: :Oops:

Of what?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...o+%24500+r34%2A And there was this thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=31413 This is part of the turbo that E-Lu-ShuN took of his R34.

It doesn't really matter how strong it is because the exhaust wheel will always **** out first. 12psi all the way:D:D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...all&ppuser=1347 Is this a series one or two?