Abo Bob

What kind of sound does it make when you tap it with your fingernail? I had assumed my R34 turbo was plastic/nylon/whatever till I did this and it sounded tinny so I dug out the old one to check and they seem to be the same. They also look the same as the pic you have posted. Hmm, What does yours say, 45v????

Well I've just pulled the turbo off my GTT which is 7/99 series one and put it next to one from an R33 series one. First thing is that on the side of the compressor covers the R33 one has 45 v 1 whereas the R34 one has 45 v 4 on it. The compressor covers appear identical. Now I know this goes contrary to popular opinion but the R34 compressor wheel appears to be metal just like the R33 one. On the R33 compressor side outlet there is a 1 cast on the outside and a 3 printed on the inside. On the R34 these are both 2's. On the exhaust housing on the r33 one is cast 307B 2IU, a bit further round there is an 8.. The equivalent on the R34 one is 527A OP6 and further round a 9. On the other side of the exhaust housing we have F 2IU (R33) and E OP6 (R34). One thing that is definitely noticable but a bit hard to measure is that the R34 exhaust housing is bigger than the other one. Also the entry port from the manifold is wider on the R34 by about 1mm or so in both directions. Anyway, I just thought I'd post this for general information. Perhaps people can add their knowledge to it. Maybe if someone has an R33 series 2 turbo or R32 one off the car in front of them they could post the equivalent details. Search words : identify R33 R34 NEO turbo difference 45v1 45v2 45v3 45v4

Try Louie at Xclusive colours 0413 581 099

Soooo.... cruise you say?

That's about double what it's worth but good luck to ya.

It would be a pretty steep mountain to keep you on boost for that long. Anyway, my opinion is clear and my blown turbo is no argument against it.

I thought 13.8 was a crap time but I'm no drag racer.

I think you should be at about 0.8 to 0.9 to allow for a little more boost. 0.6 is too low, you will lose power.

don't quite get your drift. :confused: I said 12psi fine for the street. My boost spiked due to bad installation of AVC-R and this was on the track. Yes my turbo is busted.

That's it then. We are going to Tetsuya's next month.

I've never heard of this problem either. Have you tried swapping the injectors to see if one might be faulty?

And that was a well thought out comment.

Customer service was shite. I don't think I'll be needing any more steak for a few weeks but what I ate was tasty.

I got 27 rwkw from the ECU. I noticed an immediate gain from the panel filter but I've never had a pod so can't really comment. I know that they flow better than stock filter but if it is not enclosed in a box then you are sucking hot engine bay air into it which will decrease performance. I don't think I gained much if any power from the FMIC. And yes I did get a decrease in response (different from lag) from it. It went fine with the stock cooler but I got it to keep it safer with cooler air. Obviously it didn't really help because I've blown my turbo anyway. Maybe it would have happened sooner. I am putting a high flow turbo on there now. I wanted a GTRS but have decided to save my money for now. I'll see what I can get out of this.

Haha, funny thing is when Bass Junky started this off I thought, well I don't need one now but I may in the future so I'll get one anyway. Well I'll be needing one in the next month or so, so I guess it will be timed about right.

I think that is true about the falcon ones. The information is definitely available somewhere on this forum. There is a very long thread about o2 sensors so look in there.

Motorman - I've been running 0.8 to 0.85 bar for about 8 or 10 months I think. I have a full exhaust including split dump/front pipe combo which is HPC coated. Nismo panel filter. Chipped ECU Auto/tiptronic AVC-R Blitz LM Intercooler 189rwkw last tested before cooler install. I don't think that a very good 1/4 mile time. It was consistant though cos I did about 30 odd passes that day. 13.9 in 'D', 14 flat down to 13.8 changing gears with the buttons. Stock boost is 7psi, just under 0.5 bar. That's a fact. Nah Elushun - High flow going in now. I think 12 psi is safe for an r34. Mine spiked on the track. 190km/h near redline and pfft. 12 psi is definitely safe on the street. If I think about it; as I came out of the last turn onto the straight in second gear I floored it, so from there to the end of the straight (90km/h up to 190km/h) I was on boost permanently. So an already hot turbo from the track work I was doing, coupled with a sustained period of high boost and add those to the fact that it spiked to 0.91 bar and it's no wonder it blew. Anyway, steel wheel going in now.

I got a Fujitsubo one which is pretty quiet.

You do dyno runs in one gear only. This shouldn't make any difference to power output. It just makes you quicker because the gears change quicker.

I think people should be aware that steel wool is not the same thing as a stainless steel scourer that you scrub your pots and pans with. It is the latter that you should be using I believe. You fill the can up completely.

Here ya go. This is mine.

Those three gaugues in the centre are one unit so you can't just pull one out and replace it with a different kind. I believe about 12psi is safe to run but I can tell you from first hand experience that you shouldn't push it more than that. Mine spiked to 0.91 bar on sunday and that blew my turbo.

Well you got me there Nah I'm too tall to have a car with a sunroof. You got the Xenons?

What about HKS 2835 Pro?

It could be but I don't really know. It's a sort of an educated guess.