Abo Bob

Also if the tailshaft was unbolted at the yoke and bolted back on at 90 degrees to original it can cause this.

It's a vent. I never thought of that but it's a good idea. I should have done it with mine but luckily no injury from my failures.

+1

That's only cos that's the biggest number he put on the poll. I stopped counting at about $15k I think. I've since had a full engine rebuild, manual conversion, suspension ,brakes and other bits and pieces, yet I look at it and think hmm, all it needs is a, b, c and d; oh and e, f, g and maybe h, i and j. Then I'll be happy.

9:1 should work well then. Good response but safe enough to be easier to tune. This is what the standard RB25's are.

Oz has them on his new GTR. Seems to be enjoying them so far. I'm trying to organise a track day atm so will check them out.

I reckon!! Sorry for the totally unhelpful response.

Oh no way! Dammit!!!! Now I know. haha. I know exactly what you mean but didn't think of it myself dammit.

Wakefield Park has open days on Monday 22 October and Wednesday 24 October. They have nothing listed for the previous weekend of 20-21 October so we are thinking about asking for them to open for us then. What do people think about these dates? Who's interested? I've put a poll in. Vote for more than one if you can do it. Obviously most people can do weekends but weekdays are harder. If your preference is the weekend but you could possibly swing a weekday, vote in both. Personally I'm hoping for a weekend but will try to go on the wednesday if we can't pull that off.

Just a quick heads up, may not apply in this case but you never know over the net. A lot of times people with skylines think they have a stuffed wheel bearing it turns out to be something else (like warped rotors). If you've seen Skyline wheel bearings out of the car you will understand, they are well over engineered. I've had stuffed wheel bearings in previous cars and I was positive that's what was wrong with my line but I was wrong.

I didn't realise you'd bought a GTR Tommo. My clutch was like this until about a week ago. I adjusted it at the pedal. I had to loosen the bolts holing the master cylinder to the firewall to make room but yeah, do that then take the pin out of the pedal connecting to the rod and shorten it there. Put the pin back in, re tighten the nuts holding the master on and happy days are yours.

Give the area where it spilt a massive wash with water. It wrecks paint.

Yes. When the boost is increased. Yes to 0.8 mm. I thought we were almost at consensus that drivetrain losses are not are percentage, more of a certain amount of power for each car; ie the same number of kw no matter what the total power. Evil34, is that your car in your avatar? If so do you have any more pics?

Sometimes they are. Mine isn't. It's 2 psi out. I've been too lazy to remove it to take it back.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/f17.html

What do you actually need?

?? Umm what does decking the head or block have to do with the timing belt? Edit: I know what you mean but you didn't explain it very well. It's the distance between the crank gear and the cam gears that different. Do you really think it changes enough to warrant adjusting the the cam gears? I suppose so. You would be adjusting them the same amount as each other though, you would need both gears to be adjustable.

Yeah but it's not fine when you want it to hold a much higher boost than it was originally intended for. Get an adjustable actuator.

No they really work. Massive difference on the track.

Why would you take it to some random non specialist none of us has ever heard of? Take it to an expert.

Double d clutching? It's not a percentage. Just take off about 50-60kw for drivetrain losses.

What boost level are you trying to achieve?

That's why I have tinted my windscreen and all. j/k

The boost is dropping off due to the restrictive exhaust. Mod in this order: 3" cat back exhaust. High flow panel filter in stock airbox. Proper 3" cat. Turbo to cat. Bell mouth dump ok but split is better. ECU upgrade of some sort, lots of possibilities out there, will probably need a boost controller at this stage too. Etc Etc Keep going til your girfriend leaves.

This doesn't make sense to me. If the rod is shorter and nothing else changes then the piston will be lower in the bore at TDC lowering the CR - but not a particularly good way to do it - and it will be the same amount lower in the bore at BDC thus a slight increase in capacity. Why would you use a shorter rod then raise the piston with a lower pin height? You would end up right back where you started. I think you should take the pistons and the heads to your machinist and tell him what CR you want. He can take some meat off the pistons and out of the combustion chambers. I would suggest 8.5-9:1 to make it easier to tune. What boost levels are you planning on?