Abo Bob

It's supposed to go to a boost sensor beside the brake booster. It plugs up underneath it. Cheakc there is one going to there. Also, yes you should never leave these things with nothing on them.

The second time should always be cheaper. I also agree that you did it fairly cheaply the first time. Except for one guy (and no I don't know who) there is always someone who got 10's cheaper but I wouldn't look at an RB25 in a Skyline as my first option if that was my goal. Not saying it's not in the list but not number 1 without serious consideration. With any luck someone we all know might be running 10's with an RB25 soon and without spending much at all!! How's this for a plan. Cheapass R33 S1 auto, valvebody upgrade, big turbo, giggle gas, somebody finish the list for me.

Yeah valve stem seals going is usually evident by what I would call back off blow by. I'd be thinking of rear turbo seal possibly. This happened to me recently. Are you sure it's blue and not black from running rich? (Have to ask. ) Is it definitely coming OUT of the exhaust? I mean, some oil could be dripping ONTO it from somewhere possibly, although you would probably smell it when idling.

Well I went out there and decided not to drive cos my rotors need machining. I decided at about lunch time, however, that I should use the brake pads I already have to machine them. I signed on at 2pm, for which I was charged only $70. I spent about 2/3 of the next hour on the track and then from 3pm all the other cars had gone home so it was just me and Oz tearing it up. We even created our own new track involving bits of the driftland thrown into the mix. Great fun. These are the best days people. Get out there and enjoy.

He can but it's fairly usual for these people to have no money or assetts which is why they were stealing in the first place. This means that suing them would be pointless.

I'll be there.

I spotted a nice white Stagea on Ginninderra Drive just before. I think it was series 2.

Just keep ringing them. I had mine assessed last time in 2 days. The time before was about 3 days.

I moved my trans cooler but I have seen several installs where this was not done.

Sometimes these bigger stallys don't work perfectly out of the box. I would be thinking about tuning it again with a stock converter in it. If the one you have is slipping too much or not locking up properly then your top end will suffer. Speak to Mike before you try this though. He will definitely have a better idea than me. That said, there are plenty of other sensible things being said in thios thread. It's a tough one and hard to know where to start. There are a few simple and cheap/free things mentioned here that you can do first though. I personally don't think that just by replacing the cams and keeping them at 0 can do this if everything was done right. Playing around with adjustable cam gears might get you more power but I really don't think this is where your power went. When I put my poncams in I gained about 30rwkw without even getting it retuned. (Auto) I would also normally expect you to at least make the same power with less boost. Good luck mate.

Good idea.,

About 250 bucks. Yes dave. I'm keen. Oh and it's manual now.

Go the old thread. BTW I did indeed have to replace the diff. It was completely screwed.

Mine has been disconnected for ages.

Probably need cams with that turbo.

You need to do some reading up on the different turbos available to you. 3 weeks ownership is not long enough to understand all you need to make an informed decision. Check out the RB25 turbo upgrade thread at the top of the forced induction section for ideas.

Rebuilt engine with Wiseco forged pistons and Tomei Type B, 260/260 Poncams. Running 8:75:1 compression ratio. Blitz LM intercooler Apexi pod (only because the stock airbox is such a pain to remove and refit all the time, the stock one was no restriction) Nismo 480cc injectors at an occasional 100% R34 GTR fuel pump and regulator GCG highflow turbo CES split dump/front pipe Fujitsubo cat back (quiet one) 3" cat in since compliance Apexi AVC-R PFC That's the power mods. As far as Unigroup are concerned. They really involved me in the process which I liked. Of course you can drop you car off and pick it up 3 days later running perfectly but I like to fiddle and I like to learn. Yavuz (if i spelled his name right) is definitely a perfectionist but he doesn't think you will take his job if he teaches you something. He keeps no secrets.

Haha, there's no way there is another 30rwkw in that turbo without nos. Speaking of which... Adrian?

The boost curve is my fault. I haven't adjusted the actuator enough. I will fix that. As for more boost. I didn't try it but I doubt the turbo has much left in it so I didn't think to bother giving it a go.

They certainly know their stuff. I really enjoyed this one. I learnt a lot and the car is putting out a little more power, very safely, with nice smooth AFR's.

You could also tell us exactly how you plumbed it in. Your post is only one step better than "My car wont start. Why?"

I'll be there for a little while. Gotta pick up my sister from the airport about 10pm.

Who wants a 30 inch cock if no chick will let you f**k em with it.

Get 2rismo to take it down the strip.

Really? I wonder why. I know mine has the fork. I'm sorry I posted without knowing.