Abo Bob

The first problem you will have with R34's is that with the GTT, the auto computer is one unit with the engine computer. In the non turbo models they have separate computers.

For every 1000rpm at 1:1 gearbox ratio, so 3rd gear in an auto or 4th in a manual, with a 4.083 diff (I found the figure, last time was off the top of my head), you do 29.7km/h by my calculations. This is 3370 rpm at 100km/h. With a 4.3 diff it's 28.1 so 3560 rpm at 100km/h. So a drop of nearly 200rpm with the different ratio. I think this is 5.3% out on the speedo so if it shows 105 then it's actually 100 and since it's likely without the diff change to be doing 102-103 when showing 105 already, there's only about 2km/h for you to worry about when Mr Plod looms over the horizon. *It's early in the morning so I may have stuffed something up but it sounds right.

Yeah you do that a little at first. It does wear in a little making it less like a light switch. Do a few big launches, you know, for science.

Probably be there.

Some info: GTT auto diff is 4.089:1, manual is 4.111:1. The difference is unnoticeable. I put the diff centre from an R33 into my GTT and it bolted in perfect. We looked at doing the housing but it didn't look like it would fit, although I think the one we had was a non ABS R33 so perhaps that was the reason. I bolted an R32 GTR diff, housing and all into my GTT. The traction control stopped working but I didn't care. The ABS still works. Scott, if you're still looking, I can ask Dan if he still has my old 4.089 centre lying around. I left it at his place as that's where we did one of the swaps. It single spins when hot but with no turbo this may not matter and would be free. Otherwise, anyone who has put a mechanical centre in an R33 or R34 GTT will have their old worthless centre lying around which you could use.

The power button may increase the line pressure which gives the bands less chance to slip. When it's off the pressure is reduced so the bands grab with less force and slip.

I did it myself at home. I had no previous experience with autos so I found it quite hard but without a book or anything I got it done. Ergo; any old auto trans shop can do it. Just tell them it's a Jatco when enquiring.

What mods have you done to the car?

I've got a braided line that I've been meaning to fit but haven't yet. Was going to do it while my suspension is out being rebuilt in the next few weeks but does it really make the clutch a lot heavier? I was also looking into the Nismo slave to make it lighter as that's all it does that different to stock. Then I thought, I bet we can find a local slave the right size that will do the job. Any ideas? Gotta find the internal diameter of the stock and Nismo ones again. I had the measurements but I lost them.

Yes you need to adjust the rod where it mounts on to the pedal. People do answer in that section. I was just in there.

Loose wheel nuts?

You can have a 1kw difference between between two dyno runs back to back without making any changes and besides, who can notice a 1kw gain. I think they're all the same although I've had more instances of Opticrap being a bad batch and never with Ulteemate.

Yes ring greg at Autosport BEFORE you do the job. He will tell you what to do then you take it to him to get engineered.

That's the way. I would. One day, that would be nice, in the meantime I just try to drive smoothly.

My old GTR diff does that but you can drive around it. Just have to drive better. (I'm not saying I do - just that I can tell the difference between getting a corner right and getting it wrong.)

Go Dan!

So are you telling us you recently had work done on your car and now there is a clunk?

Probably your caster rod bush on one side. Get your head under the car and look at the front end of your caster rods and you will likely see some fluid oozing out of one or both of the bushes.

Justjap have the tie rod.

Excellent. I guess things are working then.

Bump.

3"

What is happening is the bands are slipping. It's the beginning of the end for the box. Mine slipped for ages before I put the shift kit in but it was too late, it blew completely shortly after the kit was fitted so I had to get a full rebuild. All I can suggest is as soon as this starts happening, stop driving the car in the way that makes it do it. Every slip you have is causing damage. For me it was first gear slipping when cold but there are other times it slips for other people as evidenced by this thread. If you get it early enough one would hope that the shift kit and a tightening of the bands will fix it. You could try an ATF with no friction modifiers but this stuff costs more than a shift kit!

Beats walking. Keep us in the loop.

MAD GTR is Oz. Those plates were on his R34 VSpecII now on the R32.