Abo Bob

So is it semi slicks OR cage? Or is it, if you have semi slicks you must have a cage?

8.5:1 is what RB26's run. RB25's run 9:1. It wont be that if you go 20 thou over though. More like 8.6 I think. For your power level the higher the better but it's safer to stay low. What turbo are you using? I'm running 8.75:1 and getting 260 odd rwkw. Generally you need to increase boost by between 0.1 and 0.2 bar for every 0.1:1 drop in CR to maintain the same power.

Freddy Mercury?

There's no pic to click on. It's just text "IPB Image".

Mine is on the same dyno as yours too but I entered my data when we were still testing it so didn't put that into my description.

Vacuum leak most likely. Check all the little hoses for splits or maybe one has come right off. Also check intercooler piping and connectors for leaks. Basically an air leak somewhere in the system. You can often here them when the engine is idling or if you give it a little rev while you head is under your bonnet.

If it's for dragging (and you're going to enjoy trying to get 400rwkw to the ground) then throttle response is less important so bigger piping would not be a hinderance in that respect and can only be better in terms of flow. But... (and I am purely talking out of my arse here).. the restriction of the system is only as much or little as the most restrictive part. In other words, what plenum and throttlebody are you using? Don't bother going any bigger than that. Also I think that changes in restriction aren't helpfull either. Ie, from restrictive afm (for egsample only) to big piping to small throttle body. You might as well have had piping the same size as the smallest one of those 2 in the first place. And finally for general reference; Bar and plate = cooler, tube and fin = flows better. You trade one for the other.

Doesn't appear to be one there according to this.

Yup. And now you know we can fit another 50-60 tyres in your garage.

So fuel goes from, say, surge tank out a hose with a t-piece, one direction goes to the reg and then back to the fuel tank, the other goes to the engine?

Manual R34 is 4.111, auto is 4.083. Diff centres are interchangeable so if R33 GTST diffs really are 4.3 then that would work. Highway fuel economy will suck the higher you go though, actually economy generally.

I'll see what I can find. I may be able to get one.

What about your ABS unit? With no heatshield you are putting heat into the nearby brake lines as well. I have stuffed a couple of those bolts at least but I still have the shield in place with as many bolts as still go in.

I'm thinking it must be the speed conversion thing cos I entered mine as rpm and you entered yours as speed, ya?

Vacuum doesn't travel as quickly as electricity though.

i want to wash my own car but I'm not allowed to use a hose. Yes Vic - buckets. They suck. I normally use a trigger attachment on the hose but not so sure about doing that here.

I can't seem to find one around the south area so far. I don't want someone else to wash it but that's all I see. Just need a place with water spray and stuff. I'm even intending to bring my own sponge.

Hey Bass. How come ours don't match up any more?

Ahh so maybe that's it, a delay in the image being available so the browser assumes it's not coming and displays without the image. Is there a setting somewhere on SAU or our browsers where we can give it longer to download? I just started a thread with I think 5 pics all hosted in the same place (not here) and when I went beack to the thread to check for replies one of the pics was missing. And then I went back there in the middle of typing this and everything is displaying correctly.

Lollipops and nursery rhymes... well ok, it's made from plasterboard and has timber joists and studs. The rack is only attached where there is a wood backing behind the plasterboard which is why it looks there is one bit missing (where I am hanging from it); ie there isn't a stud behind that part.

With much help from Jess and Andrew - until Steve came to take Andrew to the dyno day - a tyre rack has been built, tested and proved functional at my new place. It was always going to be hard downsizing garages by moving house and I was really struggling for room. Thanks Jess! Step 1. The tyres are in 2 stacks in front of those shelves on the right. Step 2. It looks like it works... Step 3. Testing. Step 4. Rack 'em. Step 5. Make use of extra space by putting car in garage! All up cost about $150 including 3 new drill bits (about $30 there) which I can obviously keep for future use.

Somehow double posted. see below.

I'm told that all you do is heat the snorkle with a heat gun then bend it to shape.

I have about that power with that turbo and Tomei Type B (260/260) Poncams. My turbo is R34, and I think you need the bigger R34/VG30 rear housing to get there.

Only on posts in my areas.