believer

I am using Motec M150. I am not working on the car myself actually. My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs. In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one. But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as. It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still. That was when I had a clutch. Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed. Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom. Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.

Hi guys, Sorry to butt in and take it slightly off course, although still on the VCAM subject. I had VCAM put into my Tomei 2.8 bottom end and I struggle to take off because the engine has very little torque caused by VERY low dynamic compression at 60psi. But once off the mark and especially on boost, the engine rev happily all the way to 8000rpm and makes 630hp at 20psi of boost on E85 at the rear hubs. Has anyone had any similar experience or any suggestions on what might cause this low compression at low rpm? I am in the process of converting it into a 8hp transmission and with this low torque, the engine would not even stay running until the throttle is opened to more than 30% and then I loose all vacuum.

Hi guy. My front wheel knuckle broke on me just before I hit the track. It’s where the tie rod bolts onto the knuckle. I do have bump steer rose joint tie rod ends but I didn’t hit anything and I do not climb ripple strips on the track, it snapped off when I was doing a three point turn in the carpark. Has anyone had the same experience? This is my second one in two years but in the other side. The car has extremely low kms and it’s only tracked 3-4 times a year. Any thought??

Thank you Joshuaho96 ! You're a Champion. 😃

Haha! I guess you are the goto guy if I ever want any parts for the car? 😅

Thank you Shoota_77. Did the replacement fix your problem? I have ordered one already. Just covering my basis, in case it might be something a bit more cynical.

Thank you.

Well, I checked all the fuses in the fuses box and they were all good. I swapped the A/C relay with a known good relay and the climate control unit was still dead. I have not checked the back the climate control unit with a multimeter for power as I do not know which terminal/wire should have power when it’s supposed to.

Hi Guys! I'm having problem with my climate control unit, it died all of a sudden. Checked the fuses and relays. The buttons light up with the headlights but nothing on the display nor any of the functions work, including the re-circulation and rear defrost. I have noticed another post from a few years ago on the same topic but there was no solution mentioned. Any other ideas? Any help would really be appreciated! Thanks!!

I am having the same issue. Did you find the problem?

Thanks for all the replies. How hard is it to get to the TX valve and the temperature sensor on the core?

Hi Guys Has anyone come across this problem with the aircon air flow slowing down to almost no air coming out of the vents after the aircon has been running for about an hour? The air flow will return if you turn off the AC for maybe 15-20 minutes If you run the AC again, the air flow will slow down again after a few minutes. Cheers.

Hi guys, Does anyone know the dimensions of the OE wheel studs on a R33 GTR please? Cheers.

My 34 GTT won't start after removing the head and replaced head gasket. The spark is really weak, it has brand new splitfire coils and new plugs as well. Any suggestion please!

Is that for one run or will that be 3 to 4 runs to get the best one? So $60 including barby is not bad then!

What do you normally pay for a power run Flaps?

I think one of the owners, Tom. He had apparently been trained in HKS Japan to tune all the FCONs including FCON V Pro.

Heard that BD4's at Gladesville (not east or west or north, central I guess) had recently upgrade their Dynojet to run the latest Winpep 7 and the Dynojet is arguably the most accurate dyno in the world. All they use in the US is Dynojet, must say something. Friend of mine got his 33 GTST tuned last week and got 210kW at the rubber, only running 0.75 bar of boost on Optimax with EVC, HKS FCON V and HKS FMIC, HKS powerflow and exhaust and everything else standard. I guess that was quite all right. Only got charged $220 for tuning the HKS FCON, took about 3 hours.

So Series 2 have the blue highlights? i thought the face lift in 97 was the only change in series and that's when they changed from blue to pink seats, xenon lights, thicker front lip, etc.

Pardon my lack of knowledge, what year model would a series three be? I have a 98 V Spec but never knew if it is a series 3 or 2.

Hi TG, How much are you willing to spend. I have two brand new sets, I can sell you one if the price is right. Tom.

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Forgot to mention, it is a V Spec!

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Very Rare (1 of only 255 built) 1998 model, last of the R33 range White Striaght Immaculate condition Complied and registered Stock standard, except lowered with HKS Sports springs Only city driven, not track or raced 64,000kms Quiktrac installed with 3 point immobilser Nismo 3 piece 17" wheels or standard GTR33 wheels A$68,000 ono Serious buyers only please! (had trouble attaching image, please PM me if you want pics)