Jeremy1607

How much would I be looking at for the GT-RS turbo kit fully installed and including all those other parts then ? Just roughly ? Thanks !

Haha you mean,I should do research on my own regarding the GTRS bolton kit ? Okay,will do.

Yeah,I understand.What's a GTRS bolt on kit and where can I find more information about it ? And is nitrous oxide even legal to use on a car ? Maybe I should for the Nistune first then (to make around 200kWs) ?

Haha yeah I know,that means if I want anything more powerful than 200kWs.I need to go for a bigger turbo ? I'm running 11PSI at the moment. Are there any other ways to make more power with the stock turbo or 200kWs and that's it ?

Which colour is better for an R34 ? Silver or Black ?

Okay,thanks.I will look around again and find out more information. Do any of you know what's the maximum power you could get from the stock turbo ? I want it to be as powerful as possible but at the same time I want to keep it safe for the engine (like if you run 16-18PSI on the stock turbo,the engine block can't handle it and it could blow up) and good fuel efficiency.

Hi,I've a 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T with an automatic transmission.I'm looking to modify it,I've been doing alot of research and spoke to a couple Japanese Imports Specialist like C-Red and Imports 101 here in Perth.They told me because my car is an automatic,the stock ECU is a little more restrictive compared to the manual one.Recently,I've been looking at Nistune.C-Red told me that they wouldn't recommend it for an R34,and likely to have problems with tuning in the long run,it's better to go for a piggyback ECU like Haltech or something which would cost around $2,000 to $3,000 mark.On the other hand,Imports 101 told me that the Nistune is quite reliable and alot cheaper compared to the piggyback (only around $1,200 fitted and tuned).It's true that you could have problems with it in the long run but very rare or unlikely.At the moment I have podfilter,catback exhaust and a front mount intercooler and I'm running 11PSI boost,they told me if I want to stick with the stock turbo,you could be looking at around 200kWs at the wheels. What do you guys suggest ? Should I look for brands like Motec,Apex'i or something ? Thanks

Hey Scott, Just wanted to let you know that after spending 1 hour looking the fuse box,I finally found it haha,hard work. The interior light fuse is located at the very bottom,exactly next to the accelerator pedal. Also the interior light fuse is the third one on the left hand side. Attached are the picture,it says "inside light" Hope this helps.

Hey Scott, Me too,I'm having the same problem.I was just changing the interior lights and all of a sudden,it made like a spark noise "chck" Can anyone please help us ?

Sorry but what's R & R ?

Nope,haven't been to the dyno yet.Well,that's what the previous seller told me but anyways. Yeah I did try turning off the traction control but still no luck.Maybe you're right the automatic gearbox isn't as responsive as a manual. What do you mean by "they hit r and r really bad when they see unexpected airflow" ? I'm running the stock wheels,225/45 ZR17 for both front and rear. How about you "jrm" ? Is your car manual or automatic too ? What do you mean "and when you do,it immediately cuts the second butterfly and kills the fun" ? Lol,sorry I don't get it.

Hi,I have a 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T with automatic transmission. It has podfilter,front mount intercooler and turbo running at 11PSI.It probably makes around 190kWs-200kWs at the wheels. Just curious,how come I find it very hard to do wheel spin or burnout ? Say from a dead stop,I floor or push the accelerator all the way down and no wheel spin at all ? Is it because of the traction control is on or not enough power to make the rear wheels spin ? Thanks !

One more things,a couple weeks ago I had Autosparks to install my HID kit. When it's done,I noticed that all the wiring is completely different,now with rubber thingy,different cable and etc. But I noticed the right headlight wire that connects to the end of the bulbs is loose.Sometimes the right headlight would turn on,but then if I go through speed bumps or bumpy roads, the next time I turn it on,it wouldn't light sup,do you have any idea to fix it ? Or should I just go back to the workshop who changed all my wiring and things ? Because it wasn't like this before they changed it.

They also said that I will need boost valve bleed or something for $130 fitted or a good controller for $750 fitted ? Altogether you'd be looking for $2,000.00 ?

Yeah,I asked Imports 101 and they said they'd charge $1,500.00 for the Nistune,fitted,tuned and tested ? How come it's expensive compared to other workshop ? Also regarding lowering the car with king springs,here in Perth Ian Diffen or Tech 9 Tyres can do them for $500 fitted but Imports 101 said they can do it for $750 fitted ? Is it good service or a rip off ? Where did you do yours ? Thanks.

Okay,I'll check it out.Thanks.

Is it gonna make a big difference in power,torque,top speed and acceleration ? Or just a little bit ?

What will the NISTUNE do to my car exactly ? Sorry I'm not really familiar with this kind of things as I never had a turbocharged car before lol.

Price dropped,$350 posted ? Or $300 for Perth buyers.Anyone interested ?

I just found out today because my car is an automatic,it'd cost around $3,500.00 to remap or install the new piggyback ECU or something ? Not really sure.

$400 posted,anyone ??

Anyone interested in buying these for $500 posted (anywhere in Australia) ?

Sorry if I take ages to reply,here you go.

It's also still in a good condition,slightly light scratches. Maybe the condition is 4 out of 5.

Okay,I'll see what I can do. And would you be able to tell me how to change the headlight bulbs ? I can open it and get the bulbs out but what I'm not sure is how to disconnect the 2 cables attached to the base. Thanks