danh

well thats weird, compliancing is the process of making a car roadworthy, and defects are issued when a car is unroadworthy. well my mate just got a defect for a non standard front & rear bumper, amongst other things... sounds like more double standards with aussie road rules

hey, just had a look on the apexi website and read the caution for their turbo timer. apparently it wont work on a BNR32 GTR and a couple of other nissans because they use a titanium type O2 sensor click product documentation: http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electroni...d=198&pageNum=1 just wondering if this is the case, and if anyone has this installed in their R32 GTR?? or what TT i can use on a R32 GTR? cheers Dan

sweet! cheers DIRTgarage

thanks steveL, i thought they might be. anyone have a clue about the right box?

hey, just wondering what the heck these are! the 3 metal boxes bolted to the underside of the parcel shelf... cheers dan

yeh i'm hoping the caliper rebuild will fix it too... as always, will let ya'll know when its done....!

my guess at what that means is: -your HID's are setup to run from the exsisting headlight wiring harness -they apparently need more power from their own dedicated 'harness', ie fatter wires with connection straight to chassis for ground and battery for power. however if you just run new fat wires to battery for positive power and to chassis or negative battery terminal the HIDs will always have power, and always be on until battery goes dead. so you need a switch to turn the HIDs on and off! so we use the original light switch in the car! and the original wires that power the stock light bulbs to switch a relay to turn on the HIDs. my guess is that there is a positive power wire and a negative ground wire that power the lights. with the stock lights, when you turn on the lights from inside the car that switches a relay which inturn will allow positive or regative power to run through the circuit. ie it is setup either to cut pos. or neg. power wires. you need to find out which it cuts out with a multimeter. (actually this may not be nescessary) whichever one it cuts out, this becomes the 'trigger' wire. because when u switch the lights on and off inside car, this wire 'gets' or 'loses' power. while the other is unaffected, and will either have constant pos. power, or constant neg. ground. how a basic relay works is like a switch, but you flick the switch with another electric circuit instead of by hand. it sits in the middle of a circuit, ie cut a wire and hook up the two ends to the relay, and doesnt allow the power to go through the wire unless another circuit, also hooked up to the relay is turned on, thus switching the relay and allowing power to go through the first circuit. wat u do is, you cut your new fat power or neg wire for HIDs and hook that up to the in and out of one circuit of the relay. so they are constantly OFF ie not allowed to work. then you use the pos. and neg. that your stock headlights use, and they get hooked up to the other in and out of the other circuit on the relay. how this works is when you flick the switch in the car to turn the lights on, the power goes through the original light wires and through the relay and switches the new fat power or neg wire in the other circuit of the relay, and allows power to go to the HID's turning them on. i hope you can understand this and it helps and is actually correct, dan

that was my favourate feature of the old forum! pls bring it back?! all in all, well done on the move, im sure all you moderators are working your fingers off getting it tweaked and sorted! congrats and thanks for the hard work, i know i would be very stuck without these forums dan

me either, and ive got a long way to go!

amen

yeh thats the thing, it came with these teins from the dealer... its ok, its in the shop now, its gonna get worked! new rotors, pads, caliper rebuild, braided lines, fluid etc, all round. new daikin HD clutch and all bits and pieces that go with it. new bilsteins etc (not 100% sure what will need to be done here yet) full check over and service. all in all its gonna be an expensive exercise, but most definately worth it. hopefully i'll just forward the bill onto the dealership... (doubt that will work though) dan

good point! but no cant be that, its got stockers..

yeh thats the thing, it was a cracking noise like opening a old creaky door but a metallic sound not wooden. anyone come across this before???

i want cheaper ones! anyoneeeeeeee???

im guessing that means yeh theyre fooked? and im fooked because its not cheap to rebuild?

no its a tight bang, its a metallic sound, but not tinny, very solid. and can be pinpointed side from side if i go over a bump or ditch with only the one side then the noise comes from that side(obviously)... if fate decides a rebuild, would it be cheaper to just get bilsteins? and any suggestions where to get tein's rebuilt in sydney (or australia!) thanks dan

what about market city underground, is that any safer??

hello, yes more problems with the R32 GTR!!! last night driving around, stopped at a set of lights no harder than normal 50-0 with light braking to bring car to a stand still. anyway, i was stopped next to a concrete wall to my left ie about 1.5m from side of car. anyway, i pressed down on the brake pedal from where i had it to hold car still, basically to the floor and there was this loud creaking sound coming from the front left brake as i pressed the pedal down and released it. the concrete wall allowed me to hear it from the drivers seat with windows down very very easily. i'm not sure if it was coming from the other brakes and haven't had a chance to check it out, but it sounded like the caliper was pushing so hard on the disc rotor that it was bending the front and rear of it together, assuming the rotors are ventilated? i cant remember will have to check. they are the stock cross drilled ones though. any ideas anyone? i'm guessing new pads, rotors and caliper rebuild is on the cards, right? and probably stainless lines, new fluid and whats this i keep hearing about stainless master lines or whatever? well since i'm here, any suggestions for brake workshops in syd?? cheers guys Dan

hey all, my new r32 gtr has tein coilovers, not sure what model, but there is the most frustratingly loud banging noise from the rear over every bump! i have never had coilovers before and these came with the car so i dont know what to expect, the car is not excessively lowered, guards are about 2inches off the rubber (i imagine its set to stock ride height). there appear to be no other suspension mods. but this deep banging/bumping noise is worrying me, i have only had the car 1 day and the clutch has died so i havent had a chance to try and diagnose the problem. any suggestions/thoughts would be great cheers dan btw im 99% sure its the teins everything in boot (spacesaver and tools etc) is secured pretty well

yes i had a quick read about those, im very interested! but need to save some mulah as my clutch kinda died last night and slips from 2k rpm and that needs replacing first. just curious duncan, do you have any suggestions for clutch work in syd? PM me if you wish..

ok awesome will do! im guessing you had the clutch posted up to you, just wondering what did that cost?

ok cheers mate

hey manage, what about full clutch assembly?

what does the stage one clutch entail?

wow theyre expensive! are there cheapies around anywhere??