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abr33

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Everything posted by abr33

  1. abr33
    Sorry for the late reply guys. So basically when I put the kelfords in I still had the lifters bleeding off. Then I started by taking off my relocation kit, no help. Then I took off the oil cooler off and my oil pressure dropped to 40 from 70. So I had a massive restriction.Luckily I have a tomie pump so I bumped it up to about 90-100 at 8k and problem gone. thinking that it was just the oil pressure I put camtechs back in. To save doing a full retune. Aaaaand it bled them all out again. So back in with the kelfords, tuned, and iv been giving it a hard time for a thousand kms and its been doing well. Before you rip out your oil cooler consider that I have 2.5 thou bearing clearance and 15/50 motul 300v. The thing that im lucky with is that I never spun a bearing with low bearing oil pressure. Whilst the camtechs dont work for me, I wont take anything away from them. Malcolm has been very supportive and helpful. He is also refunding me for the cams. Now who can recommend a cooler plate that will run -10 lines?
  2. abr33
    So I have updates here. I eventually found an oil supply problem. It was the HEL oil cooler. something in it was restrictive as hell. Lost 20 psi oil by removing it. So I bumped the pressure up. Now im running almost 100psi at 8k. So still no help on lifters. Bit the bullet and bought a set of custom kelfords. 262/272 x9.35 and my problem is gone. I have no idea but they seem to have solved it. Now I need big lines on my cooler.
  3. abr33
    Hey guys thanks for the replies. Basically I had specs for the wrong inlet cam. mine was custom made. So I dialled it in perfect (<0.02mm) and comp test was about 160 psi. Once I retarded my inlet 15 degrees and it was correct haha. Worked well. 600nm to redline and 400kw. It was never going to work with the old specs.
  4. abr33
    Vernier gears. Vct still there. All within 0.02mm
  5. abr33
    Efr7670 comp was about 150 on poncams. Nothing else changed. Couldn't stop knock. Took 7 degrees out of it. Dialed up right at 165 put now will try tune it. Keep in mind 98 octane and went 420 to 350kw.
  6. abr33
    Cam dial in Hey all, bit of a brains trust question here. I have kelford cams that I have dialled in exactly to the specs I'm given, and my cold compression test is 170 psi. Was 145 with poncams. This extra pressure makes it impossible to tune. I have dialled them in to within 0.02mm of correct lift at 1mm degree point. At a loss as to why pressure is so crazy high. I'm thinking too much intake advance but it's perfect. Brainstorm please
  7. abr33
    I have a warning light for oil under 30 pound. Never comes on. I can log oil but it's not connected to the haltech. However after 5 years you would think I'd have more dramas if I was running out of oil
  8. abr33
    And the reason I'm lead to look away from lifter capability is the fact these are a drop in cam and spring package
  9. abr33
    Thanks for the input guys. Iv measured the bearing journals, they are within 0.02mm of factory cams. I can't really change oils as the bottoms got clearances for that thickness. The lifters are ok, and the second set I tried have identical problems. I'm really thinking stuff it ill put solids in and get cams redone for solids. It's not worth pulling apart another 5 times to work it out in the meantime. I guess I was hoping someone would say 'Oh that happened to me and this was the fix' wishful right ?
  10. abr33
    Yeah gauge is good mate, not using factory one. Oil supply was a thought but at idle and low rpm lifters pump back up. Which kinda breaks the supply theory
  11. abr33
    I don't think neo lifters fit plus you need a different ramp on the cam for solids. I already have 15/50 oil can't go heavier with my setup. I'm like the ideas but keep them coming
  12. abr33
    Thanks guys, it's the springs that came as part of the package with cams from camtech
  13. abr33
    RB25 lifters bleeding off cannot solve! Hi guys, iv got a brain teaser for you all. Firstly, overview. I have a built 25 in my 33 running tomei pump 2x 1.3mm restrictors etc etc. Ran 4 years problem free. many track days, lots of spirited driving and so on. Then I decided 22 pound wasnt enough so i put in 85lb supertech springs with TI retainers and camtech 272 9mm lift cams. (a 'drop in cam') From there on I instantly had troubles with lifters. originally dropping one or 2 in and out and in no time i was losing all lifter pressure and it sounds exactly like first start up on a new set of lifters. This is all however at high RPM. Anything under 3k is perfectly fine. but one big rev and I lose all pressure and it takes about 5-10 mins idling around to recover. And i guarantee its the lifters. Heres what iv done so far, bumped oil pressure from 65 to 85 pound. Zero change. Replaced all lifters with genuine low km ones i have spare. Zero change. Checked cam type with camtech, all good. checked spring heights, all good. Checked lifter doesn't go past the gallery. all good. Camtech have suggested its the vct bleeding off pressure, it cant be as its got its own feed. We have no idea what is going on. All ideas welcome! Anyone got a similar story or a fix?
  14. abr33
    Yeah iv checked it all, and made a big 35 square cable for engine earth too I cant unplug it or it dies lol. needs the reading to go into zero throttle idle map. Ill have a play later in the week when I get a chance lol
  15. abr33
    I have swapped the alternator to one with half the kms, and no welding for a long time before this began. It literally happened after being parked for 5 days. I have run wires directly from ecu to sensor to no resolve. Im thinking of going straight from the ground on the sensor to the negative terminal on battery to rule out poor earth feed? An GTSBoy, the tps is also brand new haha originally it was my only issue. Itd just lose the zero setting and try to idle out of the base map
  16. abr33
    Thanks for the reply, the feed is stable with ignition but not whilst engine is running. Hot and cold doesnt matter basically the same thing. Only its worse under 70 degrees because its fluctuating cold start curcuit. I cant disconnect it as its resistance based, if I unplug it it goes to -60 or something, which instantly kills the engine. Im going to try earth the sensor to battery but not sure if that will work.
  17. abr33
    Hi all, been a while since iv posted here. In a nutshell im running a haltech e11v2 piggybacked onto the stock ecu (was to run auto) and basically something is giving noise to the ecu via the temp sensor, it can vary up to 30 degrees cycling as often as every half second or so. This causes big idle problems from shutting off to blowing smoke etc. Iv tried running both the wires separately (not both at the same time) to the ecu and the noise is still there. Iv not been able to find anything out there with anyone having the same problem. Iv also tried a different sensor. The feed is getting 4.88V and the other is shared ground with the tps. That of which also gives me problems time to time. The noise is only there whilst engine is going and its not relative fluctuations to RPM. Any pointers would be appreciated! cheers.
  18. abr33
    Im running a greddy 50mm gate, with turbosmart e-boost street 40.?
  19. abr33
    no, what I was told by reputable engine machinist. Max pressure should be at the point of max torque, so give or take a bit.
  20. abr33
    Should see about 60-80 psi @ 5k-redline
  21. abr33
    My question is, whats a solution to having a fairly low gate pressure and still hold high? I mean, I have a low boost setting (14psi) makes about 300 or so kw, great for track. If I put a heavy spring in im not keen on 360++ low boost, which is more than enough on the track I think. But the trade is it'll hopefully pull 400 with ease. I run a greddy 50mm gate and eboost street. The t04z used to hold 22 solid. I assume this has alot to do with heavy rotating turbo and massive capacity.
  22. abr33
    14 would be at about 3500 ish. 3000 makes 10. There is no boost leaks, and the exhaust is 3.5 inch. Its the gate spring being 12 pound. Cant take it. To drive? its a bloody animal. You can pump the throttle it goes from vacuum to 24psi in about half a second! When I had the t04z, I could hold it spinning in whatever gear and just constant throttle, with the efr it just wants limiter all the time with any throttle. I need to put a heavier spring in, and wire ebc to the rpm output so I can have varied gain. Cant have it too harsh coming on boost or we have to pull too much timing. But more up top where it needs to hold harder. The ramp is awesome, by that, at 4k there is 135kw, and at 4700 there is over 280.
  23. abr33
    No I didnt get that printed off unfortunately. 24 at 4600, about 22 at 5500 and by 6500 under 20. It was making great power. Low boost is 16, makes 330kw, 4 psi more for 380. About 15kw/psi. 24 would have to be at the 420. Im not really after more. 380 is a lot. Lights p-zero's at 120 in 3rd
  24. abr33
    I got my car retuned again today, with 3.5 exhaust, although not that good, because I didnt end up with the right gate spring. So the 7670 on 25 with 256 cams and appropriate bottom end made 380kw @ 6750 rpm. And about 560nm torque at 4500ish. I fixed a few air leaks and boost is better but still takes 4600 revs to make 24. The boost was falling over to 20psi from 24, so it should shit 420 if it had held it. All this is on 98 vortex and 600cc/min WMI. So we still wait to lean on it hard. Just as a slight update.
  25. abr33
    The direct clutch is good, I have one in mine, they are hard to get used to, but solid as. Takes about 2000kms or maybe only a few hundred in the city to bed in and not bite so much
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