abr33

And when your window is open, at low speed when it starts to come on boost it sounds like a natro, everytime a valve opens you can hear it, just.

I can confirm its the resonation as the top is very light, as Scotty said

Mine slowly adjusted itself to an over centre when open, but I put an open adjustment bolt in it so I cant set it.

I have one, its good if your driving around town, where you dont need to be up it, plus it takes mine from 99db to 78 for memory. There is no way you could make an exhaust that will flow 400+ kw and be under 80db. These are good and stop negative attention when its not needed. Sure you cant make power with it shut but who needs full power and silence? if your up a high power car its not the exhaust thats going to be an issue on its own.

Bit of a thread bump but has anyone had a shaft made for r33 gtst without vibration? I tried for a year working with spicer to no avail. Any info appreciated.

I got most of my parts a few years ago imported from states for less than half what we pay here

I have fed in 680cc at as little as 4 psi with mine when I was setting it up, never misfired or even hesitated

It says on the bottle it offers excellent corrosion resistance in all metals except magnesium, or is it a bit twisted? I was considering going this way, maybe adding corrosion inhibitor will be helpful?

Pure demineralised water and redline water wetter? On my 25, I have a cheap 50mm radiator, here where the temperature has been literally 46 degrees, I run a gktech fan, 2 thermos on radiator, one on oil cooler and water has never gone over 90 on the road yet. Even with aircon flat out. I run 50/50 castrol coolant and water wetter. Will try just water and wetter next. Not sure if its been said but how healthy is your water pump?

Is there any uprated units for r33 gtst?

Have you pulled the cam caps off to check? Sounds odd they are worn. They usually pick up or 'gall' which happens alot if caps not correctly tensioned. Get some internal micrometers on them and cam and check clearance.

If its anything to compare against flow/pressure/power the 7670 made 320kw at 14 psi

Iv bled it a couple of times, dont seem to get much air out, if its hot enough to boil, why not fit a pump to keep it cool? Or is too cool bad?

Hi all, Iv been looking around, and cant seem to find anyone having done this. My concern is, when I shut the car off, after a minute I can hear water start to bubble, not like sizzle at all but just pop away slowly. It did it with the garrett and with the new efr. The lines come from factory points, are free from blockage etc. Im wondering if a small transfer pump hooked into the line would be of benefit, to get more water going faster. Or if its not worth worrying about. So has anyone heard of it being done? What pump would work? Is it a problem? - more to the point of getting air in the system. Thoughts?

Any good place will fix their caused issues. Provided they dont blame the car

Also the pumps dont like running straight methanol for extended periods of time. And yes id be scared to have 15L of methanol in the boot. I havent yet tried burning the 50/50 mix though. Methanol in confined space, with battery and relays etc etc is a recipe for a bad time

Haha, I will mix by volume id imagine? I always bought it as it was simple and easy

Who here mixes their own water meth? How are you doing it? Iv been using boost juice, but apparently theres a shortage of it, plus iv roughly worked out I can make 3 times as much for the money should I buy the stuff myself. What I understand is I need >99.5% pure methanol like VP fuels straight methanol? - http://www.vpracing.com.au/meth.htm And I need demineralised water. Mix them at 50% each and presto. Just wont be pink. - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Austech-Demineralised-Water-5-Litre.aspx?pid=102799#Combo Is there any down sides to doing it like this?

Pretty sure its bf, what ever was the newest in early 2011 late 2010

The one I have is 3 in 3 out

As iv said earlier a bf xr6t will have your rb running euro3 standard. The substrate is about 120mm diameter and 300 long. They work very well. Cost me 100 bucks. On a side note iv got a xforce 3.5" s/s cat coming. Apparently they are the go

And no timing change. I was using wmi on the 98 only map so temps should have been down anyway

Don't know wolverine, I use low boost 280kw usually On track but did use high on main straight most laps. Cant tell exactly when it started to fail though.

No idea, Im near positive it died at last track day though. Hot day, all running fairly hot, full boost regularly

It was a magnaflow 100 cell 4 inch body cat, the cells were all folding over. I know its not top line but they are very popular. Would be keen to know of a proven one that can flow 400kw and not die.. Thought id post the brand up, not defaming, just stating my encounter