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abr33

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Everything posted by abr33

  1. Keep auto's strength in mind, mine shat itself 2000kms into having 260rwkw. Box had 140,000 on it and low oil though.. I was going to get a c4 built to handle massive power, but at 5k plus stally, manual was the best option
  2. Use something to put in plug hole to see where the top is, like a bit of nylon or carefully with a screwdriver, rock engine back n forth till you establish where tdc is, then compare to your cover marks
  3. Maybe it had been tuned in RWD or on hub dyno hense giving a bit higher reading? Plus different dynos read differently
  4. Could you not put a nistune chip in the mines computer?
  5. Anyone using redline with ethanol? Its rated to handle up to e85 now
  6. Not real sure, Id imagine so, surely someone here has screwed a heap of power outta one
  7. After seeing your other thread, maybe you just need an rb30et? dont worry about the head if your just after torque
  8. Dyno results thread! Why go to the expense? a stock 25 will shit 350 hp with good ecu, turbo and exhaust and intercooler
  9. Also what does everyone do for throttle cable? the outter cables too short and inner too long
  10. Ok, so started fitting it, finally. going to tap into it for the map, and booster so to reduce the length of lines. The carbon can lines can go to existing fittings on plenum. Got a question, where the fast idle valve connects to plenum underneath in same place as stock one does, can I tee the aac remote line into the fast idle valve hose without issues? Couldnt see it harming idle.
  11. Bugger having to switch maps or anything. Anything with content sensor like haltech platinum pro then it dont matter if you mix 98 and e85 in any combination. Do it once properly and you'll never regret it
  12. Its bad to downshift hard on a stock auto, it does damage to the fins in the converter.
  13. Now that you mention it, that might be the case. Will investigate. On a similar topic why does my car stall after first start particularly when cold?
  14. Mine holds heaps of pressure and I have carbon canister still?
  15. Definately a plasmaman. just has 3 1/8 bsp holes near t/b and 1 3/8 bsp toward back for aac valve. Might tap 1 in middle for map and plumb booster into aac line
  16. Thanks kitto, ill have to tap fittings in at appropriate places.... id think the carbon canister tube off stock t/b goes to engine side as it'd actuate the diaphram in canister to suck on vacuum/close on boost?
  17. Also thinking about tapping into back of it for brake booster. Theres only 3 little fittings for attachment underneath. Ideas??
  18. you drill the threads out i believe, make sure you tape over runner holes
  19. Hi all, got a few queries with the instal of my plasmaman, Firstly, I think I have a fairly old one, I got in second hand with t/b, reason I think that is it has an adapter place for aac valve instead of it bolting to side of plenum. What I need to know is where to plumb things basically. I run a haltech map sensor, To shorten the feed hose length should I tap into engine side of plenum half way up? Where do I run the little hose that goes to the carbon canister from stock t/b? Where do I plumb my pcv into? Where do i get pcv from rb26 covers? Im sure theres more ill think of but this is the main bits. Couldnt find much on the forums about these... Thanks
  20. Yep, When I plumb heat exchanger back in ill see if it helps. It also takes 15 mins to get out over 60. Taken at bottom of sump too.
  21. Im not sure blocking it is a great idea, though im not sure. I currently use a bypass hose
  22. Yeah, when I fit my plazmaman ill refit the heat transfer. Its just a bit too cold in winter. hope its not an adverse choice on summer trackdays though
  23. 70 degree HEL thermostat, I have 7.5L sump but dont run water through the heat transfer on oil filter thing
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