wedge_r34gtr

If your talking about the plug near the twin turbo pipes yes it should be plugged in. Its either one of your AFM plugs or o2 sensors plugs. If one of Your AFMS isn't plugged in, then this would explain your preiodic boost. A little bit of oil residue in your pipes is normal - any running/pooling oil isn't and is a sign your turbos seals are shagged.

Amen brother!

Your plugs should not have clogged themselves up that quick. I suggest you give a jez a ring to run some diagonistics. O2 sensor voltage can be checked with the afore mentioned diagnostics or pull em out and if there fouled like your plugs then there Probarly stuffed.

now i see why you need your bonnet painted lol

The dumps were my actually my choice - and they have been modified somewhat though. But they were selected when i was intially building a -9 setup. I will keep what you said in mind if i feel there is a restriction on the system. The manifolds are not standard r34. There R34 N1 - there about halfway between expremes and normals in terms of size. You don't want to go too big with manifolds as it will hurt gas velocity. Bigger manifolds will give you a better top-end (ability to handle larger flow volume), smaller will give you better spool time (higher intial gas velocity) - so in my view, N1's are the best comprimise, but we'll see once it gets a tune.

LOL that happens. keep an eye on the plugs. if it happens again, then the original issue hasn't been solved.

Yep fouled plugs will give you a nice miss as you come on boost. i'd be asking y did they foul too! you may be running rich down low - i.e. time for new o2 sensors.

Don't want to modify the stock rail to get my larger bore injectors in - so i'm ordering a 11mm billet rail. Just wanted to know if the stock regulator can be removed so i can reuse it or if i had to get a new one. Been in the middle of butt f*ck know where atm, i can't just go look at the car to find out ...

Anyone know anything about stock fuel rails? more inportantly, can the stock regulator be removed from a stock GTR rail?

I used that shell oil you get in the red container...the one you see at servo's all the time - for my run in. ~$40bucks for 10L, you can't really go wrong. Diesel oil would be fine, but the extra detergents wouldn't really be doing anything as the engine should already be sqeaky clean!!!! Keen to see the results for this (re)build!

Oh yeah - jarad's organizing a cruise for next month (events section) if you want to meet some of the newe crowd. Or say hello in the sau_Newcastle topic

Dvsjez on the central coast. The only tuning shop in Newcastle that ever had anything remotely to do with skylines shut up shop a few months back.

BP tried in the new mexico gulf...it didn't work out real well either.

I've circled the location of the stock boost control solinoid thingy. Mine had been replaced by the Greedy EBC controller, so it wont look exactly like pictured. From memory one of the lines runs back to the MFD. The other should run to somewhere along your intake (can't remember exactly) if you follow this, than your boost leak is most likely after this point...

if a hose pops off it will idle fine (i.e. it only needs atmo pressure air to run) Turbo will spool because its the exhaust that drives them, not the entering air. do you have an electonic boost controller?

i got a better idea. 1. Catch cat 2. attach microfibre boots to cat's paws 3. let cat go 4. Pour liquid polish on bonnet each night 5. Cat polishes your bonnet while you sleep Win Win :-)

It could be a number of things 1ST thing is - don't keep on testing it. 2nd thing - check all your intake hoses again - particularly the intercooler hoses - you may just have had a hose blow off If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, i suggest giving DVSJEZ a call to run some diagonsitics.

Mike, The OP will be limited to 'normal' GTR's and Vspecs (1999 year model - only ones that will be >15yrs old). - But your right, once the vspec2 etc hit the canadian market in 2016/2017, they will probarly see a similar differentation in prices on the 2nd hand market that we see in Australia.

Nice beamer. I didn't know they made convertable m3's Right'o - colours - There were specific GTR colours and they were different colours avalible between Series 1 and Series 2. Nissan never released info on specifc production numbers in terms of colours, but Mid Night Purple 2 & 3 are the lease common with <300 made of each. Info on paint codes: http://www.skylinesa...an-paint-codes/ V-spec vs normal GTR - The differences have been discussed alot and it's really up to you whether you beleive the extra money is worth it. IMHO your better off getting a well looked after normal GTR rather then getting a rusty vspec. Vspec's don't come with a g-meter. This is the Nismo MFD that can bought seperatly - only UK cars came with this standard. Heres the list: http://www.skylinesa...vspec-vspec-ii/ Browsing auctions - Contact a decent importer with GTR experince to look for you (e.g. Iron Chef) - It's silly to buy a GTR without someone knowledgable to look over it.

I can't tell where to park in the shell servo...kidding looks great but won't be attending as its a bit of a drive from my new home (3992kms to be exact! ).

Yep & exactly! although one look into my engine bay with the big RED R RACING - BUILD NUMBER XX plauque on the coil pack cover will say somethings not quite right lol.

buy a dog

Benji - congrats on finally been able to legally drive your car. Don't hit anyone. lol

have you been peaking in my enigine bay? - exactly the look i'm going for!

And this is the current spec list for the car - the things in red are still to be done Engine – Bottom End Stock block – dipped, prepped, grouted, bored, honed to 86.5mm Nitto/JE 86.5mm pistons ACL race series bearings ARP rod bolts Stock crank, grub screwed and balanced Stock rods, tested, prepped and balanced Nitto oil pump N1 water pump Ross 1500hp balancer Red R racing 8.5L baffled/gated sump with extended pickup Anticorrosion plating of all bolts/new bolts Nismo Engine mounts Engine – Top End Red R ‘Stage 1’ custom port and seat job on head Chambers equalised Port matched intake manifold Stock plenum with recoated throttle bodies. Tomei type B valve springs + titanium retainers Tomei valve guides Tomei poncams 260/9.15 cams Tomei adjustable cam gears Gates timing belt kit New Nissan head/intake/exhaust studs Yellow jacket coilpacks Full nitto gasket kit inc. 1.2mm metal head gasket Red R racing modified CAS sensor Mines triple flow cam baffels Red R Racing catch can/washer bottle combo with braided lines Nismo oil filter cap Custom ‘Wrinkle covers’ with Red R Racing build plate (wasn’t ready) Anticorrosion plating of all bolts/new bolts Engine - Hot Side Ceramic coated 2860-5’s with port matched exhaust housing and modified oil control. Ceramic coated R34 GTR N1 exahust manifolds – port matched (these are hard to find and are bigger than ordinary r34 rb26 manifolds) Ceramic coated R34 GTR Vspec dump pipes – port matched Refurbished stock heat shields. Custom Red R Racing Twin 2.75 to 4” equal length front pipe with V-band connectors and o2 sensor port (wasn’t ready) Custom 4” high flow 100cell metal cat with V-band connectors (wasn’t ready) Custom 4” catback with V-band connectors (wasn’t ready) Stock front pipe with o2 sensor port Stock cat 3” futjisbo geiken titanium exhaust Engine – intake/cooling Stock airbox with Nismo R-Tune cold air Intake New Air filter Gutted MAF’s ARC full twin hardpiping kit painted teflon black New samco custom hose for ARC piping Kit ARC Twin entry intercooler Red R Racing modified HKS SSQS BOV’s Nismo oil cooler kit with FRP ducting and braided lines Custom oil filter relocation kit Flex-co 2” alloy radiator with Nismo high pressure cap New samco radiator hoses Engine – Fuel system/other Nismo intank fuel pump 11mm Billet fuel rail (we were playing around with getting 10.5mm adapters made, but it was just too much hassel) 2200CC EV14 injectors Nismo fuel cap 5L undercar Surge tank + pump with braided lines New vacuum lines, heater hoses, boost lines etc Electronics Greedy Profec B II boost controller Hatech platinum Pro ECU with wiring harness Haltech 3bar map sensor Tech edge 3A2 wideband o2 controller (4.2 sensor) Techedge lambda display (needs to be wired up) 1200CCA Odyssey battery Drive Train/Suspension/Chassis Refurbed getrag (new bearings, syncro’s etc) Refurbed transfer box with modded plates Nismo clutch master cylinder Nismo gearbox mounts Jim berry custom clutch based on an Exedy carbon-D twin plate with billet flywheel. Replacing Attessa pumps/control unit/sensors as required to get the awd working Nismo/ARC/Stock suspension links (it’s a mix that I need to sort) Ohlins coilovers (need a bit of TLC) Aftermarket underbody bracing (not sure of what brand it is – its big, shiny and thick) Refreshed Front brake cooling ducts with new hoses N1 rear brake bracket upgrade (i.e. to run 322 rotors at rear) Project mu 322x30 SCR GT lightened rotors all-round Project mu brake pads Brembo callipers New front drive shaft Aero/body Top secret full front diffuser Stock rear diffuser with RB motorsport bracket kit Mines front bar cooling vents Mines carbon cooling panel N1 vents for oil cooler Z-tune style carbon skirts and rear pods Z-tune style carbon bonnet (needs aero latches) Stock bonnet on standby Front bar needs replacing Cosmetics/other leather seat covers Nismo 320km/hr speedo A working stereo