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wedge_r34gtr

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Everything posted by wedge_r34gtr

  1. Thanks Steve, it’s taken a big step in the right direction. Well it’s been hectic past three weeks; I’ve packed my house up for moving interstate, had my last grandparent unfortunately passed away and had an engine put back in the GTR. As you can appreciate, I was a little busy so I was more interested in getting things done then taking photographs. Anyway, I did manage to take a couple and this is where I was up to last time: Clutch on Engine install Installing the engine was a little tricky, it’s a bit of move down, push back, move down, push back repeated a few times until the gearbox input shaft spline lined up correctly. After everything was connected back up, intercooler and radiator were hooked back up and front bar re-installed. I didn’t have time to create a custom recirculation pipe for my stock GTR BOV’s, so the HKS BOV’s got a rebuild (clean, modified spring and a much fatter o-ring) and re-installed for the time being . Now, it was time for some fluids Geabox – royal purple syncromax ~2L Transfer case – Nissan Matic D ~2L Attesa pump reservoir – Nissan Matic D ~0.5L Front Diff – Royal Purple ~1L Radiator - 8L of demineralised water and 1L of concentrated glycol free coolant. Sump – 9L of cheap shell oil for run in. We had a small leak from the rear turbo water lines and front diff, but other than that everything was sweet! Connect battery: And then turn the key….followed by 15mins of scratching heads and checking leads wondering why it won’t start….until we realise the fuel pump fuse is missing and the battery is flat. We changed the battery, replaced the fuse and she roared to life. (Unfortunately no video – really wish I got a video). Anyway, Pauls method of bedding the rings involved: ~5 mins of Revving between 3.5-4.5k RPM (no holding), followed by 2-3min hold @ 4-4.5k RPM and repeating until engine is up to temp (or 3-4 cycles) then allowing the engine to cool and repeat this again. It’s critical for a decent seal, not to let the engine idle for the first ~30mins of operation. Engine oil was then droped/replaced and the oil filter split for analyses – no debris and all good. It’s usually straight to the dyno for Paul’s engines, but there were still a lot of things to connect on this car. First drive out of the garage in over 6 months - Next up was the rear diffuser Two of the brackets were really shagged. After a realised everything was riveted on (which required drilling out to remove), I decided only to replace a couple of the brackets (enough to put it back on) and then do the rest in Perth. I should note that the RB motorsport diffuser kit was a really good fit too. Once I have all the parts installed again I’ll take some better photos. Catch can, Oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit – This took a quite a bit of mucking around to get everything to fit nice, but i love how it looks (i'll take some better photo's once it's in Perth too). And that’s was pretty all I got photo’s of. There’s still quite a bit more to be done to the car but we were just out of time. I really wanted to get DVSJEZ to tune the car, but we had to settle for a brief road tune of ~25km as they were picking the car up for transport to Perth. (As a bit of an update, they were meant to pick it up yesterday, but reportedly took one look at the car and said too low for the truck– we’ll be back next week for it. My new injectors and a few other required things are already on their way to WA so there still won’t be any dyno time to it reaches Perth) Cheers, Joel
  2. these are the two links you need Matt. www.bunnings.com.au/ for paint www.youtube.com to leanrn how to apply it Lol, just kidding. Ask Ant where he got his bonnet sprayed
  3. Good to here. Yeah, your old radiator definatly wasn't doing it's job. That temp is pretty much right on the money.
  4. r33/r32 model code has already been predominatly worked out: http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=421
  5. Check yours intake hoses in the morning. You may have just popes one off
  6. that looks fun!
  7. Sneak peak at my engine bay - will still need some work in Perth, but getting there: Catch can looks fanatastic. Wish i had the plenum painted black now too.
  8. lol i don't live there lol. i should have said the mobile broadband is woeful, but yeah the domestic internet isn't bad apparently
  9. haha probarly. Port headland definatly would...internet up here is woeful.
  10. yeah... the coilovers and fuel were bit out of your control.
  11. Yeah i'm about at that figure now and still not finished :-( But at least with mine, i've spent alot on preventitive upgrades - e.g. upgrade it before it breaks.
  12. Maybe Matt should have listened to his own advice...His clutch welding abaility wouldn't have been near as good. Adam, know exactly how you feel. Stay with it mate...it will be all worth it in the end
  13. 4wd has started. next problem - They apprently took one look at the GTR and said too low. Its gone back into my garage and there organising a different truck to pick it up.
  14. woops...first problem..4wd won't start.
  15. Ther've just rocked up to pick my 4WD and gtr up for shipping. I'm exicited :-)
  16. yep - mods are extemely busy at the moment due to nationals was the answer i got. Be pateint or pm a supermod if you see one online - Ash was nice enough to approve mine (thanks again ash :-)
  17. Jeremy loves skylines...so his allright by me :-)
  18. (said in Jeremy clarkson voice) - you modified your car and you ruined it!!! obviously i'm talking about the reliability...i think the car's sweet!!!
  19. Yep the cash up mining bogan's like there v8's. The car scene isn't to bad. WA hasn't caught up with the rest of australia with the hoon laws so there's abit more freedom here. There doesn't seem to be a big skyline scene here though- they seem to be a bit rarer over here. WRX's, however are everywhere and your right - its pretty trippy seeing P platers on turbo's.
  20. mmm... my garatt catalogue has the wrong part number for -9's. The 707160-9 is what you were after. Email the shop and make sure thats what your getting. I don't think these come with actuators either...
  21. sorry should have been more specific. The part number you quoted first is the '2860-9' turbo with the SR20 style flange, BUT this turbo with with the option 430609-230 exhaust housing is what your after (i.e. the -9 of this thread). The correct turbo part numbers for the rb26 are a few posts above.
  22. ADAM - you were a day early buying your rad: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412331-r34-gtr-koyo-radiator-new/page__pid__6595236#entry6595236
  23. no rush matt. Probarly wont get to watch it till next week once i'm off the work connection. also, I put a photo of my clutch plate in the build thread like you wanted
  24. R34 model decoding 01 B=4dr G=2dr 02 GH=RB20E GK=RB25DE(T) GJ=RB26DETT 04 A=2WD B=2WD+electric S-HICAS P=4WD+S-HICAS 05 R ALWAYS - Right Hand Drive 06 E=20GT,25GT, 25GT-X T=25GT-T, V=GTR, W=GTR V-spec (1/2, nur, N1) 07 A=4AUTO F=5 MANUAL Y=6 manual 08 R34 ALWAYS 11 E=EGI U=TURBO Z=TWINTURBO 12 D=standard, Z= cold weather spec (heated mirros, bigger battery) 13 A-standard production car (always A) BNR34 only - 14 Wheels/Tyres?? - always A (or - for N1)? 15 Rear wiper??? A,B,- or G 16 TRIM - J=GTR, C=N1, V=VS2nur, Z=VS2, M=Mspec, K=Vspec 17 Central locking option??? E,C or - 18 Drive line or climare control option???? - E, D or -
  25. pics of my carbon disks i just found...the metal plates look the same as any other clutch.
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