wedge_r34gtr

thanks matt - It gets better :-)

I'm running Haltech :-) so +1 here too. another great ecu to consider is the link/vipec. I was running one before the haltech and was really happy too (They make the speedo wave at you when you start the car too...just awesome.). Only changed to Haltech as the ecu was incorrectly blamed for a problem. the link G4 also allows you to keep the stock ECU case.

Another update while i'm online: So I’ve decided I’m not happy with the ARC intake box. It’s a great looking box, but I feel the design has the same flaw as pods – sucks in hot air from the engine bay. I thought about designing my own box similar to the ARC, but with an idea I’ve had for a cold air intake; but I really don’t have the time to stuff around and feel the money would be better off spent elsewhere. I may look at doing this design next year for a bit of R&D. So anyway - I’ve sourced a stock r34 gtr box and snorkel in excellent condition. I’m a little worried the stock snorkel may be restrictive with -5’s, so I’ve also ordered a nismo R-tune intake (apparently 25% better flowing – I will try to test this back to back on the dyno if time permits) and will be ordering either a nismo or K&N filter. I’m also a little worried about the clearance over the 52mm radiator, but I’ll deal with this when the time comes. Next up on my list of things to do was to sort the exhaust. I originally planned to use my current 3” Futjitsubo Titanium catback with a set of mines style front pipes and high flow cat, but after going through all the -5 results I could find, it seemed the best results always occurred with a 3.5”+ full exhaust. So after looking around and finding no off the shelf equal length front pipes that merged into a 3.5”plus that were to my liking, I decided to go custom and I gave Paul a ring… He’d been working on his mates VL Calais and he had produced some pretty impressive pipe work with that: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=250231 Also, he’d made a few 4” exhausts for a couple of guys on here with good results (NYTSKY (Dave) rings a bell – someone can correct me if I’m wrong). So full 4” stainless it was with a custom cat and equal length twin 2.75” to 4” front pipes with V-band joiners. Paul hadn’t made an equal length twin system, but was willing to give it a try… The results are looking favourable: Paul says he usually does 2 or 3 prototypes before his happy with a product, but these just look sex. He did say he won’t be totally satisfied till there fitted and clearance checked… To be honest the photo’s don’t really do this justice and for a first attempt, it is just superb.

One step ahead of you :-). Paul & terry both mentioned the mod, and after a bit of research i found pretty much what you've said. By all accounts the mod helps alot with the torque transfer and essential makes the car more snappy pulling out of corners. If i remember correctly there going to change it from a 7 plate (4 thick/3 thin) setup to a 11 plate (all thin) set-up. I don't know the exact dynamics of it, so that what i've just said could be wrong.

Jarad, you should try some project mu pads - there awesome...but they can be a bit grindy when cold.

As long as there is a some sort of cat with stuff inside it, it's all good. Guit-toy was talking about trying to pass emissions testing without a cat on E85 (he was confident he could too :-), but the way the law is written you can't drive without a cat :-(

rb20dt is short for rb20DET (T indicates turbo) 4k - i don't know Hi-4wd - HICAS + ATTESSA 4WD Build date - july 1990 Model number explaination for r32 http://www.gtrpwr.com/showthread.php?t=421

oh now i feel like a retart lol. Is it like the legoland in newcastle (on the river next wickam)?

i think he was refering to the amount of blocks required to build the house - blocks/bricks lol

mmm could be that. i know the r33 had a cold district specification, so it makes sense that the r34 had one. I don't think i have heated mirrors though Regardless, the car's in pretty good condition if it came from a snow region.

Its not a UK car. Theyapparently have chasis codes starting with JN1 (not BNR) If anyone can shed some light on this, feel free to do so :-)

thanks mate. I was looking through the workshop manual (thats where that model variation image is from) when i decided to check my model code and that extra Z caught my eye. It could have come from the UK - anythings possible - i also think a few got sold in NZ too i'll check out the uk site and see what i can come up with.

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code. Thanks in advance

Correct, but if my car was sitting ontop of a concret barrier with some of the wheels fallin off, the damage to the sump is probarly going to be the least of my worries.

fair enough...but decent 32's do exist! and remember they made them to 94....not going to much dif between a well looked after 94 r34gtr and a 95 r33 gtr From the prices i've seen lately, i consider this as a guide 32gtr: 10-20K 33gtr: 15-25k 34gtr: 40k+ nur: 60k+ add 5-10k for vspec/LM.

J-Rad, Any reason your not looking at 32gtr's aswell?

Maybe he was giving it some (baked) beans ...lol sorry...i'm no help either

If you want to look at common rust area's on R34 GTR's, check out some of the 34's in the UK(due to salted roads in UK aswell) . Any area's these guy's are getting rust, are areas you need to look at. It's also worth noting for all r34 owners what some of them are doing to prevent the rust. Some of the most common areas i've seen - Brake light - front tower strut - these are made up of two overlaping mild steel sheets and the sealing (running next to the brace bar) isn't effective. - Vspec rear diffuser brakets - chassis bar under the air con condenser/radiator - Under the carpets in the boot - boot sealing area - damaged chasis rails (from incorrect jacking) - the lower sections on the front & subframes - brackets in general.

Well the head & block have been sent off for crack testing and machining. In the meantime, Paul’s been keeping busy by starting some fab work for the car Oil catch can – no idea why it’s in his bathroom. Upgrading the stock sump to a 9L pan. Paul also bought a new polisher – he wanted something to try it on….I now have a polished race pan sump. I forgot about the last two screws in my coil cover last year when I was changing my spark plugs and broke the end off – so I got Paul to fix this too. Covers will be getting repainted in a TBD colour. Meanwhile, I was back from work and I started fiddling with the engine bay. Front bar off. Everything’s pretty dirty and needs a good clean. The holes in the reinforcing bar are for the ‘mines’ cooling vents Vspec GTR’s are pretty low – especially with the ohlins/nismo coilovers, and unfortunately the diffuser & front bar cops a hiding if the car bottoms out. This bumper had been repaired before and although I’ve been careful, it has started to crack on the sides again. Also one of the mines vents has cracked- not sure how this happened. I had a chat with Peter @ bodyformaero about fixing the bar. He believed the bar would be repairable, but due to the (lack of) height, I would be better off with a new one to prevent the cracking from re-occurring. Due to funds and time, this will have to wait to next year. No Biggy. Anyway, I removed the intercooler and dropped it off at Pauls for a hydrofluoric acid clean. The initial clean with a decent degreaser actually brought the IC up quite nice. I also removed the HKS’s BOV’s and have sourced the stock BOV re-circulation system off an r33 gtr to replace them with.

you sure that wasn't just an N1? EDIT found it all good. I guess there is/was a 400R is Australia

^^^ thats a nice looking gtr, only trouble is they only made <50 and none of them are in australia as far as i'm aware.

This is great. Its awesome to see someone has owned and maintained the same skyline for so long. And its pretty cool see the progression over the years. excellent thread mate.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58428gtrr32/index.htm found one for ya ^^^

not bad - nice & midley modified inc some good stopping upgrades.

fair enough You should ask around at nats...might get lucky