wedge_r34gtr

I thought the gates belt was an upgrade?

E85 shower... Is that like a green shower rather then a golden shower?

Not if bring newcastle chicks along ! Chicks chicks chicks (said in fat pizza voice with big subs soundin)

Do it! Do it! Do it! Do it! Next Friday nite! He won't mind if we rock up with a keg and yell surprise!

jim likes to talk clutch lol ...i'll make a decsion tonght. might see if i can pick some Id1000/2000 in sydney tomorrow yeah only playin around..don't get to play in the wasteland that much due to NSFW...i'm basically on my work connection all the time atm

that will be an impressive clutch lol - I actually didn't know i had carbon clutch till we pulled the engine out - was a nice suprice and explained the slippage. The hole clutch package (minus fly) only weighs like 3kg - much lighter then a normal twin. I just told JIM to machine me a billet fly wheel to match the clutch..so i don't know what i ended up with TBH. I got the as part of a package deal from the US last year when i was going to do a -9 setup - brand new nismo MAF's, new injectos, midori modified intake pipe and nismo front pipe for $1200US - was pretty happy...although i sold the front pipes, not using the twin turbo pipe, going for a map tune (no mafs) and the injectors are probarly to small. ahh outsider :domokun: :domokun:

my car's penciled in at JEZ's for a tune next friday, and cold start saturday...so at this stage i will be making the cruise if all my parts arrive and theres no hipcups etc My biggest concern atm is my injectors (only 600cc)...expecting to crack 400awkw (more hoping lol, just to say i cracked 400awkw - expecting more around 380 on finaly tune, i'm not going to be disappointed either way) so i should be pretty much at the limit for these injectors on paper. so if everything works out, someone can jump in with me.

lol...i was sort of wondering how long your clutch would last. Don't get me wrong - it still sucks that you toasted it. JIM's fully monty clutch is magic - zero slip. My clutch & new flywheel ahould be leaving JIM's today - its a little different as its its a dual carbon clutch - superlight and responsive, but you actually need to slip it to put enough heat into so it actually grabs whens cold. It was a bit of a prick to get up steep driveways etc when the car was cold - JIM's almost doulbled the clamping force, so hoperfully it will be much better.

yeah fair enough - should be all good redline is the best, but you can only buy that in drums. Royal Purple or Motul 300V fully synthetic are the other great alternatives. 10-40w should be good for a daily driver.

Now me and the mad sceitist have to pull apart the block...sorry couldn't help it. Its kind of a like a expensive safety feature with these cars...you'll get oil starvation and destroy the engine long before you loose grip...i still would have liked to see a larger sump on this build list for added protetion, but just make sure you overfill it by a 1L. Also, make sure your builder cleans and checks everything throughly...you don't want to be pulling it apart again in 3 months cause of the bearing shavings floatin around in your block have destroyed the rings or something else.... Damn, thats pretty quick... cruise on 26th if you can make it...i don't think mine will tuned by then, but i might see if i can jump in with someone.

Probarly true, but still nothing wrong with OEM/yellow jackets. I bought a set of yellows early last year (to replace a set of splits...blamed incorrectly for miss) and i couldn't be happier with the product... the fact the old splits are still packed in a box under my work bench is a good indication of how happy i'am. Yellow jackets have a good warrenty and the i beleive the quality issues when they first came on the market have long been sorted.

So about ~35kg lighter then a normal vspec....might keep my air con :-)

a rb25 head without a head gasket and studs...id say zero

the power slide (pun intented) is fun but an expensive process

Both methods have advantages/disadvatages... i think in that situations, it comes down to what your tuner is more comfatable with. In saying that though, MAFs aren't the most reliable sensors and i would be inclined to go with MAP for the added reliablity.

Not a bad little setup - plenty of supporting mods for when the power bug hits :-)

This may help that was on BAKES r34 GTR - the engine just had bolt on's similar to yours, but a restrictive exhaust which hurts the -5 result a fair bit. http://www.skylinesa...gtr/page__st__0 If you wanted a -5 set-up to be as/near responsive as stock, you would have to look at VCT or a stroker. However, if you look at 2.6's that are built for a -5 setup (ported head, 260 cams, 4"inch exchaust etc), the power curve virtually follows a -7/-9 curve...just with a significantly higher peak. Not sure how the revability is affected...will know in a couple weeks once my -5 build is finished & tuned .

It's a mspec - very rare. His not on the forums afaik

The thermal cycling of a block essential acts as a heat treatment cycle, thus stress releiving the microstructure. Thus the older the block, generally the more heat cycles it's been through and thus the less residual stress, hence a stronger block. In addition to the above, I have heard (not sure where sorry) the first 500 or so r32 rb26 blocks were made to the same spec(or just chemistry) as the n1 blocks, just not marked the same. If I could get hold of some fragments of various blocks agross the years, I could properly get a spectro and microstructure analsys done through work.

there's the route or there abouts.

IBTL Use the search button.

Talk about overnight parts from japan - I got an email Yesturday from nengun saying my parts had just been dispatched - just rocked up at my doorstep then. Wasn't even booked on express lol.

Might be alright for a streeter then, just overfill the sump by a 1L.