HR32GTS 4DOOR

Why is 13:1 AFR lean?

But if you pull the dash light out, It won't tell you if there aren't any other faults with the power steering. eg if the reservoir is low on fluid the light will come on.

The timing jumping around was my problem not the OP's problem, Mine was on knock map since the smaller injectors leaning out. Im surprised it even ran

This is why But I don't get why everyone has cop troubles with these cars. After driving mine for over a year (daily driver), the only time I have been pulled over was when I turned onto a street with a defect station. Maybe It's just the 2 more doors?

Yeah I know, Swapped them out for the purple ones. Drives sooooo much better now

No DO it for the lulz

Just get one of these.... http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/GT3076Rwg1.jpg

DId you get a wheel alignment after you put the coilovers on? you may have enough adjustment in the stock arms (only about 5mm I think) to remove the camber. I only have camber arms on the rear of my car (R32 I believe the rear subframe on a 33 is similar), When you reduce the camber with the arms, the wheels tow out at the rear. There is enough adjustment in the stock tie rods to remove this. I'm only talking about the rear of the car. Don't know about the front.

THIS is the EXACT same problem I am having after my engine swap. shitty power down low, makes boost fine but no pull untill 5000rpm Checked everything I could by myself, Cam timing exhaust restriction boost/vacuum leaks etc. Also If you put a timing light on it can you actually get a reading, mine just jumps around. I noticed the other day that my injectors are not the standard purple colour they are red, so im guessing thats my issue and a long shot but could be yours???

IMO whenever I have had just resonators that makes it drone. On my old motor na rb20 I had two hotdog style resonators sounded really nice under load but cruising it would be almost as loud and drone like crazy. Then I had the rear one replaced with an oval one and got rid of the drone almost completely, but made it sound not as good under load. Its a compromise really.

Ah forgot to put that in, Yes it is much better now. still not as good as I would like but improved it a lot. Throttle not needed anymore to start.

Ok so after doing a bit of research I found that I may not have the standard rb25det injectors. Am I correct to believe that the standard RB25DET injectors are purple? The plenum on the engine does not have the little nipple on the back of the plenum for the stock boost gage so I believe it may be from a non turbo rb25. (the plenum came off a different engine to the one it is on now) The injectors on the engine now are red, As said before, am using rb25det computer so I doubt the car would run if non turbo rb25 injectors were used. Help would be great guys

So after having problems starting my car without any throttle ever since the engine swap I decided to do something about it. Also since I couldn't find a tute on here so decided to document the process. Disclaimer Attempt this at your own risk. I am neither an auto electrician nor a mechanic. I take no responsibility for any damage that you do to your vehicle in the process of following this guide. Difficulty - Easy Time taken 30-45 min Things you will need Flat head pliers 10mm socket with 1/2" drive ratchet and extension phillips head screwdriver Carby cleaner A band aid Directions The valve on an RB25 is located under the plenum, on an RB20 is is under the throttle body. locate the valve it is a metal and black thing with two vacuum hoses attached to each end. This is what it looks like under the plenum with one of the vacuum hoses disconnected. Use your pliers to remove the clamp and then gently pull the hose off (where it would be in the above picture). The hoses are old and may be quite brittle so take care in removing them. Then there are two 10mm bolts holding the valve to the bottom of the plenum, use your ratchet and extension to make it a lot easier to access. after the bolts are out take off the clamp on the other hose and pull the valve from the hose. Again carefully. Once you have the valve out it should look like this. there are four screws holding the black plastic part on. undo these and it should look like this. make sure you dont damage the gasket as this will cause a boost leak if not rectified. I didn't take the valve appart any further as I didn't think it was necessary. from here spray both parts with carby cleaner, it will probably be all gummed up with oil like mine was so take your time and it should all come up good. Final result. Then just do the opposite to put it all back together, also make sure you do up the four screws nice and tight you don't want to have to pull it back off because its leaking.

The cylinder head does not line up with the block as the bore of the 20 and 25/26/30 are different. use an r32 RB25DE head and plenum, has the same wiring as an rb20. but anyway the wiring for a 33 rb25 is pretty much the same

A bad PCV valve would cause this, but my money is on fried rings.

been a while since I posted here but I finally hooked up a timing light, set it at 15 deg, drove it, made it worse so assumed it was reading double, then tried to do it again but now it wont idle properly, like it will jump between 600-1000 rpm so i can't get a good reading for the timing. turning the screw on the AAC valve does nothing. also if i take the filter off the AFM (AFM still on car tho) it gets a lot worse, like idle drops and eventually stalls. also I connected up the VCT and that did nothing.

My old man has these on his Mazda 6 and dare I say it it grips a hell of a lot better than my 32. they feel really safe in the wet, but for the price you are probably better off getting more of a performance tyre.

Yes I know they aren't a replacement, they are a lot bigger........... He gets away with it, If he wasn't allowed im sure he wouldn't be telling everyone who asks....

Nah Cause they are a "N1 replacement" he is allowed

I love how its like Hey everyone look! a bunch of R35 GTRs, oh and the new McLaren. I went to that show, went up to one of the 35s and got my mate to take a photo of me touching it . That blue 32 GTR was fast. Talked to the driver, running -5s on e85.

An r32 actuator is a 10psi spring, your's should be a 5psi spring unless its been changed in the past. Are you running the stock boost solenoid? when I dropped my exhaust from before the cat I saw no more than 9psi.

Those plugs look standard to me...

Well this is awkward just read up top where the post was made...

Here try this, may help. NIStune_Mapping_Guide.pdf Depends on what size the injectors are as the engine may still run (albeit badly) if the difference in size of your new ones aren't that much bigger than your stock 444s

Is the permit for going from two different locations (ie not to/from regency) more, like around $50? they may have charged me the more expensive one for some reason.