HR32GTS 4DOOR

If you are in SA it has been put up to about $50 I think from wherever you are to regency pits/VIN check

Hahah sooooo true, I have a mac book pro, only thing I don't like about it is the sh** graphics card in it. But I do run boot camp on it and run windows, runs fine plays games well. IMO they are exactly the same but I will always choose a mac so I can have both on one computer.

What car? Your turbo wheels are probably fouling their housings.

Should probably post more about the drive with no exhaust. when boost builds the car just gets very loud and droney but once it is past the flat spot it sounds quite normal like it should. can't tell change in sound with exhaust on since quiet exhaust. So probably the timing is just hella retarded I'll hook up a timing light when I get the chance.

Have a 33 ecu so may as well hook it up properly

Using RB20 loom so no VCT I'll hook it up when I can get a plug for it.

Nah wasn't just going up windy point rd or whatever its called in 3rd. Ok so took the exhaust off and went for a drive. No difference just made more boost (running off gate spring). still sluggish between 3-5000

Yeah that is what i was kind of starting to think, but it feels slower than my mates old stockish 32 with an rb20det not a 25. its definitely not slow up top is just majorly lacking in midrange torque

This is exactly correct! A helical gear does have its advantages over a straight cut gear. Mostly being the contact face of the gear is wider. it is not just the width of the gear itself but the length of the actual tooth. The downside to this is that the gear will have a axial or sideways loading on it, which usually is the cause to the gear failure. The way to overcome this is with a double helical cut gear, but I do not know of any manufacturer who uses these in an automotive application. Double helical cut gear (best example I could find) I believe the main reason people think helical cut gears are weaker is because they are used in stock gearboxes so they think "Its from factory, so it must not be as good" where as the actual manufacturing process of the gear and type of steel used is the main factor in determining gearbox strength. ie how the gear set is heat treated/ precipitation/age hardened etc.

Yeah had it running off the actuator and made 5 psi fine and spiked to 7 sometimes which i dont really care too much about, but it still felt slow. like it still makes boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but doesn't do much with it.

The turbine wheel is fine, Checked it before putting the turbo on the engine. Ill drop the exhaust off when I get a chance and hook up a timing light. But the way this thing feels I don't think it is ignition timing.

Ok so I'm posting back in this thread, didn't want to start another. Also ignore previous posts (except the setup in first post) as that was a different problem. The problem I have is when I accelerate in any gear the car will make boost but very slowly and not seem to do anything with it also it will make boost really slowly. It feels like there is a flat spot in the power untill about 5000 rpm where it decides to pull like a turbo car should... It will make 5psi by 3000 but then slowly increase to 8-9 at 4500 which the boost controller is set at. You would think this is a boost controller issue but when it makes the 5psi it just keeps feeling like an NA engine untill 5000 rpm. I had a similar problem with the last motor (non turbo) when the cam timing was out where it wouldn't make any power until 4500ish rpm, but I have checked the timing and it is spot on. Also tonight after I went for a drive I noticed the turbine housing was glowing slightly red which would lean towards retarded timing or a blocked cat, but wouldn't a blocked cat have the opposite problem. ie no power up top and fine down low? The lack in power is not misfiring just a lack in power, the plugs are new and gapped at .76 I have a video of it, I'll try to upload it soon. Help appreciated. Thanks Matt

As title says Wanted to buy an rb20det gearbox in good working contition. Location Adelaide SA Thanks

Not until you tell us what you actually think a BOV does.... I want to know

THIS just made my day

Problem Solved, Turns out doing the wiring at 2am isn't such a good idea, Mixed up the two injector pins which needed to be swapped to run the 33 ecu. making injector 6 jammed open all the time and injector 4 running off the wrong signal.......

Ok so I bought new plugs, gapped them to .76, taped up coil packs, changed back to the old green label afm and still same misfire. haven't driven it yet but still misfiring on a rev and a little on idle. I did notice that there was what looked like oil on cylinder 6 plug but just turned out to be petrol mixed with carbon as it dried out quickly. also I ran it with the AFM unplugged and did the same thing so I doubt it is AFM related. Any one have any ideas as im stumped.......

The afm should work fine, I'll put the green one back on to see if that makes a difference since i didn't drive with that one on because when I started it I thought "this runs like shit the green turbo afm must be different to non turbo." Could it be something to do with the amplifier im using as it's the rb20 one not the rb25 one does the ecu send a different voltage or something?

VCT not hooked up

I have read multiple places that they are the same as an rb25 one except the plug is different. Not sure if it is true, but it runs a lot better than with the green label that I had on the old motor. which has the same numbers on it as the turbo rb20 ones i have seen. the green label on the old motor made this one misfire on just a free rev and run really rich which would imply that the resolution of the non turbo afm is less than the turbo afm. Where as this purple label one revs fine under no load. Do you know if there is a difference between the Non turbo green label and the turbo one. no one seems to know this.

Ok so after doing a lot of searching it seems like my problems are almost the opposite of what most people experience. Background info: car is an r32 GTS with series 1 rb25det I swapped into the car last week. r33 s1 ecu, stock injectors, stock turbo, stock bov, 5psi of boost just off actuator spring with vacuum line from plenum as i don't have a nipple off the intercooler piping just yet, pcv hooked up as stock, r32 loom with rb25 injector plugs soldered on in place of rb20 injector plugs. Purple label AFM off a J30?, I think, maxima. will put my green label on to see if this makes a difference. So what the problem is that the car will badly missfire if and be extremly sluggish from anywhere in rev range unless you mash the loud pedal to the floor. It will build 5psi by 2500-3000 rpm but will just slowly rev up to about 4500 where it will suddenly pull and break traction. this is exactly what the old rb20de did except it didn't misfire (or brake traction) and I thought it was just normal. also it runs fairly rich don't know what AFR as I don't have a wide band The coils "should" be fine as they were off my rb20 and didn't missfire, have copper plugs, don't know what they are gapped to. will check and gap them to 0.8 when i get a chance. Is there something in the rb20de loom which is different to the rb20det loom which changes something in the engine at 4500 rpm. Any help would be great. Thanks Matt

Bump I need to know this

Update, Got it running today just off the TPS and no front pipe. loud As F*** pics soon

Delete

Hi all, So I finally decided to post a build thread about my R32 sedan. It all first started in January 2011 when I purchased my first skyline, a black R32 GTS sedan with a boat anchor RB20DE and 149,000 on the clock (Probably more like 300,000 from what happens later). At the time the car was unregistered, from interstate and in need of a bit of TLC. I got it at at a pretty good price since it was unregistered so i thought what the hell and decided on a bit of an ongoing project. this when i first bought it and sadly where it stayed for 3 months. It had a bit of damage on the rear and the bonnet had seen better days. So from being from interstate it needed to go through the pits to get registration. Of course this did not go well and came home with a big list of stuff to fix. Rear subframe bushes, rear tie rods, front tie rod ends etc all had to be replaced. So about 8 months later after doing all the work myself in the very little time I had since being an engineering student, I finally got it all roadworthy and took it through and got rego. Car after a good clean up. After this the car has been plagued with problems. Head gasket blew...... Water pump went, alternator broke, fuel pump died, the gearbox input shaft started to get pretty noisy and finally I spun a bearing. Most of this is probably due to how much you have to rev an NA rb20 to get anywhere..... After contemplating what engine to put into it, I was pretty keen on just an rb20det to keep things cheep and the ease of the swap since I was pretty happy on how my mates 32 went with one, But realised it would be even worse under boost that my NA one was so decided to go 25. So now being on uni break (sound like one of those school holiday kids ), dad reluctantly let me use the shed for the conversion. Currently the engine is out and picking up the new engine tomorrow. Just Jap Front mount installed. Had to remove the front auto spoiler which was a bit lame but well worth it. Day one of conversion, mostly the day was taken up with cleaning the shed so i could use the space. Day two engine out, gearbox off. The plan for now is just to bolt the gearbox and clutch to the engine. This is probably not ideal since the gearbox is an NA box and the clutch is just a HD organic clutch for the rb20de so it is actually smaller than the turbo model ones. So hopefully for now the clutch will be soft enough to stop the gearbox from exploding. Then when money permits an rb25 box will most likely go in with a better clutch. Plans for future. R33 brakes with 5 stud hubs R33 abs unit cause this is the second r32 unit that has started leaking on me Wheels of some kind Stock shimmed R32 diff or better Coilovers (undecided on what just yet) 3 or 3.5" exhaust rb25 gearbox Bit of body work and a respray.