portaz

Ok I have done this a few times and it will give u a guide only, best way is leak down test but you can do a comp test turning by hand with all plugs out , u get tired easy and I find the first two jumps are what u should look at And I managed 100 psi by hand , just remember that on the starter ur turns at a few hundred rpm by hand it's like 4 and there really isn't any other way around it but like I said it gives u a guide. Once the engine is in I comp test before starting and so far it has worked out ok. Scott

Probably best from a low k wreck on here mate there should be a few around

Price ?

Same as you but 2000cc injectors and nismo fpr

That was my plan but during searching the subject I thought it worth checking

Good question I have been told it is but I will soon find out!

Old thread but would like to know also

Ask Scotty a few posts above he will sought it out for u

There is a member on here Scotty nm35 I think got my adaptors made for $50 trust me 11mm won't fit regardless of what id say, btw mine is Bosch 2200 on rb26 Scott

Well I would consider piston slap bottom end, seriously consider a different builder it amazes me he would put old pistons and oil pump in an rb26 I'm my opinion it should have stayed in pieces waiting for new parts due to the labour involved in pulling one out and stripping it down, anyway if it were mine I wouldn't drive it.

Check your intercooler pipes my bet is one has blown off or leaking, who rebuilt it and what state are u in? Scott

Someone must be able to help, if I were you if be searching Holden wreckers and see if any of the larger ones are interested or even eBay.com.au Scott

Yes the guy who had it before I'd say wasn't running a charcoal canister and he had stripped alot of those metal lines, I'm really undecided as to whether run two hoses cable tied to the water line already there or pull it all apart and start again, seems a shame those cause I was so clever and did all the belt tensions and had all accessories installed before I put engine in.

Sounds like what I was thinking of doing its a bit rough but achieves same purpose I guess

Just had a quick look I can get the tubes from sss but it means full timing belt and can gear removal to acheive it mmm have to think about that one

Bugger it looks like I don't have that behind the timing cover either then could I pick up vacuum source from same place as boost controller? Eg intercooler passenger side? Anyway around the purge?

Hi guys I did a search on this but the results are not really suited to my issue. I want to keep my canister button new engine has the hard vacuum lines removed that go around the back of the now installed engine, which leaves the vac and purge lines on the canister without anywhere to hook up to, I could run a line around the back of engine for vac but no idea on purge, is there an easier option? Scott

Type of car?

My dad gave me a hand with the engine forward all the bolts were so easy, a little mucking around to line up engine mounts after box was attached but still less than an hour so I'm pretty pleased its in, now to all those pesky fabrication mods

Depends on budget, there is a guy in for sale section selling -5s dumps and hard pipe kit, then tomei or jun drop in cams, adjustable cam gears bigger fuel pump injectors e85 pump tune .. Job done.

I will have a look at that but I just had a look a there is no room to angle engine without hitting firewall so box must go on straight. As the engine is just sitting there if the cross member idea doesn't work I'm thinking moving the engine forward should do the trick .

I'm about 8 weeks post op now and own a business and go in for a few hours here and there but I have trouble with complex forward planning and some times forget things, big issue is I have bugger all strength as well as getting fat from being in bed lol I'm just not sure if I can ever be the same and managing 10 staff the stress is sometimes too much but surgeon keeps saying its normal your doing good blah blah

How long did it take for you to regain your strength and be back to normal? It's a bit scarey how common these things are, glad your doing ok now though.

Yes clutch is fully aligned but at this stage the input shaft is 3 inches from the centre

Card board is good idea it's that tight it should go down between drain and firewall but only just