Tommyk

Maybe not better performance, but a stronger spark. If you think about it, the larger the distance between the spark plug gap thingy (whatever you wanna call it), the larger the spark will be. Larger spark = better combustion. Its just a thought. Im just not sure whether splitfires (which i would assume are simply brand new nissan-ish coils - they wouldnt be any better spec than brand new stock coils - provie me wrong) with stock distributor will provide a big enough spark at a 1.1mm gap to withstand 1.3 bar and 3.8L of fuel/minute

are you endorsing me drink driving ? I think the biggest issue, is that it would need to be a squirt up the top of 3rd or in 4th gear and that = 180+ Just playin with ya. I know that this would be the easiest way of doing it. But is it worth wasting my time doing this ? As in have you or anyone seen any benefits to increasing gap ?

Thats not a very good answer I mean the beer part yes, but not about dropping it 0.1mm at a time. Thats a pain in the arse + a lot of dyno time. Would it provide any real benefit if the spark was good at say 1.0 mm compared to 0.8mm ?

Well I can only go from what ive seen. I bought a good 33 gtr. It didnt cost me much more than some of those 89 gtr's Ive had it for a year, and ive had no problems (touch wood). Oil pump failure is not an issue. The gearbox is a bit better (i think), the attessa system (on the vspec) is better, the electrics are better, the car is newer. BUT if you buy a shit one, it wont be any better than a shit 32. If I could EVER get my hands on a vspec 2 32, i would prefer that. provided that it was immaculate. the biggest problem is that some of these sell for 2million yen. others fetch closer to 3 million yen. and for a 11 year old car, thats ridiculous

the car is much better than any wife or girlfriend you will ever have TRUST me. If she tells you to sell, get a divorce (if my girlfriend heard me say this, she would shoot me )

Now that I have brand new splitfire coils, can i revert back to 1.1mm spark plug gaps or not ? I've read a bit of stuff on here on the forum, and some people have said that at 1.1mm the spark is a lot better on good coils than it is on 0.8mm gapped plugs. Question is, at 1.3 bar of boost with the amount of fuel i am running, will plugs at 1.1mm run fine or not. Does anyone know? I'm tempted to run standard gapped plugs, with maybe a colder heat range? (7 or 8's), before the car gets its final tune on saturday Many thanks for any help

Wayne - I may be in for the EC day on the 20th, but we will see how we go financially after new years + christmas is over Wakefield would also be nice sometime soon, provided it isnt as wet as it was on last sunday Heat will probably be more of an issue

LOL dude you can get it complied in any state in australia!! Ummm, pitfalls with 32 gtrs they are old. Most of em are junk. Find a good one locally, but get the engine inspected (most important) - leakdown + compression test. Oil pump failure is common with the crank collar design on the early 32's. Check for rust anywhere and everywhere. Check the gearbox is okay 4th and 5th gear synchros. Check the turbos are okay (if they are stock and running 1 bar, they will most likely be close to dead). Basically, if you buy an early 32 for cheap, you will need to replace the engine, the front clutch packs in the diff may be gone, the gearbox will be f**ked, shocks + suspension, etc. Ideally spend a bit more and get a better example. it will be cheaper in the long run. Alternatively, buy a good 33. they are not too much dearer

on/off switch = big laggy turbos

Last couple of times i was there i made no more than 5-6 If you end up getting there at about 4:30, 4:45 you should be able to get max 6 runs in. Which isnt TOO bad value for money. but the issue is getting out of work early.

Mik actually ended up sticking with the 2.6. I think money is a big factor in a build like this. Actually Mik, i made 305awkw on crd's dyno, but at something like 19/19.5 psi, which i didnt think to be safe on a stock car. And we made 315rwkw on bel's dyno with what i reckon to be another 15-20rwkw to gain (hopefully). This car sounds absolutely awesome. Particularly on the dyno when it starts spooling. The power curve picks up ridiculously after about 4-4500 rpm

paul, when will you be coming out to wsid ? or are you waiting until sport compact ?

I really think you guys should kiss and make up

This is why i have a certain dislike of dyno's. Secur1ty - Your final graph looks good, but the first one thats been done looks a bit bs - Were you honestly running 12/13 psi of boost? It almost seems as if the tuner did not have the throttle at 100% - seen by the drop in revs/power up top (the squiggle) Something seems seriously amiss there. The run was also done in 2nd - that definitely will affect things. I will be there on wednesday at wsid on the 14th. If you want, we can run side by side. I can give you a 3 second head start What we really need to do is to get all these cars and a dyno day together so we can really truly gauge who is relatively making what power.

Fair enough. Sounds good. You should make decent power and be maxing out those injectors. do you have a fpr ? Not sure anymore what power im making - I made 315rwkw on a dynolog dyno with a 13:1 AFR, with retarded timing (at least 5 degrees) due to problems with my coils. At that power, i see about 80% injector duty cycle with 13:1 AFR's ? Car made 305 awkw on a dyno dynamics in shootout @ 1.3 bar, but only used 72% injector duty @ 12:1 AFR ? (poor quality tune) I will have proper results next weekend once its had its final tune. Im expecting 330rwkw on the dynolog. Could be more. Let us know how you go. Hit the drags too, so we know what mph its capable of doing

Sounds good Quick question for you - what duty cycle do you get on the injectors on the pfc ? Reason why i ask, is that im at about 85% duty cycle @ 1.3 bar, so i assume your injectors must be maxing out ?

thats got to do with the smallish size of the engine ~2 litres, and the fact that it has a pretty low compression ratio. i had a bit of trouble getting used to the rb20, after driving the rb25 then once you go to the rb26, its even worse down low

American octane ratings are different to what we have here

thats pretty good. what boost are you running ? Have you hit the drags yet? What trap time and terminal speed did you run. Must be fun

I may be able to make the 14th. Car should have its final tune done by then. Would be good to have some more skylines there

Hey That sounds good. 2530's are worth around the 3-3.5k mark (but they dont make em anymore?). I would not go to gt-ss's, unless you want response. People on here are very happy with ss's but they wont give you the same kick in the pants a bigger set of turbos will. R34 turbos (the non n1 spec) will only last up to a max of 1 bar. They have ceramic wheels. If you get the n1 spec r34's, they are good for 1.3/1.4 bar. They are smaller than 2530's, and might not get to your power figure. I know the earlier 32's had a problem with the oil pump/crank collar or something, so you may need to invest in a solution to fix that problem. Bear in mind, that may involve taking the engine out. Anyway i gotta get to work

i reckon your turbo is holding you back. more boost means its pushing more (hot) air into the engine. then you get more detonation. its probably out of its efficiency range. Dont worry about the numbers. just make sure it is nice to drive

Ill try and offer some advice, considering the fact that ive spent close to that, and have 500hp or more at the engine. First of all, bear in mind, each time you add parts, you will need to tune the power FC. it wont run well, be it stock or modified unless you tune it. tuning costs money. 550cc injectors are too small. At the moment im at about 85% injector duty cycle on 700cc injectors. Rather than go z32's, go the nismo bolt in afms. same price, but bolt up to stock box or 60mm pods Remote fuel filter, or remote oil filter ? Fuel pump is okay. water pump - should have been done at your 100k service. check to see how new the pump looks. the stock gtr one will be fine oil catch can - get the greddy one from just jap - does the same job for half the price Go the 260/260 cams Valve springs - up to you. i havent changed mine yet rods mean opening up the engine. if you are doing that, you may as well rebuild it with forgies, rods, rings, etc. That alone could cost you 8k turbos - you will need 2530's or bigger to hit that power figure. my turbos arent too bad - garrett 2860r's Wastegate ? what for Fuel rail isnt necessary. sard's fit in the stock rail, you just need different o-rings (get them from repco) Oil cooler - necessary for track work, or if you do a lot of driving around, particularly now that summer is here balancer ? dunno You also need to look at things like clutch, tuning, labour, gauges, ebc, sump baffle, etc. There are lots of things to buy, but some of those you dont need for 500hp at the crank. if you are looking at 500rw/awhp, then you need to spend a fair bit more if you want it to last. And you will need something bigger than 2530's, unless you want to run 1.4 bar or more on the 2530's

post the a/f graph that will show us more. the graph you have posted is of no relevance to it running lean or rich

Adam Sorry, i was having too much fun. I do believe there are some photos on a zed forum, but there are only 3? Ports - Do you know if there are any more ?