Tommyk

Mona, is that why u like me better ? Coz i drive a gtr? Thats pretty shallow of you

In all seriousness, I was kidding If you happened to miss all the winks, thats not my fault

ebc, pfc and a tune happy ?

Dont prove me wrong guys. I Wont hear a word of it

It so is Look, a 34 gtr will cost you $60k Keeping your car will mean the following expenses: GTR 34 seats $2000 GTR wheels $2500 GTR motor $7000 AWD system $1500 GTR body kit $4000 GTR front and rear diffusers $1500 GTR Rear wing $500 GTR MFD $1000 GTR steering wheel $250 GTR trim $1000 GTR badges $150 GTR Xenons $4000 The fact that you will have a 3 year newer car = $10k So there you go. Theres your 55-60k worth

Nah a 34 gtr would be the cheapest option. Youd save money Thats what im doing

Cheapest option would be the rb30 bottom end with your 25 head (if its still okay) 2nd cheapest option would be the rb25 bottom end with your 25 head Next would be the rb30/26.

Back to the top. This is one of the best controllers on the market. It uses the same solenoid as in the top of the range blitz unit

Well now I know who to take my car to if I need someone to blow up the motor. Duncan would be my #2

Well tell us what you have done to it ?

need money for new car which wont be happening for another 3-6 months

U heard wrong. Its going to be an rb28 crate motor with a t04z i cant wait

A little birdie told me she was going a crate motor from mines

She did good. Real good Im impressed

sold

Back up to the top

whoops its clean now

probably no more than 10 bucks

Hey guys I bought this catch can from just jap a few months ago. It is in fairly good nick, few scratches and could do with a polish if you want it looking fancy. It is completely stuffed with stainless steel wool in a stocking, for the baffle I have larger PIRTEK connectors on the catch can rather than the crappy aluminimum stuff that was included. I also have a set of pirtek hoses which cost me $50 and the original garden hose that was included with the catch can. Because I no longer need it, and it has all the fittings and everything you need, im after $60. No offers. Its just a matter of connecting the hoses and bolting on. Pic is attached.

Hey guys Decided I will be selling my boost controller. It is practically brand new. No scratches on the control unit. Used for a period in my gtr for about 6 months. Held boost perfectly at the 1.3 bar I was running it at. Im after $450, no offers. This unit is practically brand new and comes with all parts, instruction manual, the box, all wiring, etc. Pics are attached PM me or reply to this thread if you are interested

http://www.takakaira.co.jp/performance/hks...sp?index=engine Have a scroll through. The step 2's have 10 or more mm of lift

Fair enough, i understand your point. I would definitely go a big single if it were possible .... Sydney really sucks for those sorts of things. I do have one more question remaining. I understand that higher lift cams put greater stress on the valvetrain, as suggested by Gary. Would it, however, be worth going 260 degree 10.8mm lift cams over the 10.25mm tomei cams ? Im willing to upgrade pretty much the complete valvetrain to compensate, if necessary. Suggestions ?

Hey guys, interesting thread. First of all, I think the reason why a lot of gtr owners stay low mount twins is the whole defects side of things. Discopotato03 - Do you honestly think that GT-RS turbos are too big for the rb30/26 ? I know the garrett 2530 also comes with a 0.86 housing option, but how would this affect ultimate power and output ? I will be doing a complete head recondition/build with aftermarket parts and will probably only be doing tomei retainers, valve springs and guides. Parts cost should be just under $1000 plus labour. Im also considering 260 @ 10.25mm cams, but also tempted to look into the 10.8mm lift cams, but im not sure whether the lift will be too high for a 2.8 stroked rb26 with highish comp ~ 8.8:1 running 2530 garretts @ 1.6 bar

That ticking sound seems to be common on a lot of the 32 gtr's. Get a comp and leakdown test done asap to confirm its not a spun bearing

I thought I might pop in here and ask a question also. I understand that tomei recommends 260 degree cams for all of their street bolt in turbos, and 10.25 lift for their 2530 sized combo - the 7660. What difference does the lift really make. I understand that it lets more air in/out without changing the cam overlap, but what does that mean in terms of driving. Lumpier idle, moved power band ? etc?