Tommyk

id say about 1.3-1.4 million yen would be your cheapies $1200 for shipping + extras

id also say power steering fluid

I think thats about standard price for a 93 model. It has some decent mods. Main thing would be to check it doesnt have any oil leaks, or other problems with the engine. Problems with the chassis. Whether the kms are genuine or not, etc. But ultimately, so long as you are happy with it, that is the main thing. I sold my 33 GTS-T a year ago for 18k. No mods, 95 model Series 1.5. In pretty good condition. So I suppose 16.5k for a 93 with mods isnt too bad either

I think either of them would look very good But i voted for the TE37's

So the MG mark is also gone ? That cant be right? I wouldve loved one of them little roadsters or the MG V8

interested, depending on the date, price, and how good this guy actually is. Whether its road or dyno tuned 4wd or 2wd, etc Emailing you anyway Cheers

strange never seen one before Must be custom installed - perhaps for aftermarket foglights as someone mentioned?

post up a photo Theres room for two coin slots on mine and then the gtr badge on the console on the right hand side of the coin slots

Id advise you to even get one 2nd hand off the forums, than get one by the name of Gizmo

Is this drift only ?

Rhett: I had a bit of a read around, and the standard O2 sensor (according to SK), is very slow with updates. Thats probably why it would be pretty useless ! Shan - will be depositing money any minute now

I had the same happen to me in my old 32 auto As a result, I upgraded to something with 4wd

Has anyone tried jaycar's digital mixture display kit ? For air/fuel ratios ? I know it wouldnt be that accurate for tuning, but what do people think of it http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...x=&SUBCATID=347

Has anyone tried jaycar's digital mixture display kit ? For air/fuel ratios ? I know it wouldnt be that accurate for tuning, but what do people think of it http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...x=&SUBCATID=347

I just used castrol power steering fluid. Anything that is DEXRON III should be fine

My running costs on my GTR arent much higher than on my gts-t Fuel bill is the same. Insurance is higher on the GTR. Maintenance is the same, etc. The only bigger cost with this car, is the fact that im modifying it

did you have sufficient fluid for the attessa system ?

I have received my power FC. Thanks !!!

Ive done a bit of trawling through old threads SK : mentioned this "If you intend to use 7,000 to 9,500 rpm, something around 272 to 288 degrees would be the go. For 5,500 to 8,000 rpm, around 260 to 272 and for 4,500 to 7,500 rpm then 248 to 260 is the go. That's a simplification, but you get the idea." Now, the standard cams are : Intake: 240 duration w/ .338 lift (8.58mm) Exhaust: 236 duration w/ .326 lift (8.28mm) Does this mean that they will give better power down low ? If I want better power down low, does it mean I should look at cams with a smaller duration? or am i just simply confused ? Thanks guys

Weird My lights came on, and dropped to 2wd mode when i didnt have sufficient fluid in the rear reservoir. (it was below the min mark).

WOW That looks good. Do you know what it looked like BEFORE you got the poncams installed ?

I just spoke to matt (hitman tuning guy) at penrith over the phone. He suggested I shouldnt be bothering with cams + gears unless i get larger than stock turbos. Im just trying to justify whether the extra tuning cost $2-300 for cam gears and the extra cost $400 in purchasing two cam gears is worth the performance increase. Is there even any point in purchasing tomei 260/260 9.1 cams over the stock units? These are attainable for about $900 Cheers Tom

Off the line, the GTT would be quicker, because it weighs something like 400kg less. If you were racing someone on a private track on a highway, then the XR6T would win. Quarter mile times I think are pretty similar. The XR6T will FEEL quicker

100-110 rwkw in completely stock form is also what ive heard and seen

There really isnt much room between the radiator and the intercooler, with the air con stuff in there. Im going to take the front bumper off and have a quick look with mounting it behind the brake ducts from the front lip spoiler Burto - I still need to get that front pipe off you, and return those pads.