Tommyk

I would be interested in the front pipes but not for that price. What sort of front pipes are they ? Are these the mild steel 70x2 - 80 pipes ?

something sounds definitely wrong whether my cars were stock, or worked (32,33 gts-t and 33 gtr) i never returned any more than 15L/100. Try to keep off boost and see if that fixes your problem ? If it does, then you're a leadfoot. If not, you have other issues which could be related to car running rich or o2 feedback not enabled, etc ?

I feel more compassion toward someone who has admitted their crime, than to someone who has denied it wholeheartedly. Hes guilty, he got busted. I feel sorry that the poor bloke will now have to do the hard yards. If its the only way he will learn, then fair enough. Thats what the LAW is there for. My suggestion for 'next time' was a case of early morning SARCASM. I dont care who the bloke is and I dont know him. I couldnt care less. He wanted some advice/help/assistance. If you cant offer it, keep your trap shut. If he wanted an answer as to why he shouldnt have street raced, he would have asked. I think its time to close this thread

A lot of you guys do really suck. I feel sorry for the guy who got busted, but thats life.You knew there was a chance it could happen. It happened and now youve got to face up to the consequences. Decide what you will plea. If the cop did not see you clearly or does not have enough 'proof' that you were street racing, and has no video footage or camera/speeding evidence, then you may be able to get away with it. Its your word against his. If it wasnt a highway patrol car, then there will be absolutely no primary evidence other than the coppers word. Get a good lawyer, make sure you have a good story. If you outrightly deny it, you may get away with it. Its their word against yours. While it may be a case of guilty until proven innocent, prove that you werent street racing. Use your head and come up with something, or pay a lawyer to do it. My suggestion for next time - Buy a quicker car and make sure you dont get pulled up !

Ok well lets see Ive been trying to source an n1 block for the last month. In Australia, nissan parramatta has 1 block. they want 3700 for it. TRADE PRICE Justjap dont have stock. Give them a call. Hi octane have no stock. Sorry I believe they have a gt block for 6k. no thanks I called my contacts in japan. Nissan japan has NO STOCK. Go on. Give them a call. You will find there are none. Nissan has no plans to recommit to further production. There are some specialised workshops in japan that have a small amount of inventory left, but they sell these as parts of complete motors. You may be able to find a 2nd hand on yahoo japan, or at a 2nd hand parts shop. My japanese parts broker has quoted me 200,000 yen plus shipping for a brand new n1 and this is after extensive searching and there is apparently a 4 month wait invovled ? So they definitely are around, if you have the money and time and patience. At the end of the day, Paul believes you dont need one, so dont get one. When you start losing coolant and start to wonder why, come back to this thread. Im not saying it will happen or it wont happen, but im not a mechanic. When I do my build, I dont want to pull out my motor again for another 100,000 kms. Paul on the other hand can pull out his engine, refit a new block with pistons rods and crank. New bearings, new rings, new headgasket and new bolts. Oh and the pleasure of running it in again. I dont have the mechanical ability to do that. NOR do i want to be spending any more money after. Do it once, do it right. Believe what you want to believe. Pauls running 460awkw through his block and its fine. You should listen to him

Change of plans Richard. Its a secret Not sure about stock block thickness

Just a bit more Consider running an 86.5mm bore. That gives you just under 5mm wall thickness on either side of the piston, with an n1 block. Although I dont know the wall thickness of a standard block, based on the pictures, they look to be about half that of the gt block. Assuming that, you only have a 3mm wall thickness with a 86 mm bore and less than that if you go 86.5mm. Carrying around 100hp per cylinder, i wouldnt trust it to last terribly long with less than 3mm of wall thickness at those sorts of cylinder pressures. Food for thought I suppose. Does anyone know the standard block wall thickness ???

Well its up to you. You can go with your standard block, but I dont like that idea. Nissan ran endurance tests on 05u and 24u blocks. They found 9/10 standard blocks cracked after 2000kms of testing on 05u blocks. 0/10 24u n1 blocks cracked after this endurance testing. I dont care what you say, but have a look at this. It should convince you otherwise. A comparison with a gt and a 05u block. I know I certainly would not go for an 05u if i was running 86.5 or 87mm bore, or even running big power through it. And 'Doughboy's' block is gone, and will be in my capable hands on thursday

Hey mate Ive sent you a pm

Incorrect The odo reading is stored in a chip in the cluster unit. Swapping the cluster unit for another will change the number of kms. Its not coded in the ecu. If it was, a power FC change would affect the km reading. Check the bolts in the dash to see if your cluster has been removed or not

doubt it would be a real z tune.

get a proper set of tyres. spending 300 per corner should get you a good set of tyres

I have my 3 month old blitz dsbc spec R which I no longer need Im after $400. Still have the box, manuals and all the other stuff. Let me know if you are interested?

Sorry, I was in a bit of a sarcastic mood

No biggie your airbag didnt even come out Good luck with the rebuild. (buy a lotto ticket)

Jerry but the rb30 is unbreakable. I have heard it is good for over 1000ps !

So how much are you looking at spending all up ? That will determine the quality of the build and components

Correct. it uses a spacer to get the capacity of 2998cc

Jerry but rev a stock head and bottom end 26 and it wont last very long at 10000 rpm either. I doubt the rb30 would last a few hundred kms at 10000 rpm. One go and I assume it would be a big bang. And that would be on the dyno while tuning it

There is a 3 litre stroker kit, but that involves lots of money (os giken) Your best and cheapest bet is to go an rb30 bottom end with a 25 or 26 head. If you want something that revs a bit better, get an rb26 block and get a stroker kit for that (tomei or hks 2.8) However, that will still cost you a fair whack of dollars

Forget about the staged setup. If its going to be a drag motor, why would you need a staged turbo setup anyway. Look at what Brett (buster) has done with his rb26/30 setup and try to copy it

Dont you need to organise a container for this ? Im looking at shipping some large items over, but cant justify the 20foot container cost ?

i would not go another mitsubishi. I had one, even though it was a lancer, and wouldnt definitely not go another one, even if it was the gto. It may be a nice car, but damn hard to work on with the engine rotated around the wrong way. However, it is up to you

mate they are no longer available. I can barely find a standard n1 block for a decent price. they want 3700 here. In japan they were sold from nissan for 120,000 yen ~ 1500 bucks plus shipping and taxes. For the price of a n1 block here i can get a gt block shipped (but they arent available anymore)

nissan dont sell em