sleptema

Semi track day tomorrow. Local car club has booked out a skid pan and a small track for the afternoon and needed a spot filled. So flushed by brakes with new fluid, all the arms are on and getting adjusted today. Everything went on easy except the HICAS elimination kit which needs new bushes, so old ones need to be pressed out and apparently it is a mammoth task (hubs off) so that has been put on hold for now. Would have really like the HICAS off, but oh well. New belts also went on. Picking up some territory steelies (17x7.5+35) to go on the rears that'll hopefully light up quite nicely. Will hopefully get some snaps up later this week.

Is it school holidays over there too?

Touche, but it's a little rich coming from someone without a pic at all.

New belts and solid engine mounts ordered as apparently they were flogged. New boot lid is going to the painters this week and I'll swap that over while I'm on break. Engine plans have slightly changed. I picked up a cheap high mount manifold and q45 afm, and I will be getting an adapter plate for the aacv made up to suit a greddy plenum. So I will be remodeling the bay a bit, and I will put the q45 in the cooler piping between turbo and fmic for (hektik fully sick uleh) dose. Hopefully a retune with adjustable cam gears and previously mentioned mods should show me a nice 380, but hoping for 400. Will also be a good chance to take the turbo off and see how she is coping with the abuse. May give my transmission fluid a change as well, or at least look at it. I ordered HICAS elimination kit, front toe arms and ball joins, front and rear camber arms. All those adjustable arms should be going in tomorrow and a wheel alignment on Thursday. Should hopefully sort out most of my camber wear issues. Car is quickly getting to a point that I am happy with. Will start searching bigger brake kits soon, maybe braid all my brake lines as well and get a master cylinder stopper.

The comic sans in your sig makes me want to slit my wrists.

Hi everyone. Been searching a fair bit and cannot find them advertised anywhere, but in some of the installs of a greddy, Pavel made an adapter plate to make the standard r34 aacv fit the r33 slot. I have messaged Pavel, but he hasn't been online for a while now. Is there anyone who can make one as it would probably be a lot less stuffing around than sourcing and modifying an r33 unit? I would have thought the adapter plate would have been a common selling item with most people wanting to tidy up their bay with a cheap freddy. Cheers.

Pretty sure you mentioned that it does when put in gear like 4-5 times. Righto, thanks mate, wasn't completely sure about that until the 4th time I thought you were just pulling our legs. What fluid did you use? And how did you change the oil? I have heard of people running the wrong oil (wrong additives/weight) and it would actually weld the transmission and diff together after a while. If it attempts to go into gear it's not the selector. I'd say she's done farked.

"I heard supras from 10 years ago running them, thought it would be a good option now" Many better turbos that will make all the power intended, without having a potato for a power curve.

If your car isn't starting, you should probably rule out the start circuit before you play around with the ecm. Battery has >12 v with everything off? Battery AND starter have >10.5 v while cranking? Start wire has ~12 v whilst trying to crank? I would check these first. If these are all correct, try giving the starter a light tap with a hard faced hammer - if it then starts, you need a rebuild.

I'd like to think if I didn't post the video, you would have taken it with you to the grave. Haha

Short term: Just the little fixes that I am doing currently. I don't want to spend anything substantial on it until my loan is gone.. Probably be done in the next 6 months. Long term: I will probably try to get 500rwhp from the stock bottom end. I plan to get there with high mount manifold, FFP, adjustable cam gears, ev14 injectors, link g4 ecu (as my tuner has said will meet my needs) and e85 conversion. Will get larger brakes on as well, as stopping will be important Once the bottom end pops I will probably go for the 30 bottom end, and a gtx35 or similar and go for 600. I would like to get a few track days in but on my current FIFO roster I seem to be missing every one that is planned.

Sorry it's a bit late, and the quality isn't the best. Sounds so much better in the car... http://youtu.be/QeEmv-UdDCo

Right, school holidays. I get it now.

If you are sure you have installed correctly - cluster is broken more than likely. Was the cluster new or used? If the old cluster works, then everything car side should be fine.

I am making 350rwhp with this turbo @ 18psi, can upload a video of boost progression & sound if you would like me to Ben?

Here is a picture of the boot. New one is being picked up Sunday. Oil cooler and filter relocation in. Only goes over 80 deg now with a fair beating, whereas before it'd creep to over 90 just cruising. And it holds pressure nicely. I will eventually cut the hoses down to size and get new fittings for them as these are only cheap china and there is a lot of excess hose. Will replace the oil and filter this weekend again (changed when did the installation, but not sure how long the cooler was sitting for before I put it in) Mechanic said my passenger engine mount is gone, time for nismo solids I reckon.

Pretty sure I have the same turbs on my car. And yes, it sound farkin mint. Starts making a nice sound way before it starts to make power so it sounds like a large turbo spooling. Which makes all the teens at the bus stop wet.

I can confirm the TC throttle open by default.

Always thought q45 was more power than z32. Oh well.

HI guys. Hopefully this build thread will last a little longer than my last 34, hopefully won't make the same mistakes as I did on the previous. Bought this January 2014 after searching for a few months. Owned by an older gentleman (who didn't know much but had cash), with receipts, import papers, all the goods. Only 106k kms on it and fresh timing belt service, and a very good price for the amount of engine work done. Specs include intake/exhaust, FMIC, 600cc injectors, fuel pump, type a poncams, powerfc, z32 and garret gt30 @18psi. Making a fairly responsive 350rwhp. I ended up doing a compression test for piece of mind after I bought it, and got between 150 and 155 over all 6. Engine pulled hard, started and ran great. The intention of this car is to just be a weekend cruiser. First point of call - put my old plates on 6000k HIDs high and low. Also painted the interior trim. Will be professionally hydrodipping it later on, this is just a temp because the "sticky paint" was really bad It was about this point I started noticing some really dodgy stuff going on. Nothing major, and nothing to do with the engine performance, which I still stand by. I call this segment: "Things that I have found" - "Why I believe he has done so" Wrong size battery for mount - Because I have no idea (you can also see the quality of my ballast install, which was the reason for the photo initially) He has hacksawed the gear shift knobs' thread off, and rethreaded a new knob on, lowering it by around 30mm. He also replaced stock gaiter with this abomination. - Why? Because F**K YOU that's why. Have no idea why this was done. But I sourced a new shift arm locally, and bought a new gaiter, and better feel shift knob. You can also see my half assed paint job here. Drivers side wiper arm had snapped, so he had just taped it back together - lazy I guess? It was summer, I probably would have done the same thing. New arm sourced. The worst of the lot. The boot would not "pop up" when you pressed the handle or used the key, but if you lifted it slightly it would. I removed the trim to find out someone had COMPLETELY filled the boot with expandable foam. The rear light had also been welded over from the inside, and a new light had to be put in the rear windscreen. - My guess is that previous previous owner had a sub, and to stop the boot from vibrating he decided that weighing it down with 3kgs of foam would help. On the plus side, with my sub in there, it certainly does not rattle. At all. Ever. (pics to come) Replaced stock gauges with nismo. Will be replacing dash if one comes up locally. Bonnet struts. Which work perfectly because the bonnet latch height made me hit my head, this raises it that little bit so my head clears it Decent fitting rims, and tien super street coilovers Got an oil cooler going in today as temps do get high, even in winter. Going to try a different brand of oil as well, going to try Nulon 10w40 Got front tie rods and ball joints (as my FL was seized), HICAS elimination kit and front and rear cambers arms coming as there is -2.5 deg camber all round. Have also replaced that $50 head unit with a decent one with bluetooth, and put a small sub in the boot. More to come.

I'd try source a new male plug w/ pins from Haltech or wherever. Cut it back and start again. Poor connections raise resistance, altering sensor readings from true. If you didn't want to solder, maybe source some weatherproof connectors like deutsch. We use them at work and installed correctly, can outlive the life of the machine in some pretty harsh environments. We prefer if possible to plug/receptacle as solder joins can become brittle and hard over time, and if there is any vibration can crack.

Mate she's good for a 10 sec pass.

Not to hijac the thread or anything.. But go sit on a cactus mate. Car looks awesome, and 30k would be a steal.

Yes.

Maybe his throttle is getting stuck? Dunno why it hasn't been mentioned before.