sleptema

Varrstoen 2.2.1 flat black 18x9.5+22 fronts 225/40 18x10.5+30 rears 245/45 Guards rolled, all the camber.

Rota p45r2 in gunmetal 18x9.5+20 all round 225/40 fronts, 245/40 rears (pictured is 245/45 though) Guards rolled, currently in process of getting camber arms as there is 2.5 deg all round.

Right foot for braking. Left foot is for clutching, not braking. When you learn to drive a manual car, you can't be using your left foot for both. I recently had to teach my little brother to drive, who has raced SKAA Junior Karts since he was 10, and he has always used his left foot for braking. Initially, when he was learning in an automatic, it was hard to get him to brake the habit, (haha see what I did there) but once I got him a manual car it all clicked for him and he doesn't use his left foot even in his car which is automatic. The only time a left foot should be used for braking is burnouts.

If you leave it stock height with reasonable tyre profiles, you won't need a roll at all. But that offset is fairly aggressive, and if you lowered at all you would need guard rolling and 2 deg negative camber to fit inside the guards. And yes, 225's sit nicely on a 9.5. Refer to previous page, I have 225/40 on 9.5+20.

Nothing is wrong with my CAS, but after I stalled my car it wouldn't start either. Had to crank and wait a while.

If you go into the "more reply options" you can upload and attatch, rather than linking via a site.

Hhhnnnnnnggg.

You'd be surprise how often hitting things fix them. Alternator not charging? Give her a little tap with a hammer. Starter not cranking? Give her a decent crack with a hammer. Temporary fixes only though.

Turn your car off. Wait, turn on IGN and listen. Does it make the sound for a few seconds then stop? If so, it's the fuel pump. Also, your fuel pump if standard is in the tank at the rear of the vehicle. If it is coming from the rear, I would suggest it is that.

Aggressive offset is always aggressive. If you can deal with the extra attention from the popo for wheels hanging out the guards, go for it. Mine personally are, but I am a rebel without a cause.

Genius!

Hard to convert it to awd tho?

Body doesn't look all that wide either. Just a gtr front end conversion maybe?

I like where this thread is going. Also, how god damn sick would it have been to be the person responsible to mod and design the cars for that movie?

Or a gt-4. Very much worth dropping an rb26 into them

This question gets asked on a weekly basis almost. Check out the other threads that were posted and make your mind up.

This is going to sound like the compressor surge debate. Half say yes, half say no.

That is one very aggressive looking body kit. GLWS..

Anything with a turbo will make Hondas eat dirt. But i have been in my mates civic, and for a 4cyl N/A, they go incredibly hard. The autech s15 (high comp, high lift cams N/A) are also quite quick, but the s15 is quite heavy in comparision to a civic.

Stop being a moron. Go back 1 page, and look. Oh wow there is 9.5+20 there, ON AN R34! Oh and he has written the mods to fit!! It's almost like this thread is full of information or something.

Skyline model = r34 GTT Wheel diameter = 18 Wheel width =9.5 Wheel offset =+20 Tyre size = 225/40 fronts, 245/45 rears Modifications to fit = Guard roll all round, rears will be dropped down to 245/40 and camber arms installed They are poking about 10mm fronts, less on rears as they are cambered in with natural lowering. Will get an alignment done and report back.

The voltage may rise as it is supposed to, but the base reading when the car is off may be out of calibration, as it may think there is air flowing when it is off.. It's just a thought.

I have heard that the wiring is different, and you would need to rewire the GT interior into GTT ECU.

You're going to find a better answer than this, but my 2 cents: It sounds like your AFMs are giving your ECU readings without the car running. Could be wires have corroded the insulation and are touching, or the actual AFMs themselves are cactus. The way to eliminate this would be to get specifications on what the AFM should be reading at certain RPMs, and with the car off, idling and high idle, check the resistance/voltage at the AFM plugs. If you are getting the same reading at idle as you are with it off, you have an issue. Maybe the reason it runs fine with them disconnected is that the engine doesn't pay attention to the values anymore because of the erratic values given, and just relies off the map sensor. The AAC (auxiliary air control valve) gives the engine a small amount of air while starting and I believe also helps sets your idle RPM. With this disconnected, the mixtures will be wrong and the engine could stop. I would have thought taking it to your tuner to get him to connect to the ECU would provide quick and reliable results on what sensor is doing what, as we will know what the car is supposed to be doing. I'm not sure about your fuel pump, but it sounds like it thinks the engine is running so continuously tries to pump, this could be your AFMs giving the car false readings as well, but I am not sure how your ECU knows how the engine is running.

"nawwww but guyyyysssss"