sleptema

It will be cheaper and quicker for you to buy a GTT; than to do an engine transplant, plus all the extra needed upgrades as mentioned above. Plus the wiring looms are different. Save your money and buy one already turbo'd.

Where did you get those lips from? Actually makes the front bumper look sexy.

Better off hiring a professional dent remover. They work with magic and curses to remove dents, and are well worth the money.

I believe it is just clipped in. If you have a 4dr, pull away the door seal and it should allow you to get your fingers behind the panel. Yes you are going to have to give it a fair pull. What exactly are you trying to do? Not many jobs require the panels to be pulled off.

I would have thought a quick trip to a tuner should be able to sort out all your issues. He should be able to look at all the values and see what's off, and also look at your tune itself. Sounds like it's dumping fuel on low loads, is there black smoke coming out when it is loss of power? Not sure if all that has been covered above. Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents.

>rb26 >managed to stuff oil pump Sitting on limiter eh?

Full titanium will set you back a fair bit. What is it exactly you dislike about your exhaust?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

I noticed on the diagram they have it on the outside, and I notice NYTSKY had them on the inside. Wasn't sure what way to go and didn't want it protruding. Will re-arrange later. Cheers.

Just finished fitting. No issues, 15 minutes of my time. Feels good man.

I could be wrong.

Erm, does it even have a factory immobilizer? I believe they didn't? The one I imported I had to put one in myself to comply with laws.

As above, genuine nissan coils are the best bet, many people run splitfires because I believe they are cheaper and just as effective. Protip: you're not going to make decent power out of an n/a. Short of shaving the head and increasing compression, there isn't anything that will give you significant gains. When you are off your P's, get a GTT. If it is missing on idle, unplug each coil one by one until you find that the one you unplugged does not make it run worse.

Heat the springs up?

Whether or not you are attached to the car, that isn't what the thread is about. You asked how hard and if anyone has done it. Someone has, and said don't. You don't want to stuff around with turboing an N/A. If you like the car, remove all the parts you like about it, and replace them on a turbo one.

If anyone is a fan of trance/dance/electronic check out Ben Nicky - End of Year Countdown (EOYC) 2013, seriously one of the best mixes I have ever listened to. https://soundcloud.com/bennicky/ben-nicky-eoyc-yearmix-2013

With a black car, if the paint is in that kind of condition, to get a professional to cut it back so there are no marks, then keep it waxed to protect the paint? My first black skyline, I used to cut it back every time it got like this (like an absolute idiot) and I ended up destroying paint in some of the areas where it was light from factory. Trying to not make the same mistake with this one haha.

PMed.

Bass pumping > no sound at all haha

What's the paint like on the rear bumper?

Assuming old amp was actually broken and he hasn't destroyed something removing it all. I would have done a proper diagnosis on the old amp before removing it TBH.

The previous set up could have been done 2 ways: 1) Head unit -> amp -> new wires to speakers OR 2) Head unit -> amp -> back to [head unit area] and use the original wires to speakers Option 2 just means you need to remove the head unit and replace the wires coming out of the head unit that go to the amp, and change them so the head unit directly feeds the speakers. Generally the wires you are looking for are white, white/black, grey, grey/black, purple, purple/black and green, green/black out of the head unit. Option 1 means you will need to do the same as option 2, but also reconnect the original wires onto the speakers. If this sounds too complicated, I would suggest going to a car audio shop. I wouldn't pay more than 1-2 hours labour to fix that.

Screw the cool crowd, I just prefer the look of having no gap between tyre and wheel guard. Just looks 4x4 spec like that. Like I said above, not to say it isn't a great looking car, just personal opinion.

Off topic a little, but that R needs like 2-3 inches more low. Not to say it isn't spectacular though, cause it is.

Rb's aren't very heavy. Anything rated to a v8 will be more than enough. I just got a sidcrome one for $130, I think it's rated to 430kgs, and I had a rb30 on it fine.