sleptema

What makes me spit it is the xr6 turbos. Those barra motors are so f**king fast. I'm at the point where v8's don't phase me too much, but those fords can haul some ass with some small mods.

FS: rb25/30 Pretty much everything needed to do a dohc turbo 3L conversion. Both head and bottom end good condition, but could definitely use a clean. No conversion processes have been done - block vct oil feed/new pulley, etc Head came off low km r33 s2 (apparently Hyperdrive supplied it) 99% complete - comes with manifolds, cams, covers, fuel rail and injectors etc. Only things I can't see are coilpacks and valley cover. 30 bottom end off patrol with 180k kms. Only taken out for conversion. Head gasket still intact, bores and piston heads look good condition, etc. Comes with all spare parts that are laying near it for them. Bought to do a conversion on my car, but as I have an r34 I wanted a neo head (didn't research properly when buying this) and after adding up all the costs, I will just run the neo in my car as there is nothing wrong with it, for now. Asking $800. Located SOTR, WA.

Oh what it was like to be young! I bought my first skyline when I was 18, after driving a 2L n/a camry for 2 years. I thought the power was AMAZING. Like putting my foot down would scare me. Hahahaha. Now I'm ok with my 260rwkw and I am trying to chase more power. It's like a heroine addiction, nothing was like that first hit and you are always trying to chase it...

Assuming no camber, it will be inside the guards by 10mm or so.

It fluctuates a little between states.. So it can depend where you are. But for 12k, there is no reason you can't find a turbo auto. There will be a gem every now and then, and that is how I bought mine. Most manual turbos in WA are going for 18k ATM, with minor mods like ecu, boost controller, exhaust, etc - nothing major. I bought a 260rwkw with all the fruit for 16k, with 106k kms on it. Obviously if you are over east, you can't get a turbo, am I right? In WA atm, there is an auto r34 with repairable front end damage (just new radiator, and front bar apparently) for 8k.

Derp!

Even though it is a sensor, not a sender (difference being 3 wires, not 2) it will still be changing resistance, only the ECU will be interpreting these values as a voltage, not a resistance, but the test should still be the same.

If the car won't start: 1) Check battery voltage, you need at least 10.5v while key on start (yes actually turn it to START, even though you think nothing is happening, what could actually be happening is there isn't enough voltage to bring the solenoid in to engage the starter) 2) check fuses 3) check start relay (30 needs power, 85 and 86 need to energize a coil, so a test light between them with the key on start should light it up)

Both will be NTC thermisters, or negative temperature co-efficient. Which basically means when it is cold, it will read a high resistance, and as the temperature rises, the resistance will drop. Easiest way to check these would be consulting the workshop manual for values dependent on temperature, and using a multimetre between earth and signal and reading the resistance. If the resistance drops and is within range, the sender isn't the issue. To check the gauge, either use a gauge tester, or earth the signal wire breifly and the gauge should move to hot. (as earthing it will give very little resistance to ground, simulating a hot reading)

I'd agree with above, just get it retuned, dial the boost way back, fix the afrs. But it is a good opportunity to do an e85 conversion.. If your o2 sensors are shot, or the cat is aftermarket, or you have larger injectors, the stock ECU will be absolutely useless. Probably why you had the 10x emissions.

Up for sale is an r33 rb25det head, 99% complete - comes with manifolds, injectors, rail, cams, rocker covers. Only things I can see missing are the coilpacks. Head does have VCT. Apparently came off a low km r33, supplied by Hyderdrive in Malaga. Was going to do a 25/30 but decided on a neo head instead. Pickup Willetton, WA. Or will post at buyers expense.

This should also be effecting your park lights as well. Step 1: check fuse - actually see if it is popping, don't just replace. Sounds like you have shorted something. Wiring a head unit isn't hard, but because it blew, you majorly f**ked something up. What I would do, remove the head unit, all the shit you put in, and check the harness and make sure no wires are touching where you pulled it out. Replace fuse and try again.

Obviously I want cams to make the most of what the engine has to offer, but I thought if I could get a lumpy idle it would be nice as well. I am not familiar with tuning, and I wasn't aware leaning it out would cause a lumpy idle. I worded what I wanted to say really poorly in the previous post. I am still trying to learn, sorry if I sound like a tool.

Well I wanted to sacrifice a little low end power for wank factor of overlapping on idle. My mate has the HKS step 2's on his gtr (272's, 10.5 or something) and the idle is just magnificent and lumpy. It's hard to choose between right cams for the turbo/engine, or the sound of a lumpy idle. I understand I will get a new hole torn for saying it, but IMO a nice idle makes a car have more presence. Obviously if it makes low rpm a pig, I would rather go for drive ability.

So that is a no to running 26 cams in a neo head? I'm finding it hard to get upgrade options on neo cams, other than tomei poncams. And with the VCT, isn't there a limit on the lift/duration they could possibly run?

9.5+20 is pretty close to that for GTST.

R34 rb25det neo Tomei Type A poncams FMIC Stock ex and in manifolds Garret 3076 @ 18psi 98 octane Bigger injectors and fuel pump SAFC boost controller Power FC 260rwkw / 350 rwhp

Above is right, te37's. Probably GTR fitment, which is 18x10+12? Anyone back me up?

Man this is so ridiculously insane for a rwd, but I love the attention to detail. I also love "lack of funds" but you go straight for an rb34 build hahaha. Great work on this, it's nice to see a GTT get some loving.

Why are you asking for our opinion? If YOU like them then YOU should get them. Who cares what everyone else thinks, our cars are a reflection of ourselves.

Cheers for all the info guys. Will take all of that into consideration.

Sorry, but I am going to be 'that guy' here. So if I was to forge my neo, so I can run more boost, would I need to change the crank and rods? Obviously pistons are a must, but if I balance the crank, and the rods (if they are 26) should be pretty strong ay?

Wait, the 33 and 34 heads are different. The neos are smaller cc's right? So if you put 34 pistons on, the comp ratio would be really low on a 33 head right? But you have a neo head? You just want to know if the 33 block is the same as r34 yeah?

Yeah for sure. Cheers for the info! Wasn't sure where that feed came from.. Yeah I may just take the cluster out and re-solder all the pins on the connectors, and I will look for dry joins. Still, the ABS and TCS light is a mystery though.

So this morning I went to drive and when I turned on my car the tachometer would not work, and the ABS and TCS light stayed on. Turned off, waited 30 seconds, and tried again with same result. Obviously there was an issue, so I shut her off and drove my daily, as I was already late I couldn't afford to sit there and diagnose it. I came home in the afternoon and decided to check it out. Only, it is now working fine. YAY FOR INTERMITTENT! So a few things: - I drove it to work on Monday with no issues, been sitting since then. Never happened before. - It was raining this morning, and it was early when I started it (morning dew early). It has never been an issue before, but obviously in the afternoon, all the wetness and moisture has disappeared. - ABS and TCS rely on wheel speed sensors, that is what connects them, but the not sure how the tacho receives it's signal. - Every other gauge including triple gauges worked, and back lights worked. Feel free to ask me any questions. The only place I would start looking would be behind the dash, but honestly I have no idea. I will try and start it tomorrow morning early and hopefully nothing is wrong and it was just an omen to not drive my car for some reason today. Cheers.