sleptema

Yeah, but the rears will poke 10mm+ Flared guards are needed, or slight camber and stretch. Rolling is needed all round unless you want 4x4 spec.

Dude, if they are sticking out the guards that much I don't think you have the right specs. I got 9.5+22 on my fronts and it was only JUST outside the guards, maybe 5-10mm. Even with 15mm spacers yours shouldn't be that wide...

They should do, as the standard wheels are 7.5+40. Not going to say definite yes, but if you are going drifteks, get a better offset than 8.5+35. Go for something like 9.5+20, more concave and aggressive look.

Fog lights are yellow, for the fact that you can see better in high scintillation environments - eg fog, heavy rain, but for everyday driving at night, I believe 6000k, gives the best light output. 6000k is hardly blue at all, it is pure white, while 4300k is cool white, borderline yellow, or 3000k which most halogens are. I have never bought eBay shit, and never will for the facts that you have stated above. I like how you are so quick to jump to silly conclusions, and are so quick to shoot down every one elses opinion. And my dash lights are supposed to be white. I have no idea why they have the blue tinge to them.

Because some people want higher visibility at night, over 5000k is considered F&F/ricer shit? That's a very narrow minded view. I have issues with my sight (multiple eye surgeries) and at night I sometimes find it hard to see the road, so I give myself the best chance with the brightest possible headlights and proper aiming. Those are my headlights. They are fairly bright, and the picture really doesn't do them justice. My Internal ballasts had the wiring cut, and replaced with H1 halogens for compliance. I replaced the halogens with HID's and mounted the ballasts under the light assembly.

I believe that bit is called Torx Tamper Resistant. But I think you'll find the dust cover just twists off, and that bolt is to secure the surround to the light assembly. It's just tight as hell, or that was the case with mine. As for your lights... With the standard halogen I was having similar sight issues, but by the sounds of it you have 8000+k HID lights. Maximum light output is achieved at 6000k, which is true white, 8000 is blue tinge, and 10000 is basically blue, and 12 being purple, and so on.. I have 6000k on my r34, and they are brilliant. I see EVERYTHING. So it may be a case of poor quality/chinese bulbs and ballasts. Personally I would buy your own, and I don't know how the ballasts are mounted in yours (factory is in the actual housing) but mine had been cut so I had to externally mount mine. I am going out tonight in the car, I will take a picture of my lights and throw them up here for you. And if you are going to buy HID's, I will recommend "Delonix". They are over here in Perth, but are fairly cheap, and very customer satisfaction orientated. I accidentally ordered the wrong globes, and she came on a Saturday to swap them for me. I think I got 6000k 35w low and 6000k 55w high for $260. It could also be an issue with how they are aimed, but you should be getting flashed by on coming cars if it was that bad. Hope I helped.

I never ever said OEM or yellow jackets aren't good, but I stand by splitfires and have had many good reports with people using splitfires on rb25's without any issue, some running in excess of 500hp. As far as I am concerned, in the community that I am involved in, Splitfires take the cake. You are obviously entitled to your opinion and only when people express their opinions can we all learn from each other, so I am glad for your input. Now the OP has 3 different options to choose from, and using the data he can select the coils that is going to suit his application, rather than just my opinion. Oh and 18psi on rb25, and 13.5/10 on another for 2 years of abuse.

Before I washed my engine - never ever had an issue with my car (even after running 12psi) After I washed it, and let it dry (probably also because i just kept running my car with the coils wet and letting it bog down) they would misfire every now and then at high rpm high boost, in the cold as well. Splitfires are widely regarded as the best aftermarket coils for rb25s. They are cheaper than stock coils from nissan, and will last just as long, and will handle more boost. I think I picked up my set for $460 delivered. I think nissan wanted $120 each. EACH. Air dry is the best method, but if you have an air compressor and an air director, that will speed up the process. Just make sure the coils and the valley is completely dry and it won't misfire again.

Factory boost is 7psi. On a factory tune it will have no flat spots, and will provide the best economy. Obviously if you are searching for power, this would be a different story. Pick one, power or economy. Also, as mentioned above - your coils are wet. Let them dry. If you have factory coil packs, replace them with splitfires eventually. After I washed my engine bay, the stock coils were never the same after I got them wet.

Glad to hear you finally found it. You see now why I asked what you were messing with when the fuse started popping

Sorry man I'd love to help a little more, but there's only so much I can type online. It seems to be a harness issue, but it'd be nice to see some other input. I am more of a hands on kind of guy, if I was in tassie, I would love to come look at it.

I believe if you open the boot, squat down, and look directly in.. You should see it. It may be covered by a panel of felt/boot material, but yeah.

I mean, the ones inside the brackets will have continuity to each other, but NOT to the others. So 36 should have continuity to 37, but not to 38/39/40/etc. Or at least that is what the diagram is saying. So inside the switch it will have 3 sets of contacts, each separate with each other. For example - (36/37) will be low beams, (38/39) will be one of the switching feeds for high beams, and (40/41/42) will be dash/tail/parkers. For the harness chasing - look what wires are coming from pins 40/41/42. Get colours/numbers, because somewhere, one of them is rubbing on an earth. Chase the harness back (look through the schematic, it may say where each connector is on the vehicle) and disconnect plug, and try turning the lights on. When the fuse/circuit breaker pops, it is in that last section of harness. If anyone knows a better way to look for a short, feel free to post. Obviously this is time consuming and is the last resort. Actually just thinking about that for one second... disconnect all globes on that circuit, including the dash plugs, so NOTHING is connected. Then try continuity testing each of the pins to earth. One of them theoretically should be grounded if it was shorting to earth, that may help give you a start on where to look. When did this start to occur? Out of the blue randomly? Or after working on the car?

Here is the diagram I believe to be the switch. It's hard to read, but it seems 41 is the power in. At off, nothing should be on. At 1 click, 41 supplies power to 42 (through what looks like a light? Maybe the switch illumination?) and 40. And at 2 clicks, 38 -> 39, and 36->37. And, there should be no continuity between (36/37) - (38/39) - (40/41/42) it seems. The plug diagram is there as a reference, and what you're saying about the top and bottom having continuity seems to be correct? I don't believe the switches are too hard to rip apart and actually look inside. It should be just a series of contacts, or rockers/springs/ball bearings. And yes, it does sound like a short to ground then. Are you having any other electrical issues? Just so you can know where to start looking. You can go about this 2 ways. Easiest being just a visual inspection of the harnesses. Try to find a harness that has been worn through somewhere - like in high vibration and heat areas, like the engine bay. And if your car has been lowered, look under the front guards as I know there is a hardness running there somewhere. The other is unplugging the harnesses, working back from the switch. Keep chasing it until you find where the fuse pops. Take a quick look at gauges/cluster and see if you can see anywhere it could be shorting. http://www.crackedhelmet.ca/R32_Skyline/R32%20GTR%20Service%20Manual.pdf Is the link to the R32 manual I found. You may want to look through that, and see what else comes off that circuit. It's hard to read the schematic, so printing it out and taping pages together may make it easier. Hope I helped.

Not 100% sure, but I believe off that stalk, there should be high beams (when you dip the stalk) and indicators.. Right? Or is there a secondary switch not located on the stalk? Sorry, not sure what r32 interior looks like. But the way I would go about testing this is remove your tail lights and park lights, and if you have a circuit breaker, put that in the fuse instead. Turn on your parkers and see if the fuse blows now. If it does - more then likely the problem will be in the interior of the car (not always, but we have opened the circuit to everything outside, so unless it is a short to ground, it shouldn't blow the fuse.) If it doesn't blow, put in globes 1 by 1, until it pops again. This should give you a good indication as to where it could be. It could even potentially be one of the globes itself drawing too much current. In the r32 service/workshop manual it will have a little box diagram, showing which pins should have continuity at which position. And just to be sure, the plug should be unplugged from the car harness when testing continuity as it will backfeed if it isn't isolated.

Short answer: Yes. Apparently for HID's to be legal, the lights need to be self leveling and self cleaning. Now I don't understand the self leveling part because 1) there are so many dip shits with halogen lights that aren't leveled properly and glare oncoming traffic anyway and 2) halogens aren't self leveling and will glare in the same situations that HID's will. Self cleaning is just for glare purposes

Yeah, sorry I meant underfuel.

Unless the PFC has been flashed to a stock ECU tune, I believe it wouldn't allow your car to start either. It'll try overfuel, timing will be out slightly, etc. Am I right?

You mean, up through 6 posts? Take off your lingerie princess. EDIT: Unless that wasn't directed at my last post, because I have no idea who that was directed at after reading up..

My pics above are 245/40 on the rears.

I'd go with 18's personally, it'll fill the guards more. 9.5+22 front, 10.5+30 rear is basically perfect fitment. With 0 camber on fronts, it pokes 10mm, and natural lowered camber on rears the same. That is above on stock guards, with stretched rubber.

Got a neo cover, cheers to the people that messaged me anyway. I'll follow that link for the surround, cheers Andrew.

Neo engine cover - I'm looking for one someone has collecting dust, not one a shop is trying to fob off on me for $150. They are a piece of non-essential plastic, I'm not paying crack prices for it. Drivers seat belt Drivers side wiper arm Headlights - these need to be in good condition with no snapped tabs, preferably standard without H1 conversion Manual shift stick - from the gbox into centre console, the one with the thread Manual gear shift surround/trim + boot/gaiter - I need the gaiter, but will buy entire trim if it gets me the stock one.

Fair enough, good luck on your rim hunt.

Something that could have been found by a 2 second google search...