sleptema

Want to buy: All to suit R34, rb25det neo. Neo engine cover Drivers seat belt Drivers side wiper arm Headlights - these need to be in good condition with no snapped tabs, preferably standard without H1 conversion Manual shift stick - from the gbox into centre console, the one with the thread Manual gear shift surround/trim + boot Preferably located Perth, but will cop shipping if I can't get it anywhere here. Cheers.

Yes. Car looks good, I want 'more dish' look on rears, so I will be going +20 fronts and +12 rears. Cheers for the help guys.

18x9.5+12 on a r34 gtt with rolled guards and adjustable coilovers - on the rears. (Fronts I am going 18x9,5+20) I had 18x10.5+30, and that was poking around 5-10mm with natural lowered camber, I feel the +12 will be too much. Anyone else had experience with this aggressive offset? Was running 245/40 to fit the 10's in the guards.

To run those sizes without stretch you are going to need to raise the car up, it won't be able to sit as low as the tyres will be outside the guards. Correct me if I am wrong, but I would run 275s on the rear, more traction the better, especially for track. And 255s on the front. Not sure how much stretch is considered stretch?

I will second this.

Why not try unplugging number 6 injector? That would be the obvious next step for me. I don't understand how the rod could stretch that much to hit the plug. Even if it did, the problem would not have been intermittent in the first place.

Don't get me wrong, I would have made it. But $20 is a steal. EDIT: Hold up, bucket_boy101, do you mean the backlit emblem or do you mean the sticker that goes over the brake light? What I think OP wants is the little "S" that is on the bonnet to be backlit, like surrounded by a halo, not the brake lights. How would anyone tell though, as he is MIA.

I may do this to mine. It idles high (~900-1000) even with the AACV cleaned and screwed in. No loss of boost, but sometimes it will hunt on idle. Checking the TPS voltage and AFM with a scan tool to check if they are ok, but after that I am out of ideas.

Hit the nail on the head. It seems like rear suspension is weak/leaking. Take it to a suspension shop to see the extent of the problem, could just need new springs. Replace & win.

I would never use the factory R34 coils, as they become unserviceable fairly easily. I have used splitfires and have never had an issue, and have also heard that yellowjacket are also fairly good. Not sure how much power you are chasing, but if the haltech ignitor was made for your car, you should run with it, unless given a reason not to. If your plugs are gapped properly, I doubt there will be a difference in spark. Not really sure what this haltech does, but by the looks of it, it just ramps up the voltage for the coil packs. As long as each individual cylinder has it's own separate coilpack, then you can't go wrong. The only reason I would say 1 over the other is if they were banked setup, in which case it would limit the engine. Of course if you are going for ridiculous power figures, ignore everything I said.

Thread should be closed and question posted here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/ Plenty of information on there if you take the time to read it.

Well yeah that would be the easy way of doing it. I know eBay has heaps of them.

I can probably make one for you. Will probably need more information on how you want it to look, but nothing is impossible.

If 1 light went out, it's not the fuse. If they all go out, it's the fuse. Highly unlikely though, because your headlights and tail lights will likely go out as well as generally they are on the same circuit. If the aftermarket bulbs you have put in are LED, the chances of them blowing are minimal, but what I found is that they are not a perfect fit most of the time, as they may work for a duration, they eventually bend the contacts back and wriggle out. Take out your dash, locate the 'blown' globe and pull out the housing with the tabs on it. Using a small screw driver pry the tabs closer to the centre where they would contact the globe, put the globe back in and see if it works now. Maybe remove another globe to see if they works in the same position. If it does work, then it's the globe, if not, the globe either a) isn't making contact with the circuit board properly or b) the more unlikely option is the board is f**ked. Now go forth and FIX!

Short answer on the rears? No. For a rule of thumb, 18x9.5+25 is pretty much FLUSH with the guards, front and rear at 0 camber. Bearing in mind unless you have camber arms on the rears, as you lower it, it will camber in a few degrees. Fronts can be adjustable through most aftermarket suspension types by around +/- 2 degrees. So your 18x9+25 is great for the front, and depending on how much you lower it will depend on the amount of stretch you will need. If you want to be eating gravel, you will probably need 225s on it. Which is a fair amount of stretch. Rears - These will be very close to the suspension, especially if you don't stretch the tyres. If you want 18x10 badly, you need an offset of 30 or less. I had 18x10.5+30 with 245/40, and it fit, but I don't believe there was much clearance AND it was sitting around 5-10mm outside the guards even with around 2 degrees of camber. Your 18x10s will sit 15mm INSIDE the guards, even with 0 camber, which in my mind defeats the purpose of having a fat rim and tyre combo. Go 18x9+25 all round IMHO. It will be a safe choice, and you can put fatter tyres on the rears if you needed to.

Hi all, This may seem like a relatively easy thing to do, but I have just finished changing mine out and had a ridiculously hard time removing the lines. For anyone wanting to save a few bucks and change it out themselves I just thought this could help them out with this thread. This will be aimed at an R34 rb25det neo, but it's all pretty much the same. (will update with pictures later) Parts required: Ryco Z201 Time taken: Allow 1/2 hour Tools: 1/4 driver ratchet with 10 and 13mm socket Phillips head screwdriver Flat head screw driver Multigrips Vice (can be done without, but EXTREMELY useful) 7/16 or 11/12/13 mm open ended spanner (not needed, but makes the job easier) Rags or container Torch/Light Park the car in a garage/shady spot where you will do the work. Let the car cool unless you want to get burnt (dunno maybe you're into that kind of stuff). Step 1 - Depressurize the fuel system. Inside the drivers kick panel is a fuse pack, revealed by lifting a tab and taking out a rectangular plastic panel. In the top row of the fuses there should be 10 | 10 | 10 | 15 amp fuses. Using needle nose pliers, remove the 15A fuse (should be the one closest to the door). This is the fuse for the fuel pump. Once removed, try to start the car. If it starts, let it run and splutter out, then try to start again. This is just allowing the injectors to inject the remaining high pressure fuel in the system so when you remove the filter there isn't any chance of hydraulic injection. Step 2 - Isolate the car This step isn't absolutely required, but you are working in close proximity and will be leaning over close to the battery. If you don't mind losing your programmed radio stations, it would be a good idea for piece of mind. Step 3 - Removal of the filter I tried just removing the hose clamps from around the filter in/out lines, but if it hasn't been changed in a long time like mine - best of luck to you - I had to wrench the puppy in a vice, which showed that I had no chance while it was still in the car. After long periods of time the rubber retains it's shape where the clamp is, and makes it super tight. Locate the filter on the drivers side of the engine bay. From the in side of the filter, there should be a rubber hose connecting to a metal line via a hose clamp, using a 10mm socket, undo the clamp and let it slide down onto the metal line. Give the line a gentle yank. Not moving? Yeah, neither did mine. The easist way I found was using the 7/16 spanner, slide it onto the metal line and use it to pull the rubber up off the line. PRECAUTION: It will be tight, watch out to not slip and slice yourself on something. PRECAUTION # 2: There WILL be fuel in the line. Not much, but there will be. Don't have any sources of ignition nearby (another reason why having the battery disconnected is a good idea) and rags to clean the fuel. Option 1: Pull it off and use a rag to try capture as much of the fuel. Option 2: Place a container directly under the line on the floor and catch it on the way down. I just let mine drip, I'm a badass like that. From the out side of the filter, it will lead to a fitting near the intake manifold. Remove the clamp, and using a flat head screwdriver - pry it away from the fitting and use the spanner to pull it the rest of the way. Again, there will be fuel in the line. Less this time, but have a rag ready. Your filter should now be free with a line on each end. Take note which way the filter was sitting in the car (hopefully "OUT" was feeding your fuel rail) and what lines go on which end. Step 4 - Change out the filter Place the filter in a vice with one end of the filter where the rubber line starts in line with the edge of the vice. Doesn't matter if you overtighten it, the filter should be going in the bin anyway, Undo the clamp on the line, and using the multigrips twist the line to just free it up. Pry it off with the screwdriver/spanner combo (if it really hard to get off - using 2 flat head screwdrivers and the sides of the vice as leverage points may help. Just watch not to slip and cut yourself). Repeat on the other side, and replace the lines on the new filter - correct lines for IN/OUT, etc. Make sure there isn't any dirt and shit in the lines when you put them on, especially in the out side, as it will be unfiltered straight to your injectors. Step 5 - Replace everything Grab the clamps from the metal line and slide it on the rubber before you install it, makes it a little easier, doesn't matter what order you do it. Don't over tighten the clamps, remember when you removed them they were not overly tight. Remember to grab all your tools from the engine bay, and clean up all the spilt fuel, especially before putting the battery terminal back on. Put the negative back on the battery (yes it may spark, hope you cleaned your mess) and put the fuse back into the correct spot. Before starting your car, turn the key to IGN - the fuel pump has to prime the system (bring it up to operating pressure), so now is a good time to look for leaks. Just check all the lines that you tampered with, make sure nothing is leaking. If it isn't, start your car and away you go! Congratulations, you just saved yourself $50 from a mechanic. If anyone has any input, questions, advice or a better way of doing this, let me know and I can put in on here. Cheers for reading. (Y)

It's supposed to make a tu tu tu sound and dissipate completely without any detrimental effects to my turbo or car.

How do you tighten the BOV spring? I didn't think the flutter would have have as much as effect as it did on my car, it is a low mount garret with a LARGE FMIC, and no forward facing plenum. So much frikken pipe work, wouldn't have thought it would have made it that far back..

Yes, 18x8.75+20 front and 18x9.75+20 rear will fit. It will be nicely inside the guards, only a roll is neccesary. Roll is where the sharp edge on the inside of the guard is pushed up on itself to create a soft curve - so it doesn't chew your tyres. Pump means pulling your guard out to fit bigger rims or larger offset. I don't think you want this.

If it flutters, the BOV is supposed to be blocked, doesn't matter if it is plumbed or not..

AFM tune with atmo is fine, talking about flutter.

I've plumbed it back in, obviously it has fixed the problem. No I mean for flutter I need a map ecu, because I can't have an afm tune or this will continue to happen?

Yeah well I think I will just go atmospheric for the time being, until I can afford a ecu that uses map tuning.

Yeah, think I may be plumbing it back in. Cheers for the quick help.

Hi all. Tried to search for the issue, but I didn't have much luck finding anything relating directly to my issue. Car has a stock blow off valve, plumbed back. Decided to make a plate to block it off, you know for flutter/dose/compressor surge whatever you want to call it. Car runs great, starts fine, idles fine, holds boost, flutters... But if I am idling and rev it slightly, then take my foot off the throttle, it hunts for a while then goes back to idling fine. Sometimes it drops to 100-200 rpm, sometimes just to 600, stalled a couple times. It doesn't ALWAYS do it. It is mainly a concern when I am in traffic and need to move forward slightly. Black smoke also comes out the exhaust when hunting. Rich? Is it because it was tuned with the plumb back blow off and it is expecting that air for idle and isn't receiving it? I have blocked the vacuum line going to the bov and the plumb back pipe. I haven't tried plumbing the bov back in and taking out the blanking plate. Will do that soon and report back. R34 gt-t rb25det neo Garret low mount on 18psi avc-r boost controller power fc supporting mods