sleptema

I don't follow. I get the joke, but I haven't been on antilag forums to know how they would handle the question, can you please elaborate?

Sick of people ripping me out about them. Each to their own. I don't see why everyone feels a need to tell me how crappy my car is because I enjoy lights on the underside of it. I think 90% of deep dish rims look disgusting, but I can't go up to someone and tell them they make a car look trashy, just because most people like them. I am happy to have any and all information about cars you can throw at me, I can never know enough, and I always want to learn more. We all had to start somewhere, and I am sure you asked some stupid questions as well. I didn't purposely set myself up to look like a tool. How else are you supposed to learn if you don't ask questions? You do know f**k all, cause if you had any intelligence at all you would have realized that.

Show me an image of your car and I will single something out and tell you it looks disgusting and you should burn your car for it. f**k head.

Cheers man, I will get my mechanic to look at it when I take it in for a service in about 1000kms or so. I got my stepdad to look at it, for a better opinion, he said it isn't anything that I should be worried about. Good enough for me

Cheers for the help everyone. Unfortunately, I plan on going lower, louder and more extreme with my modifications. This is a little disappointing to hear, oh well, makes the daily drive to work all the more interesting.

Cheers for not answering anything.

Hey guys, there doesn't seem to be much coverage on getting certificates for mods as my car has a few illegal mods that make me piss myself every time a cop drives by. I haven't been pulled over yet, but when I do, I am sure to get a canary.. I read in a previous thread that Welshpool Licensing centre has a list of engineers or something, how would I go about acquiring that list as it doesn't appear to be online.. How do these certificates work? I throw them money and they give me permits for everything? Here is the list of mods on my car that are defect worthy, if anyone can shed some light on what I have to do.. Too low, exhaust too loud, atmospheric bov, tint too dark (30%), pod filter (I THINK it complies as it is bolted onto the chassis, not freestanding), underglow (which I am not really too concerned about, but would be nice to ricer it up every now and then) and hid headlights (with cable tied ballasts ). Cheers.

Noise hasn't gone away, but is loudest and only really noticeable early morning when it is cold. I am pretty sure it is one of my belts because when the turbo timer is running and I hop out of the car there is another sound that actually sounds like a belt. When I get my next service I will just get the belts looked at, if something happens earlier I will blame my mechanic - I take it to a mechanic because I am not a mechanic. I pay him enough, my car should run perfect all the time. If it doesn't, I am going to rain shit on him.

Noticed there wasn't a tutorial on replacing the handbrake as a set including the cable that runs down under the car, had to do it today and I took a few snaps to make it easier for anyone who has to do it. Difficulty level: Easy, most boneheads can do this. Time taken: Took me 2 hours having no idea what was required, can probably be acomplished in under an hour. Parts needed: Phillips head screwdrivers, Torx tamper resistant T50 head (on a ratchet makes it a shitload easier), 3/8s ratchet with 4inch extension, 1/2 inch socket, 10mm socket, 10mm spanner, jack & stands OR hoist, threadlock (optional) safety glasses (recommended but not needed), and a new handbrake. I got mine from a mate with a half cut (Cheers Maytech!) What to watch out for: Always take great care when working under a suspended vehicle (like when on the stands) and when jacking. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE ASK SOMEONE. You don't want to destroy something under your car because you guessed where to jack it from. Make special care you don't cross thread the bolts, you don't want to have to drill them out I can give you the tip. Tips: My dad has always said "If you put in a bolt, tighten it." That way you don't second guess yourself, and you know it's right. First start by leaning the 2 front seats forward and undoing the 2 screws in the side of the centre panel. Remove the ciggarette lighter and ash tray, behind the ash tray there is another screw. Unscrew your gear knob. (lefty loosy righty tighty =P) Pull up towards the rear of the gear shift boot on the panel, and it should pop out of place. Behind the ciggarette lighter is 2 plugs for power, one pulls out, the other has a clip that needs to be pushed before it can be pulled out. There are 2 more screws underneath the panel just lifted on each side of the surround, remove them and the whole centre panel should be completely free. With your handbrake raised, slide the panel towards the front of the car to get the boot over the handbrake. Unplug the yellow airbag plug by pressing in the centre to release the clip. Take note that on the airbag and on the braket below "FRONT ->" should be labelled. Using the T50 TR head, undo the bolts, they will be tight as they have been threadlocked, and remove the lower bracket using your 10mm socket. Beneath the removed brackets, undo the 2 bolts, and remove the 2 gold bolts holding your handbrake in place using your 1/2 inch. On drivers side of the handbrake, there will be a small bracket (which detects whether your handbrake is engaged or not on the dash, mine is also connected to my turbo timer), use a screwdriver to remove. The handbrake should be completely free. To the passenger side of the handbrake there is a 10mm nylock nut on a thread, which is used for adjustment and will be explained in more detail later. Completely undo this, and slide the thread out towards the rear of the vehicle. This is just to create some slack to make it easier to work under the car. I hope your car is in gear or chocked! =P Chock both the front wheels, and jack the rear of your car up and put it on stands. I highly recommend NOT working under it whist only jacked, you need to have it on stands. Make sure before you go under your car you give the car a little push to make sure it isn't going to fall on you whist underneath. As you can see, I had to drive up on bricks to be able to get my jack underneath because it is too low. Put on your safetys if you have them (you'll thank me later), and take your ratchet with 1/2 inch socket & extension under your car. Directly above the tailshaft is a clip that is connected to both rear brakes, I hope you realise how the handbrake mechanism works now. Following the brake line back 100mm on the drivers side, undo the nut that holds one of the lines on. There shouldn't be much tension, and should be easy to replace, this is just to create some slack to make it easier to work. It doesn't need to be done, but it helped me. This is where big hands have a disadvantage. On the handbrake cable again, there are 2 slots, both on perpendicular angles to the brake lines. To remove this, you need to turn the bracket 90 degrees to line up the brake line and slot, then push up on the pin that sits inside to release. Do this to both sides and the handbrake cable should be completely free. Feed it back over the tailshaft, noting the way it was run and as far back into the car as you can go. Back inside the car, pull the old handbrake out and replace with the new. Again, make sure the thread with the 10mm nylock nut is completely loosened and hanging freely for some slack. Under the car, make sure (CRITICAL) you thread the cable the same way back over the tailshaft that is was originally run, you don't want it to be rubbing on the shaft and finding out you have to replace again in a weeks time cause your handbrake doesn't work. Put the 2 brake lines back inside the clip the same way you got them out (obviously reversed) and replace the nut holding the cable. You are now done underneath the car, but leave it in the air for the next part. Bolt the new handbrake down, slide the adjustment thread back into position and bolt the engaging switch back onto the side. It doesn't hurt to take a second to turn your ignition on (car does not need to be started) and make sure the (!) light is illuminating on the dash when the handbrake is lifted slightly. (before the first click) Your airbag light with be on as well, just ignore it, it is just because the plug is out. Tighten the nylock nut on the thread, pull on the cable to relieve the slack so you know where to tighten to. Using a second person if you have one available, get them to spin one of the rear wheels, and it should be moving freely. Pull up 3 clicks on your handbrake and while the other person is still spinning the wheel, tighten the nut until the wheel begins to grab making it hard to spin. Release the handbrake back to 'off' and make sure the wheel can still spin freely, and again, while the person is turning the wheel, slowly click up the notches. On the 1st notch, there should be minimal change, on the 2nd, it should start to grab, and on the 3rd it should be grabbing hard. You should be able to easily click 2 more notches. Make sure you test both rear wheels to make sure they are both working. Replace all the panels, plugs, bolts and screws, lower your car, and you should be all done. Before you drive away, engage your handbrake to where you would normally have it, and stall it in 1st gear. This should test whether it is hard enough to stop your car. If there is anything I have missed, or I am wrong about, feel free to post and I will update the tutorial. Hope I helped!

Yeah, they change the crumple zone of the car, pretty sure they don't meet Australian standards, but keen to see if it you can get one.

No I will be getting the bomex kit on my car, in the near future. Should be fitting it this weekend, then all I have to do is paint and refit. I bought the kit for $500 (very cheap, but decent quality) from a private seller. There is a place called 'TheSpoilerShop' here that fits and paints kits. They quoted me around $3000 for a full kit bought painted and fitted. Or around $1600 to just paint and fit. Expensive, I would rather do it myself.

No shit, that is why your 8 year older car goes for 5 grand more then mine still! I want a GTR, but I am happy with east bear kit

That bayside blue GTR is mint though. Then engine (don't quote me) is around 500hp, but reliable enough to be a daily. Finance is easy to get. Just show a bank some cash, a job, and they'll give you anything. I saved 5 grand when I was 17, and they said I could borrow up to 22. If I could afford a GTR I would as well... But yeah 54k is a whole lot to be spending on a 10 year old car.

Sarcasm? Hard to tell with no tone.

If you are looking for a bayside blue gtt, I would give up now. They are so rare. I have only ever seen 1 in WA, all the rest are GTR's. You can find them, but it may take a while to get a decent one. Obviously, you are going for GTT because you cannot afford a GTR, yes? There are a few regulations that we have in place to keep the import quality high, such as no rust, no unrepaired damage, etc. And in Japan the cars are worth stuff all, and most of the markup in price in Australia is because of the importing fees. In my opinion, you are better off finding a stocky with limited mods, because if a car is only worth $2000, and you have $5000 worth of mods on it, you would be smarter to sell the parts induvidually, then sell the car. So when I see a riced import FOB, I get a little worried at the quality and workmanship, that being said, I am a careful/logical/rational thinker. For a good quality GTT, you are looking at around $20k (AUD obviously). I bought mine completely stock, mechanically perfect, few small/barely noticeable dents (as you get on a 13 year old car), 87,000kms on the clock, $17k. Mine was FOB, and personally, unless I knew the driver or had friends who knew them, I wouldn't buy one that isn't imported, ie, driven by an Aussie. I give my car piss, but I also get it serviced every 5000kms, wash it fortnightly, run on 98 octane fuel (the highest octane % in Perth..), always let the engine cool, and don't thrash it when cold. Yet I know a LOT of people, who drive them like they are indestructable machines. This can too happen with an import, but if you buy one stock, look for tell tale signs of modding then stripping, exhaust would be a good place to start, because mine was very filthy, while the car itself was clean, so the guy who had it in jap had a cannon (at least) on it (because the rest of the heat shielding was in tact). Most of the asian drivers I know drive like me, but obviously, there are exceptions to the rule. Danny from imports101 is a good bloke, he can help get you started. He is fairly well known around here. Once you start getting into modding, you will want to talk to Andrew from Hyperdrive. He is regarded as the best r34 tuner in Perth by many people, but it is your choice, cross that bridge when you get to it. I am no expert on the matter, but I have picked up a little bit of knowledge along the way. Have you ever been to Perth? If not I would be happy to show you around the weekend you show up, take a cruise in my gtt What kind of job are you looking at getting? What trade? At the end of the day, if a cop wants to yellow sticker you, he will do it whether your car has mods or not. I know a guy who just rolled out of the car yard with a stocky, bitch cop, pulled him over for too low (bullshit..?) and tint (wasn't tinted). A bov and intake is probably the safest mods, yeah if a cop pulls you over and checks under your bonnet, you may get a defect notice, but they won't (not likely..) pull you over because he hears your bov if your car is clean.. Just keep your stock bov and air intake, takes an hour to change them over, just time going over the pits. The only reason a bov is illegal is because it doesn't meet immision standards, stupid rule imo..

My car: Too loud, too low, tint too dark, wheels have too much poke, atmospheric LOUD bov, HID headlights, underglow. I don't drive like an idiot, and I am not a prick to the cops, and I haven't been defected once. If you are doing the right thing, cops won't generally pull you over for just visual mods. My cannon is 7' with a 5' tip, it's like a milo tin, hangs 50mm from the ground (SCRAPE!). Cops see it, tail my car for a couple kms, run my plates, give the car a once over with their eyes, then drive away. When I drive through booze busses, I just smile, be polite and be honest. Obviously I have been lucky, I have heard of cops pulling over cars for rediculous reasons.

Jumped in my car this morning and it was making a weird high pitch buzzing/squeaking noise. It SOUNDS like a belt rubbing against something but I could not see anything. My dad says it may be a problem with a bearing, but I do not know what that means, as I am by no means a mechanic. Took a short video from inside the car which is where I first heard it, then down to the left of the air intake near the fan where it seemed to be the loudest. My car is a r34 gtt, so a rb25det neo. The car is basically stock, bov, catback exhaust, hks mushroom air filter, bleeder valve + tune. Engine doesn't seem to be unresponsive or having any problems but I was too afraid to give it too much piss just incase something did happen. It is due for a service within a month, (every 5000kms, last service was a 100,000km) only done 102k kms. Anyone have any ideas?

But would they fit my GTT?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-fender-cover-set-bnr34-55942 This is a set of front and rear fender covers, and says that it is only compatible with the GTR. From what I can see the rear quarter of a GTR doesn't look too much different to that of the GTT, and my front fenders are being replaced with aftermarket 'wide' and vented style.. So if I bought these fenders, will it fit onto my car with any sort of hassle? If I did buy them, and did fit, would I need a respray? Or could I paint them and fit them without needing to screw with the paint..? Cheers guys.

A nut from a tree would create a smaller then 5c dent, and I am not TOO worried about that. This dent is 20c piece +. It is fairly big. But, it wouldn't be that noticable to other people, it's just because it is mine.. You know..

That is actually a good point, I will ask my dad about that.. The quote was for the dent to be removed and buffed out, the reason it was so expensive was because the roof lining had to come off. The PDR, which I am assuming is that suction cup that pops it out, apparently wouldn't work as the dent is too 'sharp'.

Hey guys. I just wanted to post this up so that no one else has to go through the pain I have gone through, not to meantion the financial loss, so try to keep this bumped. Backstory: I recieved a dent in my r34's roof from the neighbours playing cricket outside their house. It apparently was a freak clip and it bounced off a wall and into my roof. Left a NASTY dent, and a big scratch in the middle of it. The dents location is in the exact centre of the roof, about 30mm from the winsheild up. The dent itself is about the size of a 20 cent coin. The neighbours did confront me about this, and as much as I wanted to rip their heads off about it, it was an accident and the kid who did it was like 8, so it was better to appreciate his honesty rather then flame him infront of his dad. I got a quote from a good panel and paint guy (friend of mine - Terry Kho, absolute perfectionist and very good prices, if you are in Perth and in need I highly recommend him. His work is on facebook, take a look, it's brilliant..) for $400, including the removal of a few other small dents that were easy to ding out and some slight buffing. The neighbours gave me $200 towards it and I forked out the rest. tl:dr - Start here The dents location.. Centre of the roof, 30mm back from the winsheild, 20c coin sized. Hard to see in an image taken from my phone, but fairly noticable when clean. Basically there is welding work supporting the rear vision mirror right beneath it. To remove the dent: 1) Cut back the frame work, pop out the dent, then refabricate. This is actually a substancially large job, and the chance for shit to go wrong is quite high, and you know the pricks will burn something or cut something when they are in the car welding. or 2) Drill a hole through the roof, use a hook to pull the dent out, seal, and repaint whole roof. The better of the 2 options, but it may be quite costly. I plan on painting my car matte black within the next couple years when I make it into a show car, so EVENTUALLY, it won't matter. But for now I am still quite pissed off that it is there, and I wasted money on something that could not be fixed. ~Steve

Well you didn't reply so I didn't bring it.

Guy in white on white 4door I met on Leach... I have a spare open face helmet if you want to come down. Not sure if it will pass though, I am using my motorbike helmet which I know is ok. Depending on how small your head is, I have a spare full face, but it's very small. Your call :]

Just want to praise Fauzer who is the owner of Auto Japan in Maddington. He has to be one of the most patient and hard working people I have ever met. He has consistently put up with me and my numerous phone calls about things that I have stuffed up and he always comes with advice and a helping hand. His prices are very reasonable, and will do anything to keep his customers happy. His business is very well set up and will take care of any problems you have, no matter how small and insignificant. For anyone who is sitting on the fence about which business to go to or if you are trying to make a decision, I highly recommend Auto Japan, and make sure you let him know that I (Steve - Black r34) sent you! Auto Japan Importing Jap Car Bodykits and Wheels Servicing & Repairs, Clutches, Brakes, Radiators, Full Workshop Facilities. Upgrades & Modifications. Tyres & Batteries. 1723 Albany Hwy Kenwick WA 6107 Dealer: Fauzer Uvais Mob: 0417 146 142 Tel/Fax: (08) 9459 2525 www.autojapan.com.au [email protected]