whatsisname

WTF? How did my post end up after yours Andy? Oh well never mind:) Fire away with the questions mate I'm happy to help if possible Yeah you'll need 4th just before the line, unless the 8k rev range of the RB26DETT can get you over the line in 3rd? It might be worth asking the GT-R guys who drag race their GT-R. All, Something to keep in mind for drag strip first timers. The AIR drag strip is totally different to launch on compared to the average set of lights! You'll need more rev's off the line @ AIR or you "will" bog down badly It's a huge shock to feel how quickly your car takes off (or feels like it is) on a grippy VHT prepped surface Big rev' launches also put more strain on the drive train due to the lack of wheel spin that a road surface would normally reduce!

Andy, Adelaide International Raceway is straight up Port Wakefield Rd heading out of town, you can't miss it on the left hand side. It's ~$50 to run all up, for as many runs as you can fit in. Yep you need an ADR approved helmet, & you must wear long pants/long sleeved shirt. 180km/h is ~111.85mph, which is a good enough terminal speed (TS) to run into the 12's with decent traction. You probably won't hit the limiter before the finish line but you "may" before your terminal speed is read. TS is an average of the last 30' of track before the line & 30' past the line (I think?) so your elapsed time (ET) won't be effected but if your going quick enough you "may" hit the limiter after the line in that 30' during the TS reading. Hope that made sense On my last run (Nov01) I ran 13.1 @ 109.5, & from memory I backed off just after the line doing well over 180km/h, I probably would've got a higher TS if I'd kept my boot into it a touch longer My car when stock (or close too) hit the limiter @ ~190+km/h so I think you'll be fine

Nice numbers fellas Especially Jeremy's silver R33, a 12.99 on road rubber, well done!. Is his car a GTS25t? If so what's it had done? Any idea of the terminal speed on his runs? Thanks

Happy to try & explain as best I can mate If you fit any form of ECU piggyback module, get the stock ECU re-tuned, or replace the stock ECU completely, then a bleed kit (if you'd fitted one) would become redundant The f/p bleed can't match a properly tuned electronic management system (any of the above options), except in price! The f/p bleed kit is the most basic form of fuel control, it's far cheaper than any of the electronic piggyback modules (a 2nd hand Apexi S-AFC or Unichip is ~$350-400? + tuning) The f/p bleed can't provide the scope or flashy options that any of the piggyback set-ups can but it's much better than nothing, & for $220 it's not too bad @ all! As a temp' measure it'll most definitely improve your economy, & gain you ~10rwkw in the process Basically, fit the f/p bleed until you can afford to do one of the above mentioned ECU upgrade options, then it's a simple matter of removing the bleed (an easy 2min job!) when you do upgrade You could probably sell the bleed to someone else. Unless you're a member of Autospeed you'll only be able to read the first page of this review but it'll help explain the bleed in more detail - http://www.autospeed.com.au/A_1407/page1.html I've never used Mobil 8000, used only Optimax in NSW, & now only use Ultimate 98. I've read/heard too many bad stories with Optimax!?! I found my plugs would foul very easily on Optimax! I've never had a problem with BP98 yet Here's a list of the BP Ultimate retailers within a 50km radius of Adelaide - BP West Terrace 41-49 West Terrace Adelaide BP Express Mile End 95 Henley Beach Rd Mile End BP Express Glandore 110 Anzac Hwy Glandore BP Express Glenunga 303 Glen Osmond Rd Glenunga BP Croydon 231-237 South Road Ridleyton BP Woodville Park 81 David Terrace Woodville Park BP Fulham 510 Henly Beach Road Fulham BP Colonial 232 St Bernards Rd Hectorville BP Hillcrest 431 North East Road Hillcrest BP Roseville 125 Grand Junction Road Rosewater BP Brighton 480-484 Brighton Road Brighton BP Express Paralowie Cnr Port Wakefield & Bolivar Road Paralowie BP Express Southern 131 Main South Road Morphett Vale BP Coastline 35 Gulfview Rd Christies Beach BP Express Munno Para 43-45 Main North Road Smithfield

A/FR is.... A = Air F = Fuel R = Ratio It's an abbreviation used to describe the composition of the mixture entering the combustion chamber, i.e. 10.5 to 1 ='s 10.5 parts air to 1 part fuel, or 10.5:1. It's not just a turbo term, it's used for any internal combustion engine Under WOT (wide open throttle) @ full load a forced induction engine will make maximum "safe" power @ ~low 12:1 A/FR. A NA engine is happy even leaner than this due to lower combustion temp's. From the factory Nissan (in fact most manufacturers) set up very conservative A/FR's to keep everything nice & safe. Rich mixtures mean cooler cylinder temp's, & less chance of Mr "average" filling up with a batch of poor quality low RON fuel & causing engine damage due to pinging, damage that leads to warranty claims for the factory! This explains the usual mid/low 10:1 A/FR's that most GTS25t's run Too lean a A/FR & the cylinder temp's will increase to a point that detonation will occur, just the same as if the inlet air temp is too high (i.e. an inefficent IC) Provided the inlet temp's are kept down (via a good FMIC) & the timing & fuel is correctly set-up your RB25DET will love 12:1 A/FR, & so will you Mod's to alter the A/FR are things like: The fuel press' bleed kit. It works by reducing the fuel rail pressure, so less fuel is injected for the same injector opening time (duty cycle). Aftermarket ECU piggyback modules, Apexi S-AFC/Unichip etc... An OEM ECU re-tune. Not easily done with the stock R33 ECU. Full replacement ECU's, Apexi Power FC, Motec etc... This is the best option. I've got a full replacement "Microtech LT12" ECU. I'm by no means an automotive guru so the above info shouldn't be take as gospel Matt

Tania (my wife) isn't really a car person to be honest. She doesn't treat cars as a point A to B device but she doesn't really take an active interest either. She doesn't mind going to watch a motorsport event (AIR drags, Le-mans a yr or so back etc...) but it's more to be with me & have a good time rather than the cars The few times she has driven the Skyline she's too worried she'll damaged it & I'll be angry @ her (I wouldn't be). I just sit in the passenger seat & say to her, "Go faster!!!", "spin the wheels" :burnout: :lol: I think she prefers it when I drive her in the Rav4 or Excel Nice restaurants, good wine/food & friends, weekends away, wine/art-craft festivals, entertaining, travelling the globe, going to the gym, these are the things she likes (me too)

:lol: "Huger than whatsisname" Crap weather alright! I was loving the previous few months lack of rain, it's making up for it now though! The R33 GT-R & GTS25t g/boxes have identical ratios, & to the best of my knowledge share internals? So the RB25DET box should be very strong. Your economy is typical of a stock ECU'ed (10's A/FR) R33 GTS25t, I use to get ~300-350k per tank pre ECU & A/FR mod's. Tim (RPM) can do a "fuel press' bleed kit" ($220) to help improve econ' & gain ~10rwkw, the kit will reduce the top end 10:1 A/FR's to 12:1's. Joel has the same kit fitted. Edit: Looks like Joel beat me to it

On the EBC web site, & if you speak to EBC on the phone, the Greens' are recommended for road use. Why CAS & others told you otherwise is anyones guess? Here's the info on the Greens' from www.ebcbrakes.com.au

Fri' 5/7 I'll be there.

:lol: :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

Sounds good mate @ the 215+rwkw mark I removed my AFM screens & it didn't do a damn thing! I was way out of the AFM voltage range by that stage anyway. You'll really start to see the benefit of the FMIC once the VG30 is fitted @ tuned. It'd well worth getting your ECU re-tuned by Tilbrooks straight after the VG30 is installed (~$500 I think?) You'll really unlock the extra grunt then! Unfortunately Tim doesn't do stock ECU re-tuning so Tilbrook is your man. With decent grip you'd give 'Bugs a good look @ your tail lights With the VG30 & a re-tune you'd probably give me a good look too! Unless we do a 3rd gear rolling run :uh-huh: I need some 265 FM901's, with the Falkens I get w/spin all through 2nd.

I'm up for a cruise, be nice if the rain would stay away! I've installed my catch can, braided lines & anodised fittings, & finally transfered over to SA rego' with personal plates Transfer was fun NOT! but the only thing they knocked me back for was the MOMO! WTF!?!? I didn't argue though, it could've been a lot worse A quick swap back to the stockie & I was done Then the c/can was then fitted :lol: Joel, Did you get a FMIC before & after dyno?

J, I'm 100% sure it's 4.11 I'm 99.9% sure the only change was when the A-LSD was released on the later series 2's. I also know the non V spec GT-R 4.11 diff' will bolt straight in

Spot on Cam! I'm with you :uh-huh: I'm not interested in what I can run with slicks, no interior trim, no exhaust etc... etc... until I get consistant times in full everyday road trim I want low ET's & high TS's with the only difference from the street being the grip of the surface :burnout: Keep working on the launch technique Cam, I went from 2.5's down to 2.15 (so far) without changing tyres or reducing the pressures from 38psi. I've heard of LS1 guys getting 1.7 60's on road rubber! :eek:

You can't expect too much from the EBC Greens' as they're not really designed for track use, they're more of an upgrade from the stock road pads, ie they're kind to the discs but provide improved road braking performance. EBC Red' / Yellow' or Blue' are more suitable for track use.

Good call mate Will do.

Rather than stop @ eng oil, here's a run down on what I've been using & the links to each one (I hope?). Engine: Motul 300V (10W/40 mostly) http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.02.01 If 300V is good enough for NISMO & MUGEN to use it then it's good enough for me G/box: Castrol VMX80 http://www.castrol.com.au/castrol_001/prod...rans_index.html Diff': Redline Shockproof "Superlight" http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/spgoti.htm Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600 http://www.motul.com/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.06.01 Brake pads: EBC Greenstuff http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/green.htm As Motul is a French based company the English translation on their website is a tad average

Thought it might be a good idea to get a role call going to see how many SASA members/cruisers we've got SASA = South Australian Skylines Australia

Shell, you've got mail Happy to help... mate?... um....matette

Shell, Naa it's not a stupid question @ all. The "bracket" your refering to is actually the hose clamp, which you tighten to secure the pod onto the adapter flange The 3 1/2" - 89mm is the maximum dia' the clamp will open to & clamp. The bracket I'm talking about is a custom made one that actually holds the pod/adapter & AFM in place, as once the box is gone it's got nothing to support it, & you don't want your AFM banging about 8O The bracket attaches from one of the adapter/AFM bolts & then to one of the now free airbox mounting points Too easy! The clamp will tighten down to secure the pods 77mm dia' without a problem Just had a quick look @ the Simota site, 99% of the filters are a 77mm neck dia' so your laughin' :lol: As for my adapter, if you want it let me know how/where/when to send it etc... Cheers dudette, Matt. Update: I've got a few pic's of it, crap quality but it'll give you an idea. As I haven't got a clue on how to put pic's on the net (other than on SDU) maybe I can email 'em to you?

Not much @ all That's if you want my old one? Now I've got a whole new inlet set-up I don't need my AFM adapter. I'll take a pic tomorrow & see if I can figure out how to post it on the www (not one of my strong points). It was made by Croydon Autosports out of polished alloy @ fits straight onto the AFM. It suits a 3" (76mm) filter. Fitting is very simple! Once you've removed the airbox (held in by a few bolts) then you just need a simple bracket to hold the pod/adapter from moving about. Come to think of it I've still got the brackets I originally used before I made my custom airbox! Cheers, Matt

Cam, You've got the luxury of just replacing your AFM with a larger Nissan AFM (Z32) as the 32 ECU can be reprogrammed to suit

See there ya' go! Into the 10's (A/FR) @ peak power mate!!! You've still got power to come!, once you lean off those peak power mixtures 300rwhp. The 044 can handle 300rwkw so you can lean on it a fair bit with xtra pressure, but the inj's can only take sooo much.

No prob's mate. My GTS25t is a late '94 model & it's has VVT. If you look @ the black t'belt/cam gear cover front on (ie standing @ the front of the car looking into the eng' bay) one side has the alloy crank angle sensor (exhaust cam gear) the other side has a bulge (inlet gear) the bulge is to clear the VVT gear. Just back from the inlet gear on the side of the eng' is a long housing with an elec connector on it, this it the VVT solenoid. The VVT is there to improve bottom end power NOT top end!!! (So I'm lead to believe!?!?!) I'll see if I can dig up a pic with arrows pointing to the bits in ?