whatsisname

You can actually have all three chops. But it usually requires illegal activities

To prevent the HKS switch from getting inundated with calls can you give us a quick run down on your conversation SK?

Sorry to hear your misfortune I know the feeling you get when you see that smoke in the rear view What brand of forged pistons are ('were') they?

I aim for 7000rpm but sometimes I go close to the limiter (7500rpm) Peak power is ~6400rpm and peak torque is ~4200-4400rpm. I'll be happy when I nail a sub 2.000 60ft. I'll get there eventually

From memory Marc, it was an old school Holden Sedan (HZ vintage maybe?). You know, the usual slicks, big stall convertor and so on. As you can tell by the RT he's probably had the odd drag before too. As you can tell from my RT I usually don't care about racing the 'other guy'. I think I'm holding the taller gears too long as my 660ft MPH is higher than others that get higher trap MPH. I know I should change earlier as my peak power and torque is well before 7000+rpm. I tend to carried away me thinks

I finally got off my arse and had my one of my time slips scanned. This one is a PB ET, I've had a poofteenth better MPH.

I didn't end up going as it was just starting to rain when I left work. My work is ~5-10k from the track.

In the real world (i.e no complete combustion or 100% efficient use of fuel) 14.7 AFR at the top end of an engines rev range is not healthy, be it NA or forced induction. The NA LS1 Commodore guys would be a tad worried if they were getting 14:1+ AFRs! Have a look at the BOONGA Magna dyno sheet, post turbo upgrade. Those top end AFRs look like piston munchers to me.

Ahhh that's right, I forgot Wednesday evening is no good for you (unless you've got time off). I was actually talking about this Wednesday, as in today!

After looking at the dyno sheet, it appears to me that it made (on the previous engine: stock internals, injectors + bolt-on turbo) 249.9fwkw running dangerously lean!!! >14:1 A/FR is lean for an atmo engine, let alone one with forced induction! With his new engine and turbo set-up I'd say it "should" have big potential. After all we are talking about a very close match for the Mitsubishi 3000GT engine. With his 3.0L V6 now sporting stronger internals and serious support systems to match it will be interesting to see how it goes on the dyno at Autosalon. I dunno' about the bit on his web site about leaving "burning Skylines and WRXs on the side of the drag strip"

Whatever you do Matty just make sure you give us/me plenty of warning. I'm currently free on the weekend of the 3-4th. I'm not free the following weekend. But if I have enough time I'll organise to swap weekends You heading out for this arvo's Wednesday AIR meet mate? I'm going... to watch for a change! It'll be the first time in 6mths that I will just be spectating! I might give the first-timers a few burnout tips

I'm not questioning whether Jeremy can afford to replace them (and anything else they might damage upon failure) I was more aiming at what is the rough *safe* limit for the stock R33 GT-R turbine wheels. If 1.2bar is fine then this is an excellent bench mark for others to follow. If it is pushing beyond *safe* limits then I'd hate to think others will follow the lead and then end up with a failure I am in no way attempting to take anything away from your achievement Jeremy. GTS-t VSPEC - When do we get to see this 450rwhp unleashed on the drag strip? Regardless of traction you should be into the 130mph TS range with that kind of power.

Ditto

Is 1.2bar within the approximate *safe* boost limit of the stock ceramic R33 GT-R turbos? If it is, then that's one hell of a 'bang for bucks' package! If not, then it might eventually go bang and cost lots of bucks

Congrats! Just one question, how much boost are you running from the stock turbos to get those numbers?

I 100% agree with SK re LT8 over LT12. The combination of LT12 and RB25DET is a tried and tested one.

After my engine build (CP forgies and rings etc..) - ZERO smoke during run-in period.

The symptoms sound like a piston failure! Oil is some how getting into the combustion camber. When you're at the lights with low cylinder pressure (idle) oil is making its way into the camber. This oil then gets burnt/blown out the exhaust as you take off. This is the exact same thing that was occurring when my #6 ringland let go! Either that or the engine builder got it horribly wrong when he fitted your rings! Have you followed the correct run-in procedure? Surely glazed bores wouldn't be that bad? Take heart in the fact that I'm no mechanic, so it may well be something simple that's easily rectified. EDIT: I would've thought if it were a turbo seal then the smoke would get worse with boost. And the smoke would be constant. Yes?

Very good question SK! In all honesty had the PFC been offered to me under the same circumstances, then yes, I would've chosen 'it' instead. But for no other reason than it would've been the 'best bang for bucks' at the time. Based on my limited experience with both ECUs (LT12 and PFC) I would (and often do) recommend either choice. I haven't had any battery or alternator related voltage issues with my LT12 Roy. But having an Optima D34 Deep Cycle Yellow Top battery probably helps. At ~21kg it certainly puts a bit of extra weight over the rear wheels!

For you to have the cage in and legal it MUST go through Regency Park. You MUST remove the rear seats. It's the only way to get it done legally. If you paint it black and keep it low key it 'may' not be noticed - until you get pulled over Do you really need a roll cage?

There's a fugen huge difference btw an ET Street and a Nitto NT555R! I have driven through all manner of shitty wet weather with my Nittos and they are just as good as any other road tyre I've used in recent times. Stuffed if I'd try doing it on ET Streets! A couple of pissy little lines aren't what I'd call tread. Hence ET's aren't a road tyre in my book. I'd say you'd have a fair chance of the law wanting to know all about your ET Streets too. By comparision Nittos are the most conventional looking road rubber out of all the semi-comps. ET Streets - from the land of road legal Nitrous and drag slicks with grooves

Oh you're kidding me. Shit no! Matty I feel for you mate, I really do. So are we talking, off the road due to theft-damaged-recovered? Or are we talking theft-gone-no more car? Either way Matt, I hope things go your way in the end. The people that do this sort of thing need to have something they have worked hard on (if they ever have?) taken away from THEM without warning. And if that isn't enough to deter them then a hand or eye would probably suffice. A bit extreme perhaps? But I bet they'd think twice about doing it again.

SK, There are no problems’ finding excellent PFC tuners in SA. It's just that in my case I was able to purchase a new LT12 and have it set-up for considerably less than what a 2nd hand PFC was going for 'at the time'. I won't say exactly how low cost, as I was asked not too. I certainly had money left over to do a few extra power-producing mods than had I bought a PFC. It was a bit of a ‘right place - at the right time’ kind of situation. So in answer to your first question SK, no the PFC doesn’t have any advantage over the LT12, except in my case where I had money left over to do MORE modifications. The ongoing support (retuning after new mods and so forth) I have received via my choice has been outstanding!!! Had I chosen a PFC back then, I would still be receiving the same level of support now, but back then it wouldn't have been the case. Obviously none of this has any bearing on the quality of either ECU, I'm just clarifying my original statement in my first post. The only major advantage the LT12 and LT handset has over the PFC and Commander (correct me if I’m wrong?) is the LT12’s ability to select between multiple maps within a few seconds, and all at the touch of just 2 buttons. There's no need to plug a laptop in for this feature. It's something I use quite a bit. And probably very useful to the US based guys where they often run differing octane fuel depending on what they’re up to (going by the forums I’ve read). Moving right along… In order to set-up a Microtech LT 'plug-in' ECU you do indeed need to drill ‘a’ hole (into the existing pipe work pre-throttle body) and then tap it to suit IAT sensor (pretty simple stuff though) The wiring is already in place as you use one of the AFM wires and its corresponding pin on the OEM ECU plug - The Microtech 'plug-in lead' is configured for this already. Wiring the earth is about as basic as you can get! Running the boost/vac line for the internal MAP sensor doesn’t require any firewall drilling, mine went through an existing hole easy as pie. I certainly agree that there is more involved in setting up an LT series plug-in as opposed to a PFC, but it’s hardly anything major. It’s not beyond anyone with a poofteenth of an idea (or at least a mate with one). Open loop - closed loop, yep no argument from me there. I get quite good economy with average driving (400k per tank), but to be totally honest, I really don’t care about economy one little bit. It isn’t my work car so if I get 20kays less per tank so be it. Yep I agree SK; naturally you would expect a GOOD tuner to be capable of tuning any ECU. My definition of a good tuner is one who not only has the knowledge and ability, but one who has those attributes AND the ‘professionalism’ to apply them to there fullest extent. In closing… I’m more than happy with my cars driveability, economy, power and value for money since choosing the LT12. I’m also more than happy to take those that are considering the ‘seemingly poor choice’ of an LT12 ECU for a drive. Cheers, Matt

I'M IN

:ufo: And if we hit 88mph do I get to choose what time period we visit?