whatsisname

Thanks for answering my constant questions Adrian So do you know what rwkw gain your car makes on the gas (before/after fig's) ? By the looks of things it makes a massive difference! An 11mph gain in TS is excellent. $100 isn't bad at all, considering the number of passes that gives you. $1 per second doesn't sound as good though It'll be very interesting to see how much quicker you'll go with a 100hp shot. With good traction the low 12's / high 11's (@ 120mph) may well be possible! Cheers, Matt

What's the bottle cost to fill, and how many passes per bottle? So do you run it on the street? C'mon tell the truth now The ONLY down side I can see in having gas (rather than a bigger turbo etc...) is you don't get to use the power whenever you want to. Say on a cruise in the hills, a full track day, the traffic light grand prix, and that sort of thing. I guess if you have a huge nitrous bottle it wouldn't be a problem. The legality issue isn't as much of a concern as what ISN'T illegal these days. A bigger turbo AND gas is the best way to go. Hmmm... cams or nitrous? How quick is your car without the gas?

Well done Adrian, nice work mate. Indeed the standard turbo does work great, mind you when you add nitrous you'd expect it too. Hmmm... maybe I should get myself a 50hp kit too.

Only 'cause of the phat subs in the boot though mate

Traction off the line (and right up till 3rd) I know ALL about! Even when I've managed to get good power down over the first 60ft it still goes up in smoke after that I had a 2.07 60ft last weekend got to 80ft and decided to light it up. You might have to ask Brett for a lend of his Nittos

Congrats on the new(~ish) numbers Adrian. Very nice vid footage too Just goes to show how well nitrous and turbo/super charging go together. Any plans to increase the nitrous shot?

No prob's dude It's not really thaaaat complex, just sounds like it is. As long as the engine doesn't detonate, and isn't misfiring, your laughing.

Bit of a major hijack here Dean, don't worry dude I'm still focused on your AFM dramas mate Tim, there are a few basic rules when it comes to plugs and modifying. Here's a short bust from the NGK web site (with a few additions from me); it'll give you a bit more of an idea: With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 HP you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage. An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a "Band-Aid" approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug. When it comes to plug gap those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making the smaller the gap you will need. A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximises burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark. With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think. Be cautious! In reality, most "racing" spark plugs are just colder heat ranges of the street versions of the spark plug. They don't provide any more voltage to the spark plug tip! Their internal construction is no different (in NGK's case, as all of our spark plugs must conform to the same level of quality controls) than most standard spark plugs. NGK as a company tries to stay clear of saying that a racing spark plug (or ANY spark plug) will give you large gains in horsepower. While certain spark plugs are better suited to certain applications (and we're happy to counsel you in the right direction) we try to tell people that are looking to "screw in" some cheap horsepower that, in most cases, spark plugs are not the answer. To be blunt, when experienced tuners build race motors, they select their spark plugs for different reasons: to remove heat more efficiently, provide sufficient spark to completely light all the air/fuel mixture, to survive the added stresses placed upon a high performance engine's spark plugs, and to achieve optimum piston-to-plug clearance. Some of these "specialised racing plugs" are made with precious metal alloy centre/ground electrodes or fine wire tips or retracted-nose insulators. Again, these features do not necessarily mean that the spark plug will allow the engine to make more power, but these features are what allow the spark plug to survive in these tortuous conditions. Most racers know screwing in a new set of spark plugs will not magically "unlock" hidden horsepower. When the heat rating is too high: The spark plug temperature remains too low and causes deposits to build up on the firing end; the deposits offer an electrical leakage path that gives rise to loss of sparks. This is where cold starts can become a problem. The plug tip is obviously at it coldest when the engine is first cranked over. A very cold plug (8 and higher) will take some time to get heat into it and can foul due to low initial plug temp, and the small plug gap normally run in an engine with large horsepower. You can even add the larger injector sizes normally found in large horsepower engines to the potential cause of fouling cold plugs. This is very dependent on the choice of ECU and how well it controls the injectors at idle – small millisecond openings. When the heat rating is too low: The spark plug temperature rises too high and induces abnormal combustion (pre-ignition): this leads to melting of the spark plug electrodes as well as piston seizure and erosion.

Thanks for the info mate.

Yeah I'm startin' to get into the newer lingo Tim skidmark, I've used Alpine gear a fair bit over the years, always been very happy with it. Your 7850R will probably still be going strong for yrs to come.

The 7893R is the previous model (might be a model below?) either way the RRP on the 7893R was $899. The RRP on the 9815 is $999 so yeah pretty much the same thing. Hahaha... direct from Lebanon styles I dunno' know man... stuff from Lebanon is likely to blow up suicide bomber styles! Yeah Tim I kinda' mentioned Mel's name in the early dealing with Ang. She obviously carries a bit of clout 'round these parts 'cause they were only to happy to help once they knew I was on a forum with Mel

Yeah mate I do, and yep it's a stockie. The actuator is down at BW, help yourself.

Good to hear mate.

Yeah mate that's the one.

In between the whole Boost Worx dyno day and running at AIR I completely forgot about my minor audio upgrade. I had the following bits fitted: Front - Rockford Fosgate 5 1/4" splits Rear - Earthquake 6.5" 2 ways (excellent bass for such a small speaker) Amp - 4ch Lightning Audio Bolt B2.300.4 Head Unit - Alpine CDA9815 Ang (sp?), Shayne and Steve from Compete Audio were absolutely excellent from start to finish. I can't recommend them more highly I'm sure Miss Nismo (Mel) would agree Their level of customer service, after sales support, value for money and level of workmanship has been first class so far.

Series 2 or 3 RX7 with a fairly tidy 13B turbo. It's all been parted out now. They don't muck around!!! Ran the car on Sat' and the parts are sold already!

Of course I'm right! I'm always right But seriously... it's a good question mate, what to do indeed!? Have a chat with Nightcrawler (Andy) as he is planning on doing the exact same thing you need... Z32 with Unichip/stock ECU. If it can be done, and who knows? Maybe it can then your laughing. I couldn't be stuffed going down that path, plus Tim (ex RPM owner/boss/tuning guru) gave me an excellent plan B.

I'd say they are the ones I quoted mate. I dropped into Tilbrooks late yesterday arvo just to see if Mark maybe had some NGK BRK7EVX's (plugs I usually run - I highly recommend these) as I could only track down 3 in the whole of Adelaide (not an off the shelf plug). He gave me a set of the copper V-Power 8's and said to give them a go, as he uses them in lots of powerful RB's with good results. Even John's motor runs them. How do you find them on cold mornings? Idle quality? Any fouling due to low initial tip temp?

Hahaha, yeah Steve deep down it's all about the Rice baby, itz fully sik mate I had a type 3 a while back, yep it wasn't the best. I've been thinking about the whole drag tyre thing, I'm not that keen on full slicks (doesn't go with the street car theme - HPI drag challenge) but a smaller rim and larger profile might be on the cards... 15's or 16's with a bit more side wall. Shaun ran Yoko A032R's on a 14 or 15" rim and they were brilliant! Those ET Streets down at the workshop actually belong to Ben. Lach, Yep good call, low mass is another very big help, so much easier to get it moving off the line.

Hey Bob I'm getting a message from beyond the grave (Crossing Over style ) I have a strange feeling that the plugs you run are... NGK copper "V-Power 8" (R5671A-8) Would I be right?

N/A, Shaun from Boost Worx tuned my car. Steve, What did you write to start with mate? EDIT: Forget that, just saw the bit you deleted. Yeah dude I ended up getting a Turbosmart Type 2 V port. I'm not interested in big trumpets and lots of noise, just high CFM capability, and the ability to hold big boost. Ben's Supra runs the same valve and it's never even looked like leaking, even at 28psi. Quite a few big boost/power drag cars use the same valve without dramas. That's good enough for me Annnnnd maybe it might have something to do with the fact it's blue/silver I told a GFB rep about how much power/boost I was running with the GFB "Basic", he gave me a wide eyed look and said, "no wonder it was struggling, it's not made to handle those levels! It's actually a stout little BOV considering it didn't leak until ~18psi. Lach, Really well actually mate. He had a best ET of 12.1 and a best MPH of 120+. Near on 210rwkw and bugger all weight certainly makes for a quick little car! Shaun can drive too! 1.7 60ft on one pass.

This Wednesday would be tomorrow dude, no meet on tomorrow But yeah I'll be running at the 4, 6 and rotary street meet next Wednesday (17Mar04) That's if things go close to plan.

100% agree Andy. Shaun was running 1.9's after doing small burnouts, as soon as he did a big burnout (for the camera) that dropped to 1.7 I'll be opting for a bigger burnout from now on.

I should be there, again. Maybe 3rd time lucky, or unlucky.

What you've posted makes perfect sense Martin. Hmmm... I didn't think you ran 122-124 with 280rwkw though? I thought you didn't go that fast until the Soarer was into the 300's? Either way, very resepctable numbers for such a heavy car! Makes mine look bloody slow in comparison... gee thanks Yeah I dropped the pressure down to ~20psi Clint, didn't seem to help much though. I know I need to actually hold the burnout. So far I've just been dropping the clutch in 2nd and spinning up to the line. Thanks John. I'm planning to head out to next 4, 6 & Rotary meet (17th) If nothing else but to see if car has gained anything with the new BOV, that appears to now hold boost - unlike the one I did have.