whatsisname

Should go very well.

Hip, Yeah a decent shock upgrade is in the pipeline (shocks are the only sus mod left to do). Busky2k, I'll be at the Nat's, but who cares about my car I want to see Munro & Keir running 8's Matt, Yeah mate nothing but good ol' as it comes out of the pump BP98. Hopefully later today we'll get to see how much more it can make 'safely' with more timing & a bit of octane boost.

Thanks mate Yeah a bit of side by side fun would be good First things first though I want to concentrate on getting some decent numbers. Shaun will be doing a bit more tune work tomorrow (the CR allows more timing to be added) so a few more rwkw would be nice. If we can sort the boost drop issue (small but worth rectifing) before the nats that'd be nice too. I guess I could go crazy with boost but to be honest I'd rather keep it closer to what I'll run on the street. I'm not out to set any records (don't have the power for that) Should be good fun

I'll see how I go on the everyday 540's. I'm not expecting too much, I haven't dragged the car for a looong time! Yeah I doubt I'd go for 55's after your experience with them, unless they've improved them? Here's the dyno sheet from the recent tuning. The power dropping off at the top end of the curve is due to the 2psi boost drop I mentioned above. And for those that are real nit pickers, yes I know the 17psi run is only 265rwkw but the best on 17psi was 268.Xrwkw, so there

I'll probably stick with 540's mate, HPI style Another small piece of info that's worth mentioning.... the original plan was to use 8.0:1 CP pistons & o'ring, however this plan changed to using a Grex 1.6m gasket. Due to this change I thought that the final CR had ended up @ 8.4:1, however the final ratio is indeed 8.0. We can now lean on the timing a tad more than we have

Thanks guys Timing is 15' on 17-19psi. The cars next run @ AIR will be during the 4,6 & Rotary Nat's Shaun gave me an offer I couldn't refuse Late breaking news! As the car is still at the workshop (had a few minor things to do) Shaun is going to run more boost/timing to see how much it can make for drag strip duties Gotta' love the Microtech LT handsets ability to hold 4 different maps

The tuning has been done The old engine made a best of 257rwkw on .95bar, this figure was achieved with a less than 'safe' tune. I say less than safe as it cracked a ring land. The new engine (with a nice 'safe' tune) made 268rwkw on 1.1bar & 273rwkw on 1.3bar. The peak gain between 1.1 & 1.3 doesn't sound like much but the torque & mid range gains are impressive (700n of tractive effort & ~20rwkw). The minimal peak gain is due to boost dropping by ~2psi up the top end. A 1.0bar actuator, or increased tension with the current actuator, would see a few more rwkw on the same boost levels. I wasn't exactly suprised that the actuator problem arose. Judging by the increase in power & torque (across the rev range) that 2psi made, & the fact that inlet temps don't increase with the extra 2psi, I'd say my turbo still has more in it. I'm sure that with 1.5-1.7bar it would make quite a bit more power. I'm very happy with ~270rwkw on 1.1bar all day everyday A huge thanks to Shaun (Boost Worx) for spending the best part of 2days on final tidy- up work & tuning, & charging me stuff all considering the number of hrs!

Yep sounds spot on to me Dean.

Yeah good call mate I have lost the plot haven't I Doh! I have drag on the brain. Of course aerodynamic drag will not change the result of diff, g'box & tyre size speed calculation. I dunno' what I was thinking about there? Drag will however make it harder for a car to reach it potential maximum top speed.

J, So you can confirm how accurate my Car Speed Calulator vs. your actual reading is I'll give you the CSC reading for 3,000rpm 4th gear - The CSC suggests that on 225/50/16's you "should" be doing 86.87km/h in 4th @ 3,000rpm. Let me know what you get mate.

Al, I used a car speed estimator table that uses g'box ratio, diff ratio, & wheel/tyre circumference. It spat out 204.12km/h @ 7000rpm in 4th. This is using a 255/40/17 tyre size. nightmare5, According to the same car speed estimator I mentioned above, the speed in 5th at 5,000rpm will be 193.88km/h. The limiter (usually ~180-190km/h) would be pretty much at those rev's! 6,500rpm in 5th is 252km/h 7,000rpm in 5th (if you have enough power & tarmac to get close to those rev's) is ~271km/h

I've sat a few lengths behind an R34 GT-R with a 300km/h speedo that was showing close to ~260km/h. Not sure what rev's I was doing as I was more keen on looking down the track. If you have enough room I'm sure you'd get more than 235km/h Al. How accurate is the speed reading on the FC Controller? Where does it take the signal from?

I'd be a little careful running up to 14.5psi with a standard intercooler.

An R33 GTS25t is "capable" of over 200km/h in 4th. It has the gearing to do it. 7000rpm in 4th is 204km/h, before you factor in drag.

We all do the wrong thing from time to time, but a bit of common sense on the roads would go a long way to improving our (imports & modified car owners in general) image. I'm not suggesting we never ever dare to exceed posted limits, or accelerate heavily to the limit, but a bit of common sense & descretion as to when & where we "enjoy" our cars is a good idea. That said I think the damage was done long ago & we will all pay for it for a long time to come We pay for it in the form of higher insurance premiums (or rejection of insurance for younger drivers!) & additional negative focus by SAPOL & Regency Park.

When upgrading my injectors I did a little research into the JDM/OZ spec S15 injector issue. Unley Nissan here in Adelaide (known to be 'import friendly' dealers) couldn't give me an answer as to whether the JDM & OZ S15 injectors were the same (I'm sure someone on SAU knows) APS in Melbourne would know as they highflow the stock OZ S15 injectors as part of their JR (?) kits. 6 new S15 injectors from Nissan Aust are more than 1k! Boli, As Steve said, excellent link mate! Steg33, If you look at the site Boli posted you can see in the 3rd & 4th columns in from the right it gives you cc rating at higher fuel pressures, i.e take the top injector (stock RB25DET/SR20DET) at 3.55kgcm2 of fuel pressure the 370cc injector will flow 440cc. This is how stock RB25DET injectors can support quite large gains in hp. Pushing injectors beyond their rated capacity (via a reg) is not wise unless the fuel pump is able to cope with the increase load placed on it. EDIT: It's also interesting they list what appears to be the minimum duty cycle (milliseconds 0.69 etc...) achieveable depending on the fuel pressure used.

I was always very impressed by my Unichip (when I had it) It's only when the stock ECU reaches its limitations does the Unichip become an issue. At the time (3yrs ago) no Unichip agent (including APS) could confirm for me that the Unichip/stock ECU combo could work via a Z32 AFM? At ~225rwkw the Unichip could no longer prevent massive timing reduction via the stock ECU sensing a seriously maxed out AFM voltage! It was for this reason (& a few others) that I removed my Unichip & went for a fully programmable ECU. Dean you may find your car doesn't display the same characteristics as mine did (I also had a much larger turbo & cam gear adjustment at the time) but as airflow gets higher, via improved breathing, your AFM will reach the same point mine did. Your stock ECU will be the deciding factor. Mine pulled 15' timing out 3x in one power run. This resulted in a peak of ~225rwkw with a number of 15-30rwkw dips, & a pig of a car to drive Think, 'good ol' R33 flatspot,' & then you'll know what I mean. If someone has successfully got a Z32 AFM to work with the stock ECU (don't see why not) then you'll have no problems EDIT: Just had a good look at the dyno sheet mate. Firstly, congrats on the power. Second, your before & after power curves are the same as mine were! I asked Turbo Tune at the time (only real option for tuning Unichip in SA - unless you head to Port Augusta) if they could do a Z32-stock ECU set-up, they weren't sure but would give it a go! I didn't bother. Ask TT why they couldn't completely get the rid of the small dips in your power curve? I'll be interested to see the answer.

For a street driven Skyline I'd personally put more value in hot air escaping whilst stationary or very low speed (btw lights etc) over any potential heat reduction at speed. On the road the inlet/water temps are "usually" at their highest whilst stationary, or at very low speed. If a simple/cheap raised bonnet reduces temps while stationary (or low speed) by a few degrees I'd say it's worth it, providing the bonnet doesn't become an accident hazard!

Hmmm.... $160 isn't as bad as I was expecting. Thanks for the info dean Shite Steve, sounds scary mate! Glad to see the car looking AOK in the carpark this morning. You certainly do need 540S's. Of course they can still be provoked to let go if you try hard enough (managed a nice powerslide out of one Chain of Ponds corner).

It's #4 for sure mate

Can't help you on the MRE question mate, as I (or anyone I know) have never had any dealings with them. If the tuner isn't familiar with the model of car then I would be hesitant, but I'd be even more hesitant if they were unfamiliar with the ECU. Re LT12, yep no closed loop. The new LT16 has closed loop AFAIK. Joel may have more info on the LT16? My economy is quite reasonable for no CL & 550cc injectors. I did 260k yesterday. I checked the fuel gauge before leaving & it was dead on the 3/4 mark. 260k later it's just above the 1/4 mark. My driving was faaar from economical I really couldn't give you a price on tuning as it was over a few sessions & mixed in with many other mod's, sorry mate A very rough ball park guess of $500?

Dean, Yeah the bike rider giving me a thumbs up put a smile on my dial I've mostly been going out to Mannum & then back through to Nurioopta, via Birdwood/Mount Pleasant/Eden Valley/Williamstown/Tanunda etc... Just depends on the day. I've got just under 600k till tune time 2 more runs & I'm done. Won't be heading to Mannum again for a while though. They've resurfaced the road out that way & it's stone chip city. Turned around & headed back the other day after 50mtrs of it Joel, When I had a look at the dyno sheet I asked Shaun what boost level it was running at. He said it was just starting to creep to ~10-11psi. I wasn't sure if the exhaust changes (removed resi & dump pipe modded) would effect the stock boost level? It certainly did change things. As far as I can recall the boost always sat dead on 7psi with EBC off, whereas now it just creeps up to ~10psi, in the manner mentioned above. I hope I don't join the list of those that require a HKS actuator! 18-20psi is a big ask of the stock actuator/HKS EVC.

The only negative I can think of with the PFC is injector impedance limitations, correct me if I'm wrong? Straight fit Jap side feed injectors (that snake will require if he goes to that level) are very expensive & usually require collars to complete the install, so the final cost adds up. Mind you if you get lucky with customs, or find some 2nd hand, I'm sure they can be bought for reasonable prices. Other than the above issue (if I've got it right?) I'd say the PFC is a very solid choice of ECU. Having said that I couldn't be happier with my LT12

Well I did ~260k up through the hills yesterday & I must say the new engine is excellent with some boost into it It's very responsive even with the EBC turned off. Obviously boost response will be quite different once final tuning is done (& EBC is controlling boost). The only downside - less restrictive exhaust means more noise. Sounds good echoing off the surroundings though I now realise what Shaun meant about boost creeping up to 10-11psi on actuator pressure. The boost sits dead on 7psi (as per stock actuator) until ~6k then creeps to ~10psi. Did a bit of monitoring of inlet & water temps too (no laptop atm so no full logging) The following temps were just snap shots, i.e what I saw when I looked x3. Not excatly hard'n'fast tech info but some may find it interesting? Ambient temp - ~24'c Water temp - Steady accel from 80 to 110km/h+++ 82'-84'c. Later in the day (cooler ambient) 80'c. Sitting on roadside for 3mins (post heavy accel) bonnet down temp hit 90'c, took 90sec on road to drop back to 84'c Inlet air temp (IAT) reading via Microtech sensor just prior to throttle body - Cruising at 50-60km/h IAT ~27-28'c Steady accel 80 to 110km/h IAT ~25'c Heavy accel to 110km/h (maybe a little more ) IAT as low as 19-20'c, this was later in the day so lower ambient. Sitting on the roadside for 3mins (post heavy accel) bonnet down IAT hit 40'c, dropped to 28-29'c within 90sec on road. Finally, I have to say having RE540S's all round is a blast through the hills, especially now I know the roads so well. Had a bit of fun with a Yamaha R1 who was behind me for a bit. I'm no great driver but I must've done ok 'cause, A) he didn't pass me, & B) he lifted his visor & gave me a grin & thumbs up Jeeze I crapped on a bit there!

Sounds like it was a good cruise. Perfect weather for it! I'll be back cruising again as soon as I'm at full power