whatsisname

Arggggggggghhhh... Don't you hate it went your 11mth old little girl hits keyboard wildly & wipes the whole post you've just type up!!! I'll try again, Steve, It isn't a lack of faith in the stock internals that stopped me running more boost. I've always been limited by the stock 370cc'ers. Even with the 044 pump & Malpassi reg (+raised f/pressure) I hit 'max duty' on the Microtech logger @ ~16-17psi. For this reason I self imposed a limit of ~1.0bar for safety sake. Didn't help me though Mind you it appears the failure was timing NOT fuel related. Seeing as how I had to rebuild the motor I may as well set it up to cope with a bit more power Now that I have Sard 550's going in the fuel system will allow for much higher boost levels, as will the lower compression. The idea is to run the new motor in on the stock 370's & current tune (not a very good idea to try & totally retune a fresh engine with bigger inj) then fit the 550's & wind up the boost to see what it can make with a good safety margin. Time for you to get some RE540S's mate. I have fond memories of straight line 110km/h wheelspin with average road rubber But a car that can't put down its ponies until 3rd gets to be a pain in the arse after a while. Good rubber makes such a difference! All of a sudden I could use WOT in 2nd again (not when cold though!) 11.8 AFR & converative timing is a v/good way to go. skip, I'm a bit crazy, love my car & I make ok money, but it's still not enough to keep up the habit & do all the other things a family man does

Thanks dude I'll keep you posted.

G'day J, Yeah good mate, yourself? As you can probably tell I'm a part timer on here these days (I'm more of a surfer than a car hoon nowdays:)) Still going to be using the trusty T3/T4. I've never pushed much more than 1.0bar through it & Vince Rigoli said it was good for 20psi no prob's. I guess we'll soon see on the dyno. Going from 13 to 14 to 15psi it has always made more power without a drama. If it doesn't make 280+ I won't be fazed, 260+ is still fine. I'm just looking forward to being able to go past the magical 1.0bar mark without fear of failure. I've got a few minor exhaust changes that should help a touch too.

She's comin' along real nice Steve. Top job! I'd put money on it cracking the 300rwkw mark once the gasket, cams & gear are done mate. Oh yeah, like the others have said, get some shiny bits in there! You need a bit of rice in the bay I polished my covers but I'm getting them done again @ the same time as the cam belt cover.

Hip, I'd love to keep it mate It's either the car or her (well something like that). Ahhh... I'll miss her Andrew, Thanks for the offer dude, but o'ringing & a stock gasket is the way I'm going. Someone will snap it up quick for that price. Joel, Yeah it's been a looong time coming! Yeah I've still got the Sigma mate, I just rang outta' room to list her. The Liberty is much nicer on surf trips that's for sure. Jase, RPM Performance Centre are handling the basics (Tim will be doing the post run in tune) & James from Nisspeed is doing the rebuild.

For those of you that can remember that far back my engine is finally in the mid stages of its rebuild. The bottom end is apart as we speak. No:1 was the culprit! Major ringland damage. It failed (180km/h in 4th) & yet it took 3 or 4 more drives before the problem showed itself. Now for the big one.... ZERO traces of leanness, the engine builder firmly believes that too much timing was the cause. Food for thought. Don't ask me how much timing (static & ECU) the motor was running cause it's been so long that I can't bloody remember. Rods are all good as is the head & valves etc... Once the motor is run in, in go the 550's & hopefully we'll see ~280-300rwkw on 18-20psi. Wishful thinking perhaps, but I believe the turbo is capable. James (engine builder) thinks 300rwkw. 260+ & I'll be happy. Unfortunately it will still have to go to a new owner early next yr.

I paid $26ea from Unley Nissan here in SA. I re-used the original bolt seals, no prob's so far.... if you ignore the fact that No:1 ringland cracked unrelated of course.

Ummm my car might be getting its new engine atm but the old times were worthy of a mention I think. See sig' below The 13.0 was actually a 13.016

Pauline for PM I say That'll sort the country out!

In NSW authorised garages/workshops carry out the yearly rego inspections. There are literally hundreds of these authorised workshops, & they're all privately owned. In other words places like RPM Performance Centre, Tilbrook Auto Dyno & the like Some workshops will pass anything, whereas others are known to be very tough. It’s very simple, if you don't get the result you’re after (a pass) then you go elsewhere. Unless your car has major faults you WILL find someone to pass it! Been there done that The authorised inspection workshops in the NSW system can lose their licence if they are linked to an unroadworthy car (ie it gets defected due to a major safety fault). This ensures that they don't just pass anything. It doesn’t stop many authorised workshops from doing extremely relaxed inspections. I’ve had places do a brake test on my car (the inspection requires a brake test print out) & they haven’t even started my car! The bottom line is… what the owner does to his/her car immediately after it leaves the workshop is out of the workshop’s control. So as long as the basics are ok you’ll be fine. I very much doubt the SA Government has the funds to increase staff at Regency to cope will yearly inspections. Hence it will be contracted out in the same fashion as NSW & VIC etc. They is no way in hell one single workshop will be able to cope with all cars that fall within the inspection criteria. The people that will have trouble with a yearly inspection system are those with shitbox cars rusting to pieces & blowing huge amounts of smoke & the like. These kinds of faults can’t be removed & re-installed if you get my drift – no pun intended Steve, In NSW all cars over 2yrs old are subject to yearly rego inspections. In my 15yrs in NSW I never had a car fail a yearly inspection. It sometimes took a second workshop but I still never failed

Well done Clint! 1.89 60' Go the 540's!!!

Enrico, VIS is NOT a full roadworthy. It’s supposed to be for identity purposes ONLY. As fat313 stated above, they look to confirm the VIN, engine, & compliance no's match what is recorded on the national database. They also check the car is legally yours etc. Of course being Regency they'll be only too happy to pick up ANY unroadworthy item they notice. So if you get a bastard of an inspector lookout! Hence I'd recommend going to the place down south that I went to, if it still exists? Here we go, have a read of this info from the TransportSA website - http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/registratio...inspections.asp & here - http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/registratio...egistration.asp Edit: It looks like the place I took my car through no longer exists Bummer. I'd suggest finding a residential address over 40kms from the Adelaide GPO, a family member that lives in a country town with a friendly local cop perhaps?

I took my car, complete with lots'o'mods, through for a VIS (Vehicle Identity Inspection) & only got knocked back on the MOMO s/wheel, which was actually ADR legal anyway. However I didn't go to Regency due to the nasty reputation the place has (for good reason!) I went to another inspection station down south. Stuffed if can remember where it was though The place only does/did VIS's not full inspections. My advice is to avoid Regency if at all possible. You can even have a VIS done via the local police station if you live in an area so many kms from the CBD. Have a read through the TransportSA website. Seek out the loopholes

A snapped timing belt + rev's usually ='s bent valves & stuffed pistons. I feel for you if this is the case mate

That's a very good question mate. I was thinking around August?

Price I'm not 100% sure on Steve? I'll find out for you today. They do look rather flash don't they Update: A set of CP pistons to suit the RB25DET is $1600

CP's See here - http://www.cppistons.com/

Al, Drive it mate! I did the reverse of what you're looking at doing (Sydney - Adelaide) & it was a hoot If you're worried about access to 98RON then take a few 20L jerry cans of 98 in the boot. That's what I did. In the end I only needed to use 1 can for the trip. Everywhere else had 98. As for stone chips & bugs etc.. Well you've seen my car & the front bar hasn't been touched since that drive across (other than polish). Like JR33 I stopped every so often to clean the front end of bugs & grime. This time of yr roo's aren't as much of a problem too! The cost of a good quality full front bar respray is less than the transport costs. Plus there's always that chance the car will recieve damage during transport. My final words of advice...... If you want something done right, do it yourself

Hip, Thanks for the kind words mate Steve, Yeah I'm not too fussed about having to sell it at the moment. Different story when I get it back with the new motor

The R33 ECU-to-loom plug is prone to warping slightly. This can cause intermittent operation, as the pins & sockets don't form a good contact. To see if this is the cause of your dramas try using cable ties to pull both ends of the plug connection together tightly. As well as doing up the centre bolt firmly. I doubt it'll be the actual ECU itself. If you still want to borrow another ECU then I'm sorry to say I can't help you there. I'm the same as Steve, but I sold mine rather than giving it away

When I eventually buy another 'toy' down the track I'll be looking out for car like mine. Most of the good bits already done.

Steve, you got me thinking mate, so I sat down & did a VERY rough list of the cost to date. I was being fairly conservative with the prices too. To date there is at least 30k put into the car on top of the cost of the car itself. That doesn't include some of the work currently in progress. Sard 550cc injectors for one. I've spent enough money on cars in the last 10yrs to build Munro's drag 33. And I'm dead serious! Kind of makes sense that my missus has had enough.

Thanks mate

One VERY BIG factor that needs to be considered is the health of the internals BEFORE turning up the wick. A motor that's had a hard 100k before it gets into your hands may well fail at 250rwkw. A fresher motor might hold on 30-40k or even longer? How many kays does the motor REALLY have on it when you get the car? My motor was putting out over 200+rwkw for 2+yrs (not many kays travelled though) I REALLY looked after the engine too (the whole car in fact). I'd say that the engine would have lasted quite a bit longer with a more mild turn. And slightly less power. My motor cracked a ringland on #6. Not an uncommon point of failure in the RB25DET.

wilco, This might sound like an unrealistic amount to ask for a '94 model but I'm thinking ~28k neg. The car needs to be seen to understand the high price