whatsisname

Nice comeback mate

It's not the starting ability that's in question with these batteries. After all a 5sec 800CCA start pulse would want to do a good job! It's the quality control & longevity that's the issue! 6mths under "normal" useage isn't what I'd class as value for money I could accept the fact that I had a one-off bad one but when MANY other people report that same problem (including stockists) then I'd be taking my money elsewhere (as I did). The lack of customer service from Odyssey in OZ is the final nail in the coffin.

Might well be Jim? As I was getting at above, it still doesn't mean that this particular car is the "real" Type M. To my way of thinking it's just showing what NISMO (or any other aftermarket Japanese company) can do to a R33 Type M. Like Tommy K R33 Type M, or the Impul R33 Type M & so on...

I had an Odyssey ES12V800, what a piece of crap! It dropped a cell in less than 6mths. I spoke with a few Odyssey battery stockists & users, I was shocked to find a number of them had failed within 12mths! To make matters worse the Odyssey rep treated me like an idiot & only OK'd the warranty claim after it was proven (in person) that it had failed due to poor quality construction. I offered the rep to test my car's elec system to show him it wasn't a charging sytem fault that killed the battery too! I got my money back & now run a Yellow Top Optima ($405) - that hasn't missed a beat & starts the car in a flash even after sitting for a few wks

I read that as saying, this is what we can to an R33 Type M. Not that this is a special model - called the Type M. If you get what I mean?

Some pretty sweeping generalisations there Adrian I must be one of the 10%, 'cause I can f**king assure you my car/s are not fashion accessories!

Friday the 13th & all

I think the '95 model GTS25t's just became the prefered choice when buying on a very limited performance budget. I could've saved heaps if I'd have started with a '95! With the usual FMIC, exhaust, pod & extra boost the good ol' 94 ECU went filthy rich giving me a grand total of 126rwkw. The car felt like it too It took a Unichip & retune ($1200 later) to give me ~185rwkw. Bugalugs goes out & does the same basic mod's (without touching the ECU) kills my car on the dyno &, more importantly, on the drag strip!

J, I thought it, you posted it Oh yeah, I was with you on this from the start mate! More evidence to add to the, '95's are better' line of thinking..... Bugalugs ran his stock ECU'd 95 GTS25t to a 13.4 @ near on 107mph at a private drag day last month. His car has a 3" exhaust off the turbo, pod filter, upped boost (12-13 or so psi) & FMIC. Nothing else! It also made 204rwkw at a dyno day last yr. 2 other GTS25t's on the same drag day (not 95's) had more mod's, including a Power FC & Microtech LT12. Bugalugs' car was equal to the LT12 car & faster then the PFC car! Both in ET & TS, & regardless of 60' times.

Hip, No mate nothing about different spec's of turbo. Only the fact that the series 2 ('96 on) uses an upgraded unit compared to the series 1. By upgraded I mean it shows the improvement in response from using lighter materials. HOTR33, Normally I wouldn’t be like I’m about to be on this site, but…. well you just take the cake It looks like I'll have to do a bit of scanning then How about a rep’ from Nissan Japan? Will that satisfy you? I 100% know that the R33 'TYPE M' tag signifies it is the turbo model, this is due to the numerous references to this fact in the Nissan documentation I have (documentation that a number of other forum users have witnessed with their own eyes). Add to this the fact that many other people are of the same opinion on this matter. Now you tell me what evidence you have seen to prove otherwise? Apart from a few “high performance Japanese car specialists”. So far the list below is what “you’ve” told us separates the R33 “Type M” from the non – Type M turbo (that doesn’t exist!) – “The Type-M has different lower body parts, Chamelion Paint, a Duel Entry, Hi-Flow Ball Bearing Turbo and different gear ratio's...” The 40th Anniversary GTS25t came out in GT-R Midnight Purple Metallic. That is the only different paint option that was offered other than the normal factory choices. All series 2 R33 paint options are listed in my catalogues. Different gear ratios? No there isn’t. The whole R33 GTS25t range has the same ratios (the only difference being btw auto & manual). Even the A-LSD GTS25t Type M has the exact same ratios. “the biggest give away is the sound of them.. The Type-M turbo's sound so much different to the standard turbo” You’ve got to be kidding me! The sound of a turbo will vary due to a large number of reasons, & that’s between 2 turbos of the exact same type! “Type-M is like the .... AMG Version of a Merc, if you will.. or M5 of BMW..” That’s a pretty poor example actually. Try… Type M is to Type S like Silvia K’s is to Silvia Q’s. Yes the K is the turbo model & the Q is the NA model. Type M is the turbo & Type S is the NA model. There are other lower spec NA R33 models that are NOT Type S’s but there’s only Type M GTS25t’s. “There are several things which have been said which I think to be false” Several? Why do you believe them to be false? “Basically unless anyone here has spoken to the Original Design Team at Nissan in Japan (The ones who desided how it would look, what parts, what models etc.) ...I'm afraid NO-ONE, including my self, knows 100% what is what.. we go by hear-say” So you’re saying that the catalogues Nissan released at the time of the R33 aren’t 100% factual? Yes YOU haven’t seen them personally, but in time you will, & a bunch of other forum users have. "Disagree with me if you want... But how can 'The guy down the road' know exactly, down to the very last nut or hose, know exactly what was designed.." The only person I see going by, ‘the guy down the road’, is YOU! "Just becuase he imports them, dosen't mean he knows it all.. Or just becuase it was on a web page.. dosen't mean it's right...” Yep exactly! “Type-M's have a GTR grille.. the difference is the black mesh in them.. GTR ones have no Mesh, GTS-t ones have mesh...” Type M’s have either the stock grill or whatever the original owner requested. There were a number of OPTIONAL body kit add ons offered via the factory. GT-R wing, side skirts, grill options, the works! The car could have no body kit or the works; it’s still a Type M! "and when you buy a Type-M from the factory, it comes with factory sideskirts... which can be referred to as a 'Type-M' factory body kit (including front bar and grille, rear wing and side skirts)" As above, the Type M ‘COULD’ be optioned with a number of body kit parts. As per the optional parts catalogue that I have. “your front bar stays more straight down.. wheras mine curves under the car more... (Type-M Front Bar)” No your front bar (that curves under) means that the Japanese owner didn’t order the car with ANY of the front bar body kit options, ie that’s how the stock Type M comes if you don’t option a front bar body kit! Now, I wouldn’t be here firing with all guns blazing if you hadn’t come along claiming that I/we were wrong & not all GTS25t are Type M’s (“The Comment "All GTS-t's are Type-M's" is completely Wrong…”) You haven’t given any factual info on how you’ve come to your conclusions. Even unsighted I would have given credibility if what you had said was based on factory paperwork. Sure what I’ve typed “could” be fabricated, but I KNOW IT ISN’T DUE TO THE PAPERWORK I HAVE, that other forum regulars have seen. End rant.

My source is the Nissan Japan R33 model sales documentation, as released when the R33 came out! I have 3 full catalogs on ALL R33 models (including GT-R) which contain the spec's & options for ALL models! So if you're saying you are still correct I guess you must know better than Nissan Japan TYPE M is the turbo in the R33 range - TRUST ME ON THIS! There is no such thing as an R33 "GTS-t". It's badged as 'GTS25t'.

All you ever wanted to know about PCV - http://www.hastingsfilter.com/engineering/.../tsb_94-2r.html Why have ANY crankcase vapor entering the manifold I say?

No not really mate, I was just interested to see which one/s let go on yours. No1 & No6 are the usual culprits.

Do a search dude! This info has been covered MANY times in the past. R33 Type M "differences". In short "Type M" means ANY RB25DET powered R33 (bar the Stagea or special one off limited models). The Type M tag signifies it is a turbo model, the same as Silvia Q's (non- T) & Silvia K's (T). *There is no such thing as a non-Type M R33 GTS25t* R32 GTS-t's I have no idea?

Pretty damn quick for a luxobarge taxi pack, with a larger-than-your-average-bear driver The exhaust note was rather interesting? From the side of the track it almost sounded like a compressed air cylinder that someone just knocked the end off! (yes I have heard what that sounds like!). I wanna' see how quick the XR6T ute can go with minor tweaks? I know it ran in the high 13's. I'm sure it's got more in it without having to upgrade the turbo. Rob, Martin can fill you on the all the details but to start the ball rolling the black BA XR8 has been supercharged. There's only one thing better than cubes, forced induction & cubes!

The valve you've blocked with a screw is the PCV valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Not much point fitting a catch can if the PCV valve is still operating as intended Except for looks.

You've lost me there Joel? What's in who's original post? Edit: Ok I think I 've got it sussed. You mean B-man's original post about HIS engine failure has all the info on what broke, yes?

Martin, So it was the diff, my bad, sorry about that. I heard Simon talking about the box making those nasty noises Plus the problems with shifts on the strip. Good to see it was a quick fix

Hippy, I think you'll find Martin's Soarer was closer to 350rwkw on Elf Turbomax fuel. The 120+mph terminal speed on one of the earlier less troublesome passes is a good indication it has MUCH more in it. I say, "less troublesome", as Simon didn't get one clean pass. Good burnouts though Oh yeah, Martin's Soarer would weight near on 1700kg with a driver onboard. 120+mph on an very average pass pulling 1700kg is about what I'd expect for 350rwkw. Clint, Hehe, Yeah true I actually asked Martin, "how he felt about someone else thrashing his car?" He had faith in Simon's ability to keep everything together. The Soarer's 'box had already been rebuilt sometime ago (was a feature in HPI or Zoom). The 1JZGTE Soarer 5sp box is a POS according to those in the know. The 2JZGTE Getrag (sp?) is a faaar better box.

Like you mate, Martin's Soarer had 'box issues. It went home on a trailer due to the box.

I'd say the following will be keen for another run asap (ie August)... MattR whatsisname Martin - The Soarer with a stronger g/box!? Ivan Grepin Freebaggin ......anyone else?

No prob's Iv. Happy to help out mate Felt sorry for you big time mate 1 full pass (that was a total right-off) & then the CV letting go. Better luck next time. I'm keen for August!

Brad, Yep, all sensible advice mate. Had already planned to do as you've posted. Swap cars? Ahh... no thanks Joel, Don't worry mate, my 33 will be seeing A LOT more k's after the rebuild. It still won't see daily duties but it'll be hitting the road as often as possible B-Man, G'day mate. What exactly let go on your engine? Which cylinder/s? Ahh yes... if only it were my decision alone I don't have the time, tools, or faith in my limited knowledge, to do a full rebuild myself (including sourcing all the parts). It's a lot of $$$ to shell out, so I'd rather people who know EXACTLY what they're doing tackle the task. Ivan & the RPM guys have looked after me well in the past, & they will this time too I'll update the forum on my rebuild progress as it happens. Cheers, Matt

Thanks for the kind words mate Trust me when I say I'm not the one who has considered selling it! If it was up to me (& me alone) it wouldn't be going anywhere If, in the very unlikely event, I do manage to keep it then I'll see how much more the current turbo has got in it? I'll aim at running ~18psi on the new motor, depending on how the injector/fuel rail issue goes. As part of the rebuild I'm hoping to get larger injectors & a custom fuel rail (IF it doesn't blow the cost out too much) Why? Well I'd like to get to use the car to full potential for a few months before selling Knock detection with timing retard & traction control would be very nice features to have.

Rob, Not all of them were making large power. One was from a suspected bad batch of fuel. Another was on the dyno (had gone from ~160rwkw to ~220rwkw via a new ECU, + other mod's) when it let go. I wouldn't be too concerned about failure @ the 160rwkw mark mate. As per usual, it's all in the tuning. The more safety margin in the tune, the less likely your are to have a failure. I'd say that @ 250+rwkw with standard internals, you need a safety margin. Another important point - If running stock injectors @ higher than stock fuel pressure, make sure that the fuel pressure is VERY stable, i.e make sure your fuel pressure reg does a very good job regardless of temp's. Its all too easy for the pressure to drop slightly & if the A/FR has been set-up so there's only a small safety margin then that pressure drop is enough to cause an unwanted BANG! Knock detection is certainly a v/good idea. Knock detection that retards timing the millisecond it detects it! Knock detection that gives you a warning you have most likely already damaged your engine isn't much good. And finally, remember we are talking about engines that usually have a few k's on them (sometimes hard driven with mimimal maintenance).