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whatsisname

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Everything posted by whatsisname

  1. Yes good point. Seat of the pants backs up what the dyno sheet shows.
  2. And for a very rough comparison, here's the dyno run (on the same dyno) from a supercharged VE Maloo with a cam/heads package running 13psi boost.
  3. Roughly 325Nm @ 2800RPM Close to 600Nm @ 3500 850ish @ 4200
  4. Finally fitted the new 3.5" dump and front pipe combo' after getting it back from ceramic coating. Almost no change in top end and peak power (462 vs. 463.7kW @ 25psi on E85) but solid gains in both response and peak torque. Apologies for the out of focus and cropped dyno sheet image - will upload a proper one after I pick it up tomorrow. The improvement in area under the curve is pretty obvious.
  5. Running 25psi (620hp @ wheels) and E85 on Splitfires, no issues so far.
  6. Will do mate. I'll take a picture of the logo tonight and send it through. I have a few custom parts with the same logo that I had made some years ago. It's basically the current Nissan corporate logo but with TRUST6 in place of NISSAN using the Japanese aftermarket parts brand Trust font.
  7. Love the designs and quality of your work. I would like a set of the radiator brackets in red anodised and silver combo, with a custom logo : TRUST6. I will try to find a picture of the font and style. Cheers, Matt
  8. It is a bit hard to see it but there's a black alloy protective shield to stop road debris from getting flicked up and hitting it or rubber sticking to it. I used the 20-25psi valve - I think, might need to double check that!
  9. I'm running a 2QT Accusump accumulator with EPC valve kit on my RB30DET. Mounted as per the pictures. Also have a Lewis Engines baffled, trap door sump and billet pump gears.
  10. Is the Power FC CAN Bus compatible? I'm going to guess no. Not everyone has a need for CAN Bus compatibility but it's a deal breaker for me.
  11. It's also not rust free. The earlier statement that they can be found for as low as $8k included the term 'rust free'.
  12. A good condition AE86, and by good I mean clean, rust free, no or decent quality basic bolt-on modifications, is more than $8k. You'd be lucky to find a basic original AE86 for less than $10k. Just checked Car Sales and only two available. Both of them are close to standard with over 270k on the original engine, one for $10k the other $11k. There's one F/S on Gumtree with a few shit quality mod's and rust and the owner wants $10k. One on My105 for $15k - actually there's two, but the other one has been hacked to bits to fit an SR20DET.
  13. Mine (044) lasted for a couple of years of occasional use before it started to show signs of problems.
  14. Yep another one with 044 issues running E85. Didn't fail but wasn't healthy.
  15. A number of years ago I attended a dyno day with my R33 at a workshop with a Mainline roller dyno. I ended up winning the event with a relatively tame (by today's standards) 366kW at the rear wheels. A few days later I put in on the Dyno Dynamics dyno at my regular workshop where it produced 345.7kW. Nothing changed btw the two dyno sessions, even the weather remained largely the same, baro pressure included. That's not to say all DD dynos read lower than MD dynos, merely these two relative to one another. With a small gain in power at the wheels (30 odd kW) the car trapped a smidge under 129mph on a 12.2 sec pass and 2.4 60ft. The car weighed in at roughly 1580kg, including stereo gear, 1/2 tank, me (90kg) and a few extras like chassis bracing, heavy battery etc
  16. I am of the opinion, like many others involved in this conversation, that a dyno is nothing more than a handy tool to have when working on automobiles. A peak horsepower number is simply a rough guide, that really only forms part of the picture. A time slip is far more valuable when assessing the merits of a car and the level of engine modifications performed. Elapsed Time, 60ft time, 330ft, 660ft, 1320ft (402m) speeds and times, Terminal Speed, and finally vehicle weight when assessed in combination leave very little left to interpretation. So by all means, run the subject car on a dyno using Australian calibration data (whatever that is!? Given they seem to vary wildly btw different workshops let alone dyno brands!) but it will bring us no closer to a definitive answer. Run the car at a drag strip and post the time slip and settle the score once and for all. Let me just be clear here, I am not saying the car isn't producing the numbers that are being claimed. I'm merely stating that a dyno number doesn't settle the argument one way or the other. A time slip in combo' with vehicle mass will.
  17. My experience with a Mainline dyno suggests they can be optimistic and in my case it was a Mainline roller dyno. A Mainline hub dyno would be even more optimistic! I took my APR Stage 2+ MKV Golf GTI Pirelli to a dyno day a year or so ago and on the Mainline at the workshop hosting the day it produced 212kW at the front wheels. My regular workshop has a new model Dyno Dynamics and on there it produces 193kW at the wheels I might take my 33 to the same Mainline... should see a decent 'gain' in power. From 462kW to over 480... heck it could crack 500 on a Mainline hub dyno! [emoji38]
  18. They are, the majority of the time.The same in tank set-up (mix of both dual and single) exists in a few local cars through the same workshop. All continue to perform as expected, some over a number of years.
  19. No the pumps aren't staged, they run simultaneously.
  20. Sneaky Pete, I'm running twin Walbro 460lph E85 pumps in tank using a combo of OEM and R33 GT-R pump mount hardware, alloy adapters and steel clamps lockwired closed. Plus twin feed lines, filters and dual entry rail, 53psi base pressure (+ 25psi boost) and ID1000s. Pumps are wired via twin relays direct to the battery. I've seen enough to know I would not use a DW pump .
  21. Had the car back on the dyno today. R33 GTS25t RB25/30DET FP HTA GT3586R .85 256/264 x 8.8 / 9 HKS cams Link G4+ 3" exhaust Twin Walbro 460lph E85 pumps, twin feed lines, twin entry rail, ID1000, 53psi base pressure 462.1kW at 25psi (see video) 780ish Nm Dyno doesn't have rpm input (normally set to road speed) so scaled rpm as best as possible but think it's out by a couple-few hundred rpm making it look laggier than it is. Dyno video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_CeAbH97HLw
  22. No problem at all mate, happy to help out. He is no doubt flat-out preparing Terry's yellow RX2 (630kW rear wheel craziness!) for the ANDRA Finals this weekend but I'm sure I can squeeze in a brief chat. That's the spirit! [emoji4][emoji106] It is well worth the effort and expense. You won't regret it.
  23. Shaun is highly experienced with the entire RB engine range so it would come as a surprise if he hadn't identified VCT wasn't triggering. But stranger things have happened. I drop by the workshop most Friday's, I'll ask him about your car tomorrow if you'd like? As for your original question, it is a no brainer... yes to the RB30 option every time! Here's my HTA3586 .85 RB30 25DET @ 22psi on the same dyno: Same ECU and plenum too. Your RB25DET is producing approx' 85kW at the wheels at 3700rpm vs. my RB2530DET 180+kW At 4400rpm 135kW vs 330+. Car goes back on the dyno Tues to complete the tune - yet to add timing and still rich up top - and wind boost up (~30psi)
  24. 390.3kW at wheels at 18psi 411.1kW at 20psi 428.8kW at 22psi Aiming to run 30psi Video of the 22psi run: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VhnlYVwQlBg&feature=youtu.be
  25. Had the car on the dyno today. Still early stages at the moment. Just finished running-in new the RB25/30DET. Timing and fuel is conservative, purely as we ran out of time in the day to make improvements. A quick power run on 22psi (E85) resulted in the following: 411kW at wheels on just shy of 20psi 428.8kW at 22psi Aiming to run up to 30psi
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