whatsisname

We ALL give a damn about ya Erica I gotta coupla boxes of Kleenex you can have too So what's the main things on the 'hefty list'?

Hmmm? I usually link BBQ with a beer or 2 - not good for racing @ AIR straight afterwards!

Trust me here people! The RB25DET boost cut is a voltage commanded signal that occurs independant of a FIXED boost limit! I.E - it may be 12psi,14psi or even as low as 10psi if the ambient air temp is low enough (& therefore air density is high enough). IT IS NOT A FIXED BOOST LIMIT SET INTO THE ECU! Both the ECU commanded timing retard & boost cut limit are based on the voltage signal from the AFM (I imagine this would be close to 5.0V) These two voltage based limits don't appear to occur @ the same time from my experiences. As I explained in my post above the sudden rush of intake air when you go to WOT will very easily cause the voltage from the AFM to exceed these voltage limits. The more air into your engine via improved breathing (i.e intake, FMIC, more boost etc etc..) the more these cuts will occur. As Gradenko mentioned a quick fix for this is an FCD, not a great device but it works. Personally I'd steer well clear of this method. The only 100% fool proof way around it is to bite the bullet & get some form of aftermarket ECU. Or run less boost Having mentioned all this I have seen some GTS25t's (ALL 95 models too!) that seem to be uneffected but either of the stock ECU's boost or timing AFM voltage limits. I was using a Unichip (that performed the task perfectly - up to a point) & this gave me a 13-14psi boost cut free power curve that was spot on till redline. It wasn't until I fitted & set-up an adjustable exhaust cam gear that the dreaded timing retard started to rear its ugly head again, I say 'again' because my car displayed these cuts as soon as I began to mod. With the cam gear I picked up 10rwkw & 3 HUGE (one almost 30rwkw) power drops (flatspots when on the road) This could literally be seen as the ECU pulled huge amounts of timing out each time this happened, & the dyno curve was like a mountain range! I didn't however have any boost cut issues occuring? Maybe because I'd removed the factory boost solenoid long ago? Fast foward to today & I now get around this issue by having removed my AFM completely I run via MAP vs throttle position - & I love it! Hard to go past the well proven PFC, but if you like to do things a bit different & get the right people to assist in the process PFC alternatives can be very good.

Bummer I'm a no go hence I'm sitting here on my arse in front of my PC. I'd chosen my clutch, picked it up & was ready to go in. I'd installed my new LT handset & Pivot shift light. It was all looking good. *BUT* flywheel machining & balancing wasn't done correctly (long story) so I now have to wait till Monday F@#K IT! Oh yeah, have fun

Hehe Hey Brad you could drive it! You've got the credentials. Naaa if John is a nanna'/soft **** driver then I must be somewhere about the level of a great great great nanna!

I'd say you're hitting the AFM voltage sensed boost limit (usually ~12psi but it depends on air temp/density). If you feed the power on even at 13psi you probably don't experience this jolting right? But if you nail the throttle is jolts. This is due to the rush of intake air through the AFM as the the turbo spools up suddenly. This sudden rush of air causes the AFM voltage to exceed the AFM sensed boost limit. When you feed the throttle on the turbo doesn't spool up with such a big rush & the airflow through the AFM doesn't exceed its voltage limit. The cooler the ambient air temp the lower the boost level that this will occur. Cool air being denser means more air through the AFM & higher voltage levels. A -2'c morning & don't be surprised if it cuts @ 10psi.

Thanks Cheeky Wedding or the drags? Go the wedding! Ahhh don't worry Erica we'll take your car down & run it for you Don't worry we'll get Munro to drive it for ya', 'cause ya' know he drives like a nanna'

Awwww shucks...... right back at ya' big fella. I loves ya's all I'll be happy with anything in the 12's Yeah I've got my clutch sitting in the garage. Fitting it Friday. I ended up going with a single plate too - 9 puck cushion button ceramic & 2400lbs pressure plate. Nothing too Xtreme Fitted a Pivot shift light tonight too. Works well The final latest addition was suppose to arrive today (friday now ) A 2 line handset for the LT12, so I can have all the basic engine info at hand all the time. Should be interesting to see how effective the FMIC is at dropping inlet temps before & after the run? You shouldn't have any worries bedding that clutch in before the 5th mate. Just don't wear it out before hand

You can bring as many cars as you like. The time & date - Time: starts @ 4pm, racing from 5pm till 10.30ish Date - ummm... did you read the thread topic?

I actually couldn't give a rats arse what rwkw figure my car makes to be honest. I merely add this info in my sig' as a reference to MY latest efforts. Be they 1/4 or dyno related. I agree whole heartedly with you that my ET is shit considering the rwkw reading (that's what the dyno spat out & that's what boost it was running) but do you really think that just off 116mph TS on a 2.667 60ft is a good indictation that 13's are the MAXIMUM potential of my car? I've had runs vs cars that have pulled low 12's or even dipped into the high 11's yet the TS isn't much higher than mine. Doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out how good they 60ft'ed! The 1/4 passes in my sig' were run on 17' road tyres & with a badly slipping clutch. In fact I had to drive off the line @ 3000rpm. Anymore rev's & the clutch simply let go causing the engine hit the limiter. My car is by no means a drag car. When I have drag raced my car I've done it every day trim. Nothing is removed not even the spare & wheel jack. I don't drop my tyre pressures @ all (32psi) In short, I simply hop in the car, head to the servo, fill up & run it as is. Why do I do things this way? Because I can. At the end of the day my rwkw reading may well be seriously inflated - if it bothers you that much I can certainly remove the reference to it in my sig'. Good on you for running 11.3 with 260rwkw, & goodluck with 330rwkw on 20psi. I'm happy for you. Out of interest what set-up did you run your 11.3 on? As in what tyres did you use, what gearing -auto/manual, what fuel & so on... What was the 60ft & TS on your 11.3 with 260rwkw pass? Oh & which track? Cheers, Matt

You're not talking about painting rubber hoses are you!? If you are it'll be a total waste of time. The rubber will tend to flex (not much but it won't take much!) & most paints don't handle being flexed. And you can forget about ever removing the painted rubber parts if you don't want the paint to crack straight off.

Will do mate.

I had lengthy conversations with a quite a few "players" in the street car drag scene. ALL of them gave me the same advice - stick with the stock weight flywheel. I think that says something! A number of respectable performance flywheel manufacturers also said the same thing. These people "could" have made an easy sale by telling me "yeah it'll make a huge difference" but they told me what they honestly believed. *Remember - this is looking at it from a pure street car drag perspective* I put the money saved on not getting the light f/wheel towards a 2 line handset for my Microtech (wanted some real time engine stat's without having to hook up the laptop) I might install a shift light too?

Erica, Chill dudette I don't think you're the kind of person to lack judgement when on the road (from what I've seen of your driving). I don't think Andy was singling out ALL p platers. I think he was just making an example & used a P plater in it.

Rev, Give us a buzz while you're in SA mate (if you're in Adelaide or near to?)

I see merit in what you're saying (typed ) mate. I think part of what you're saying involves respect too. Respect for the SkylinesAustralia.com group in general & respect for fellow forum members & their cars. A fellow cruiser doesn't so much need to have the quickest car out there. They just need to "fit in" on cruises as best as possible. In other words don't block others in if they prefer to run up the front, & you don't or can't. Things like someone turning up on a cruise, doing burnouts in a very public area, showering other cars with dirt/rocks & generally not giving a shit about their POS. This is the kind of stuff we can certainly do without! Not that this has happened but you all get what I mean. When it all boils down it's about using a bit of common sense. I'm absolutely stuffed so the above probably came out all wrong

How about Ingle Farm K-mart car park?

Bummer Oh well maybe you could lend John a hand & drive one of the GT-R's for him

Yep mate clutch & flywheel will be balanced. Are ya' bringin' the beast down for a run (& to kick my arse)?

Well after much research I've actually decided against the lightweight flywheel. I'm glad you started this whole flywheel issue up Brad! I've spoken to a number of people in the business of street drag style cars, & I've also read up a bit more on various internet sites. Even Tim (ex RPM owner/ horsepowerinabox head honcho) suggested I stick with the stock flywheel weight. Here's how it was explained to me - The engine starts @ high rpm for the launch in a drag run & doesn't drop more than ~2000rpm throughout the run. This means that the quicker reving light flywheel doesn't really come into play anyway as you're already @ rev's on launch & will remain at high rev's. The gains in quicker response are counted by the faster drop in rev's on gear changes. The light flywheel also means the "perfect launch" becomes harder to achieve as the rev's will drop quicker making the likelyhood of bogging increase. The above probably isn't worded all that well but hopefully it makes some sense? For track racing & general street use I believe the gains in response are well worth fitting a light weight f/wheel, but if quick ET's are you're goal then the torque benefits of the heavier f/wheel on launch are of more use.

Thanks for the input dude. I've had a read on various forums over the weekend myself. It seems the faster rev's/quicker response far outweighs the inertia issue. I'm still not sure which way to go though?

Thanks for the input mate. I guess at the end of the day I'm really not that serious about drag racing to go swapping diff gears (unless it breaks) plus I wanna stay within the HPI Street Drag rules (no slicks) I prefer to run the car 100% as is (no removing seats etc...) so I'll just have to do the best I can with these compromises I see what you saying re the light flywheel. I might be better off just getting a very good clutch & leave it at that. Cheers mate.

Sounds like a plan (AIR s/meet BBQ)

G'day Greg. It's been a while mate! I guess the only good thing about 2mths away is extra $, $ that can be used for that HKS 25XX. How about a HKS GT-RS or 3037S?

I had to do something mate, it was time I progressed beyond a 13sec driver in a 12sec car I wouldn't put it past ya' to get all those things fitted in time mate It'd be nice if we both crack a 12sec pass next meet