whatsisname

Brad, Now you've gone & got me confused mate? The reason I decided on the light weight f/wheel? - A couple of the guys in WA having had improvements over the 1/4 just from upgrading to a lighter FW (4.8kg / stock ~10kg). rev210 (WA forum regular) has quite a bit of prior drag experience & he went from doing 13.8's to 13.4's just from changing to a 4.8kg FW. He backed these times up so it wasn't just driver improvement between the 2 runs. I figured that as long as I keep the rev's up off the line (5k+) & get the car on boost ASAP I should see an improvement. Like you stated the key is not to bog on launch. The reason I've bogged on launch in the past have been from too few rev's. Up till now more rev's have resulted in either excessive w/spin (thanks to my stupidity for not doing a burnout) or clutch slip. Now I have the grip (RE540's) & soon will have a better clutch. A lot more rev's & the better clutch to cope with those rev's were all part of the plan. I believe my car will get its best possible launch by w/spinning just slightly as I come off the line. The w/spin will help build boost ASAP. I would've thought the engines increased responsiveness (due to light FW) would help the boost build even quicker!? Rev's built faster ='s boost builds faster (less lag). I've ordered the clutch & f/wheel but haven't actually paid for anything yet, so I can always cancel the f/wheel plans if it's a bad idea!? Hmmmm, I dunno'? What do you think Brad? Anyone else?

Too easy. Fit a set of 205 Falken Zeix ZE502's on the back (preferably 2nd hand ones) & you'll be able to do the above with your current power level

My new clutch/lightweight flywheel combo is going in next Friday (28th Mar) That'll give me enough time to bed it in & hopefully get used to it (i.e not stalling the car all the time ) Then bring on the 5th Apr & some 5000rpm launches :burnout:

Yep I'll 2nd that Des. Do both while you've got it apart, it'll save money in the long run.

4, 6 & 8mm ID to do the stuff that I've done so far.

A few different places. Autobarn (in Mild End, Adelaide) ASE Morpowa The latter 2 are performance workshops in Adelaide. It comes in numerous colours, is much easier to route than standard rubber, & look ok Not cheap though! 4mm ID - $11 per m 6mm ID - $17 per m 8mm ID - $22 per m Approximate prices. GCG in Sydney stock the stuff, as would a number of places up there I'd imagine.

Naaa stick it on the boot lid, then get a big arse mirror on the bonnet so you can see it backwards - new trend

I'd stick with the factory tacho & just get a shift light (if that's why you want this tacho?) It looks like a piece of shit IMHO.

Last one -

One more -

Here's my effort -

Oops! Forgot about the recirculated heat issue! Yep fair call Sydneykid.

I take it you've got a spare 15k (or something in that region) to spend!

There's no reason (other than failure or for the noise factor) to replace the standard BOV. The factory BOV only becomes a potential problem when closed throttle air flow exceeds what the factory BOV can cope with. In other words the BOV can't dump enough of the intake air on closed throttle & some of it escapes to atmosphere via the compressor. This will be obvious due to compressor surge that will occur. This situation isn't reached until ~400hp. I started to get CS issues after my last round of modification so I switched to a GFB "Basic" BOV. It's a great value BOV as it's cheap (~$190) & is much quieter than most aftermarket BOV's. It also outflows just about every other GFB valve (noise ='s restriction ='s extra cost ) I don't have stalling issues as I don't have an AFM.

Time for a new tyre.

Looks good Ben. Nothin' like getting in there & having a go. Dunno' about painting the rubber intercooler hose joiner though? Go get yourself some coloured silicon boost hoses( red,yellow,blue) it's a tad costly but looks great.

All very true Steve. Didn't think for a second you were having a go at anyone mate I certainly agree with you re setting up a car to go fast for 400m in a straight line & bugger all else! I'd like to think of my car as an "all rounder" rather than a straight line warrior

It doesn't matter how you try to dress it up - the info from a 1/4 mile time slip is FAR more informative on the power potential of a given eng/car combo than any dyno sheet! By 1/4 mile info I mean ET, TS, 60ft & things like ambient track air temp/humidity. If the track is "sticky", as you've put it Steve, the 60ft time will reflect this. A car on a sticky track that records poor 60's has either bogged on launch, had w/spin, or clutch issues. The driver will KNOW this for a fact, likewise with the ambient track temp/humidity conditions. This info is recorded on the time slip! (Well it is on all of mine). Sure there's the potential for inaccuracies in the track timing & temp equipment but I'd tend to put more faith in the ANDRA governed drag strip equipment than a totally unregulated Dyno Dynamics (*insert preferred brand of dyno here*) dyno. I think the best all round solution to dyno v 1/4 info is to have both on hand. If you make gains on the dyno & the ET & TS improve (most importantly TS) then you've made a step in the right direction. My $14.99 (unavoidable price rise due to impending Gulf conflict)

Still using the factory injectors. Along with a Bosch '044 pump, Malpassi rising rate reg & raised f/pressure to suit. 16psi boost & I hit max duty on the datalogger. That's the main reason I only run 13psi (have gone to 15psi for a quick blast).

Stock injectors can be pushed quite a bit further than 180-190rwkw. Providing the reg, pump & fuel pressure are selected to suit a very safe & reliable compromise can be reached. Larger injectors are certainly the best option however. Edit: Further to my above post - Stock injectors that may have clocked up considerable klms can be down on flow capacity (partially blocked, poor spray pattern etc.) & therefore will reach 100% DC below the 370cc factory rating.

I'm convinced a light weight flywheel is worth doing. I'll be fitting one along with a serious clutch upgrade as my next mod

Never a truer word spoken! (typed actually ) I value the small pieces of paper with my car's 1/4 info on them far more than the A4's with my dyno runs. These 2 pieces of paper put together (using the same dyno each time) makes for very handy info

Nothing like spending 10yrs as a bodyboarder on Sydneys inner city breaks to learn how to cope with aggro in the water And then for the total opposite, actually finding anyone 'keen' to go for a session @ Eagle Hawk Neck Reef (Tassie - my old local break) on a gloomy 8'-10'+ storm swell (300 yard paddle over known pointer territory!) But the big pits & end bowl is WORTH IT

Check your PM dude.

Brad, You're gonna' need good rubber on the back! Or lotsa weight in the boot Can you sqeeze bigger rubber under the rear via guard lipping/different offset etc... Mini tubs perhaps? Mind you the diff ratio change will help reduce the w/spin a tiny bit, not enough though. Matt