whatsisname

They retail for ~$1400+ I think? I did mine @ the same time as a bunch of other things so I'm not 100% sure? My ECU was "almost" a full plug & play. The only extra requirement is an inlet air temp sensor (fitted into piping before the throttle body) it's not needed but without it you don't get air temp correction. The AT sensor only needs a chassis earth & can use one of the AFM wires so no extra wire needs to be run @ all. The adapter plug (stock loom to LT12) is configured to suit this set-up. As for ease of tuning? It's quite the opposite to what you've heard actually. The LT12 is very easy to tune! User friendliness is one of it strengths.

Dave, Thanks mate. Here's a quick list of my cars engine mods (most of them) - TRUST exhaust system, dump pipe etc... K&N pod / CAI / Custom heat shielding T3/T4 Garrett turbo - Exact specs I'm not sure! Ring & ask Vince Rigoli, as he's the man who selected the combo'. I do know it's not a high flowed stocky, it's a complete replacement (housings etc.) The exhaust wheel has also had some work done to it. AVO spec adjustable cam gear (exhaust) 4' retard Custom FMIC kit Custom inlet plumbing (delete AFM) 16" DC thermo fan HKS EVC Microtech LT12 ECU (RPM + the one & only Tuna tuning) Bosch '044 fuel pump Malpassi RR adjustable reg Oil catch can, lots of braided lines & anodised fittings etc. GFB "Basic" BOV (Actually flows more CFM than most of the GFB range!) TRUST oil cap / rad cap NGK BKR7EVX plugs Few other minor bits'n'pieces I've done quite a few other mods to the car but none of them relating to power production. Jimx, The A/FR's are responsible for a large % of the power increases, putting actual figures on it is difficult!? Plus as you alter A/FR you also effect timing. The S-AFC is certainly a step in the right direction. It all comes down to how far you want to go? Without a doubt having "full" control over fuel/timing & temp compensation is the way to go. Rev', I wish I knew the exact specs mate! I need to see if Vince can recall what specs he requested from PT? :lol: - Ah yes the old cement in the boot trick!

I'm not too concerned about consumption, as it's not a DD, but for others considering the LT12 I can certainly understand. I'll have to do a decent test. I've got this funny feeling my next trip to the strip will result in another low 13, but with ~115mph TS :burnout:

Thanks mate. Well mate to the best of my knowledge my injectors are still stockies!? With considerably raised fuel pressure (but still sensible levels) & asking the '044 to live up to it reputation the injectors are still coping without a drama! Once I get the graph up you'll be able to see the A/FR's. Previous data logging showed that @ my current f/p it took 16psi of boost before it hit "max duty" on the logger. Edit - I'm still intending on going to 550's, or possibly having the stockies modified (high flowing).

I've posted a bigger spiel in the "Performance" section but here's a quick update, & a few well deserved thank you's. Martin recently spent some time on the dyno tweaking my Microtech LT12 - The end result was a nice safe, yet reasonably decent, 257rwkw on 13psi. Thanks to all involved, including but not limited to - Martin for his friendly assistance, time (one very busy man!) & tuning knowledge. Mark for the dyno time. And a special thanks to Tim/Ivan & all the boys @ RPM/Horsepowerinabox for the considerable number of hrs in hands-on & tuning. Matt

A very big THANKS to Martin Donnon (& HPI mag’) for having a play with my LT12 ECU. The same to Tim/Ivan & the boys @ RPM/Horsepowerinabox for all their assistance, & for putting me onto the LT12 to start with! The end result of 257rwkw was made with 13psi (graph to come shortly). Driveability is excellent! Nil traces of detonation, 11.8:1 A/FR @ the top end & careful attention to timing "should" see plenty of (sensible) hassle free motoring. The stock head gasket has been proven by others to cope with over 300rwkw, providing the tuning is set-up correctly (MD can vouch for this one). Likewise the stock pistons & rods. I don't think I'll be trying to prove these 2 points though. As a reference - A TRUST exhaust equipped (possibly more mod's?) clean healthy R32 GTS-t was run on the dyno before my car & made ~120rwkw. I was surprised to see 80km/h acceleration wheel spin with the A/C on full blast (cause it was 32'c outside) It's not huge power by any stretch of the imagination, but I'm happy considering to level of power producing mods performed so far.

Having had a good hard look @ Bug's dyno sheet I'd say his car/ECU is a freak! The A/FR's were perfect (& I mean perfect!) through the entire rev range, peaking @ 12.3:1 top end. That's not normal territory for a stock RB25DET ECU :confused: On top of that the AFM didn't pull timing @ ALL!!! 2 things the standard R33 ECU does well - Run rich (very rich) & pull timing. Hence the low rwkw figures from untouched ECU'd cars (regardless of other mod's). I too thought the dyno might have been a little optimistic? But when you look @ the other figure from cars on the day they all matched up pretty well (level of mods to rwkw) i.e. a stock R32 GTS-t - 106rwkw, & a blown/intercooled/LS1edited VX 255 CS - 304rwkw. Lets ignore Bug's individual rwkw figure for a sec' & instead compare it to the other cars & their respective modifications (same dyno, same settings, same day). 204rwkw R33 - the usual bolt-ons & remarkable A/FR's! 245rwkw VU SS Ute - with the following: 4 into 1 Custom headers by Exhaust Technology ET Custom Twin 2.5" exhaust, x-pipe ST - PCM recalibration - LS1 Edit M&V Full Rebuild A4, Stage 2 Shift Kit, Trans Cooler 3.46 diff gears 84 mm STARR throttle body TB Bypass Sidewindr Sik TB-MAF Pipe SS CAI + modified cold air intake kingdragon filter & a special "race only" exhaust for the day. Minus the "race only" & it's closer to 235rwkw- or about what summoner is getting out of his VU SS over in WA. And your reasoning is? I must admit I was the first to jump on the bandwagon when somebody claimed 200+rwkw with stock turbo/injectors/ECU etc... Just because that's all it's "suppose to make" doesn't mean it's 100% gospel in every single case. I've witnessed a fair few things that shouldn't ever be able to happen! The real test will come when Bug's runs it down the strip. Then it's a simple case of weight + terminal speed.

Yeah likewise Rev, I change my diff & g/box oil regularly too, in fact given the # of oil cx's to k's traveled it works out to probably every 5k or less!

This car is on the cover (& featured within) Zoom issue No:41 Have a read of the article & see if you think it's worth the $$$. Lots of Nismo / HKS / Apexi parts. All areas modified, suspension, braking dept', the lot! A claimed 11.36 1/4 when the article was written (303kw @ wheels). Add up the total outlay to the build a similar car & you’re in for a rude shock! Sure, nothing is worth what it costs to buy/built but even so this is a very impressive package. The wheels look a bit 'Homo'.......WTF? So just what do good-looking wheels look like then? Kabab, :lol: You gunna' have yarself some reeeelations?

Due to the thread turning into a bitch session it was removed from the "General Automotive Discussion" area, i.e. the last 10 or so post didn't contain much "Automotive Discussion". It wasn't anything you did SS_8Gohan

I can't speak more highly of a product than Redline "Shockproof". It's impressive to say the least! I use Redline in the diff & g/box. This site gives a price guide for Redline products - http://www.gearbox-racing.com/ You need a 1US gallon (3.785L) container for the g/box, & should get @ least 2 diff fluid cx from another 1US Gallon container. It's not cheap but it works very very well.

Yeah good mate I'm actually heading up to Mildura this weekend! So I'll drop in & say g'day You can see our little girl too Send me a PM with your ph# just in case I've lost it. CYA soon!

Yeah mate. The list Ethan_R33 has posted above (including the HKS2530's) has the potential to make ~550+hp (410kw) @ the flywheel. Or ~300+kw @ the wheels. Cams will certainly help the 2530's, & Z32 AFM's would be a good idea too! The stock bottom end & HG will be fine as long as the tuning is set-up correctly.

It sure did, & yep it is! But don't bother using one they're crap, as everyone will tell you The Adelaide guys (& a few out of towners) can let you know how my Microtech LT12 equiped GTS25t runs (i.e idle/cruise/all factory features & so on).

G'day Barks, Based on a good friend of mine doing the same level of work to his '97 33 GT-R, I'd say a real world ~550+hp if set-up & tuned correctly. HKS 2530's will make more though! To make the most of a package like you've listed (& using the 2530's) I'd add cams to your list. Edit - You might want to add a f/pump & reg' upgrade too.

Greg, Last yrs top runners made ~400 to 500rwhp on a very hot steamy day (38'c). There was an old original race XB (I think it was an XB?) that looked rough as guts. It still had the race stickers from yrs ago on it, faded to buggery of course. This thing had a twin turboed 351 in it! It topped the comp'.

Use the "search" option for this kind of info'. I've posted info on both SDU & here about the "Type M" designation a fair few times. 100% CONFIRMED WITHOUT DOUBT - THE R33 "TYPE M" DESIGNATION MEANS ITS THE TURBO MODEL!!!! (not including the GT-R). There is no such thing as an "M Spec" R33 GTS25t/GTS etc... M Spec has come about from people confusing Type M for M spec. An R33 GTS25t is a Type M fullstop! There's no such thing as a non Type M R33 GTS25t! It may have ALL the options fitted (bodykit etc..), or it could have NONE (standard front spoiler etc..). It depends on what the original, or subsiquent, owners wanted. I'm not plucking this info out of my arse, it's straight out of the original Nissan Japan sales books sitting in my bookshelf @ home

Martin, I've noticed most Japanese tuned GT-R's running 9.0+:1 compression. Even the Gibson Motorsport Grp A GT-R's ran 9.5:1 comp' ratio. In a nutshell - HELL YES! That is an offer far too good to refuse :uh-huh: THANKS! Let me know when suits you best & I'll be there. I should be able to manage a day off work if need be. The JZGTE motors certainly are impressive. Not just for their exhaust note either. Any engine that can make a reliable 315+rwkw using stock internals & cams gets my vote. I do believe the turbos off your car are stock, but I'll drop in for a look anyway. If the stockies are sitting on the bench I'm guessing their replacement is soon to go on? Joel, I'd thought about O-ringing, but I don't think I'd have bothered to go to that extent. It's good to hear the Nissan HG is up to the task.

Martin, Thanks for compliments & heads-up on future modifications. I really appreciate it! I've read a little about the HKS GTRS, I'll be reading more now. The stock head gasket is my only other concern, but nothing a decent ~1.5mm one won't fix. Something that hasn't been mentioned on here in regard to the super Soarer, its exhaust note. It sounds awesome! Similar to that of a strong 20B rotary. Yeah too true Chris. I'll get there in the end

Guys, As you can see I've gone edit crazy:looney: I didn't want us to lose this thread as it's got some interesting info within it If anyone has a drama with the editing of the posts please PM me. Now keep up the interesting/valueable info! :grouphug: Matt

Hippy, That’s what I call “taking me literally” :lol: CK69, The range of factory options for the R33 (& other models) is huge! The factory body kit could be selected on the turbo or non-turbo. Pitty they didn’t offer 4WD as an option (except the GT-R). If your R33 has 4WD & isn't a GT-R then it the R33 GTS-4.

Call me a picky bugger, but there's no such thing as a non turbo "M spec". M spec designates the turbo version of the R33 RWD range. You've made the right choice, selling & starting with a turbo model.

Martin, Yeah I agree my engine isn't running to its full potential (atm). I put that down to a grand total of ~1.5hrs tuning so far, including a small amount of on road work (i.e. accel). Give me time, something I have less of than $ these days!. With most manufacturers using what we in the modifying game would call rich mixtures, from the factory, I'm not too concerned about 11.2 A/FR for the time being. Better to be too rich than too lean @ least. But better to be spot on . How's your Microtech tuning skills Martin? You've gotta' admit my engine looks nice & clean @ least Out of interest, how far can you push the stock 1JZGTE injectors? What size are they? "Winner of the longest post in this thread goes to.......Martin"

Bags, A/FR's on the rich side = less chance of the warmer weather & a poor batch of fuel ending them long term fun "Safe" is how I like to play it I prefer to go fast for a long time than a quick bang! That said I'll see how much leaner I can go without pulling timing out of it. I'll let you know mate. If I had the contacts & resources Martin has then my car would be #1 guinea pig for sure! I'd push the limits of stock EVERYTHING (right down to the power I could pump out of the cig' lighter ) But alas I have to work to a budget, & therefore prefer things not break. I don't know a huge amount about the CT12's (or any of the OEM Toyota turbo range) so if Martin has managed to squeeze 280+rwkw using untouched OEM CT12's then I'm not one to argue( I'm impressed!). As printed in HPI #25 - "A brief run @ 1.2bar showed mid 250's would not be out of the question, although failure wouldn't be too far away." You'd have to think the reliability factor of the "tiny ceramic turbines" is being pushed on 1.2+bar though (as Martin would agree). GFXman, GOKU is blown (7psi I think?) & intercooled, plus all the usual fruit.

Brad, In a nutshell - Exhaust gas flows through the turbine wheel (which spins the turbine, it turns the compressor & so on...) Therefore any unburnt fuel (& octane booster) goes through the same path i.e. through the turbine wheel & out the exhaust system. In the case of anti-lag systems (as used on rally cars) LOTS of fuel goes through the turbo, basically turning it into a form of jet engine!