Messiah

hmmm... you might need to actually attach them attachments

hmmm thats a thought... it could give me someplace to put the rb25 that i'll be putting out of a home. more seriously, your spot on with this, and it looks like a good option. it would mean i need a bit more kit to get going. I'd need a crane to pull the engine then i'd need to figure out how to get rid of the body quick afterwards (not alot of room here). but atleast now i kinda have a plan and i can get cracking. I'm doing a search, but while i'm at it, can anyone recommend a good engine stand??

Looking for an rb30 block, must be in serviceable condition. dont mind if the blocks still part of a partially dismantled engine, i'll take the lot assuming it doesnt affect the price. If you have more than one thats even better. let me know what you have and what you want for it and i'll get back to you.

Nice well for the money mentioned above i have no problems buying a few if the fiorst doeasnt work out. I was just worried they might cost a bit and have a high risk of being busticated. As a general rule i dont mind spending up where its a smart move, i just hate the idea of spending lots for a unknown quantity. With what you've all said... i think its time to go shopping.

Had a look, no mention of just the blocks, only assembled bottom ends, its the same with rips. Ideally i'd like to pick up an xrayed and cleaned block i could get on with the buld with (boring etc etc to be done much much later)

I'm doing some research for a planned build. Decided i'd take a rwd 26/30dett route. I've had a bit of a browse through this section and see mixed reports when it comes to finding good rb30 blocks to use. Does anyone have any recommendations, or is it just a case of luck of the draw? If theres is a source of good condition blocks, anyone have an average price?

put me down as a maybe... only the v35's on the road, and its auto, so not all that exciting. (before any auto fans have a go, a stock v35 isnt the quickest thing and with a manual you'd have something to do besides stand on the gas pedal for ~14secs)

series 3 gtr vspec for that price is a little worrying to be honest, what condition is it in? how many k's? i wont answer specifically, but i'll give you some general advice. what kind of car do you want to drive and what kind of money, day to day, do you want to spend on maintaining it? If you want the bestest fasted coolest car ever... no expense spared... then a gtr is always a great choice. If you dont like 4wd, dont want to spend alot of money on maintenance or want something newer, then maybe the gtt is a better option. swings and roundabouts There is no right answer, and neither car is "better", it all comes down to what matters to you. in my experience, i wanted a skyline RIGHT NOW when i bought mine... and rushed it and now i have a 93 33 gts25t.... i wish i'd held out i looked for a gtr, maybe saved more, maybe bought a REALLY nice gtst... but i didnt... i rushed and now i keep wondering what would have happened if i'd been more patient. So think about what you want in the long run, and go after that... buy the right car first time, not just model, but quality and price too. If you cant do a gtr now but want one lots... why not hold off until you can get the one you want,

June edition of hot4's, issue 195.

Hey status, a question to clarify my understanding, not to question yours at all.... VCT changes the duration so that the intake valve opens/closes later when enabled right?? and is only enabled in the top end. wouldnt this result in big loss's in power up high. I think thats one of the things i had shown to me recently but i might be confused. s15 doing 200kw with vct enabled, dropped to 150 without (might have been as high as 170 my memory is foggy). which bit am i getting wrong??

dyno it and compare runs with the vvt plugged and unplugged. If they're the same, then you know you have a vvt problem.

Yup, it was the same event, the article is based on the Olympic park end of the night, the SAU shoot had planned to meet up with them after the palmie shoot and continue taking pics. when we arrived in the area the fuz was out so we detoured away. From the pics above to it appears alot of people managed to hide away in P1 and still have a good shoot.

Heres a few pics from my collection, including my attempts at flash photography, http://www.flickr.com/photos/justplainnift...57623552632605/ I have more but their not hugely different from whats above. If anyone wants anything i've posted hdr'd let me know and i'll add it.

RIP. Didnt know the guys or see the car, but it is sad news none the less. Just wanted to say thanks again to all of you who pitched up to the Palmie end, and i hope those who went to the homebush meet enjoyed it too and dodged the defects and exploding airfilters. Big thanks to Kory too for bringing all his kit with him and letting me have a play, i have to admit i'm useless with flash photography so i have a hell of alot to learn. Now that i know which pics hot4's is going to use i'll be posting up the shots that arent going to be used or arent similar to those that are. Theres some nice group shots and standalone shots of the black and red 32's coming up in the june edition of Hot4's. Unfortunately my favorite shot is going to print, so you'll all have to wait for it (those who got to homebush might have seen it on the screen of my camera).

still got the headlights? what nick are they in? any pics?

good idea Mad, think i'll do that if i can. Still dont know what bits i'll get and where. But if i buy parts separately i could maybe still pick up a blown engine to pull apart for practice.

Yeah tooling is one of those things that is in the back of my mind, from what little i know i know there are some steps that take more than just knowledge and will to do (heating/cooling parts so they fit etc). Regarding time, are there any parts of a build that are considered time critical. eg, if you install part A you only have a limited time to do procedure B before you have the pull a off and start again? by that i dont mean things where you cant leave it a few mins, but rather where a few weeks between work is too long. Oh and anyone want to volunteer to give me feed back on my planned build when i finally sit down and figure it out. I'm thnking rb30 with twins could be nice, nothing too highly strung, just solid.

Cheers Daewoo, thats the kind of advice i was hoping to find. Given all you said, and lets assume i spend the money on good quality parts/balancing work etc what potential for performance is there?? Is it a case of dont even try one day making big power if i build it myself or is it simply do the right prep, follow the instructions, and it should come out solid.

Budgets no biggy, i wont be doing monster builds, but i dont want to skimp either. I know i could build something really low tech as a intro, but i'd like to do something that requires me to do things the right way and take the required care and attention. Also if i build an old cheap block for sometihng i'd have no idea what to do with it at the end, never mind having something to run it in. Building a motor for the line has the added appeal of having something at the end of it all that i can say "i built that.... mostly.... with help".

Hi all, I'm the kind of person who likes making things, i find it leads to a great feeling of satisfaction. One of the things i've always wanted to build was an engine. Do it over an semi extended period, from the ground up, see how it all goes together then maybe drop it into my current car (a gt25st) Never done anything like it before, and none of my mates are mechanics/engine builders, and working full time and studying some other things on the side its hard to find more time to do the tafe thing. I know its a big complex job for someone with no build experience so i'm not even going to think of going it alone. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make a start? Should i just start buying bits, buy a service manual and offering people with the right experience cases of beer to give me a hand??

so are these new dates going to cover the part 2 bits we discussed at the end of last time. I mean can the group on the 14th book in again and get a class that builds on the last one?

quite simply rock up to cruises and track days and take pics, publish online for free and get your name out there. Be even more proactive and organise photoshoots, even if they're not of motorsports events, but just of cars they event can be enough to catch peoples interest. As an example a photoshoot cruise i organised for last weekend attracted the attention of hot4's and might lead to publication of a number of photo's taken by peole at the event.

have you tried telling your passenger to shut up and sit still?

yeah i noticed that last night.. ohwell either way he's two cylinders short.

yeah i READ what you wrote, and you wrote an incredibly cut down version of the details, as did i? simple fact of the matter is we're agreeing the principle and knattering over the details, i will admit tho i missed your mention of voltage and only noticed wattage. but chill, i wasnt calling you a dumb ass just correcting a point of yours i though warrented a little more info. but you are correct, 14v is what is displayed when running, but i'm pretty certain my car wouldnt kick over if it read less than 12.5. Also if i cranked it a few times and it dipped below, it wouldnt start until i left it a little while and the voltage crept up again. But at the end of the day it seems we agree. Not enough voltage/wattage before cranking will certainly mean not enough during. And with a flattish battery that is what you'll get, shows enough juice to turn on a light or an alarm, but will lack the staying power the crank it over. With a note on the alarms and backup batteries, its also worth noting that if your alarm is old the backup battery can get knackered and not hold charge, when this happens it puts additional drain on the battery. This can be why one car will start up after 2 weeks of not running and another wont, all things but backup batterys taken as equal.