Messiah

that switch looks exactly like the antenna switch on my dash, did you check yr antenna when u pressed it?

i've actually been chatting to melv about his, and at 200 for a set it sounds like a good deal, dont think i'll have em by the cruise tho. DJ i didnt know there was a Motorquipe iin hornsby, normally i avoid places like that and castle hill, i'll have to have another look around. Also whats the go with this cruise as it stands? which day what time? i finish work at 1930 on the 12th and thats in gordon so if its gonna be around 8ish i might not get there in time, if its at or after 2030 then its all good.

heh go the draping moanie..... can i pay you to drape over my car too...... i have a few scratches i need attention drawing away from next time i take pics of it

melv?

heh shame u cant get an alarm keyfob put inside, heh push the oil cap and "bleep!" armed.

*whine* i want neons but i'm lazy, someone buy em for me and i'll buy them off ya blue and UV will do nicely j/k

ok so its on for the 12th or has it been moved?

the only place i could find a decah vdc kit for a skyline http://www.carexcess.com/vdc/applications.html

i'm looking to do this too.... most i have found so far are these guys.. http://www.autosportz.com/bodykits_lambo_d..._door_hinge.htm and http://www.decah.net if anyone finds anything else i would be interested to know about it

Bah, well i'm not going to the MG AFAIK, so its a shame (to me) to move the cruise. So i'm gonna go it solo on the 12th myself. Anyone who's not going to MG is welcome to join me. But besides that if i'm free i'll try and turn up to the rescheduled one too.

how was that over the line... i live near wisemans... on a hot day it smells.... plain and simple... its not the residents that do it, its the bloody great river that runs through there. Or have i just missed the point (wouldnt be the first time).

Well its in and installed now, it turns out that routing the tubing is actually pretty easy... heres how i did it. For an S1 R33 1. Remove the dash panel below the steering wheel. 2. Remove the lining that runs up the a pillar then along the top of the drivers door. 3. This should reveal a gap at the base of the a pillar.... run your tubing down this to get it under the dash. 4. take the end of the tubing and tread it through the existing hole in the firewall (located just behind the right hand edge of where the stereo sits, maybe a little higher) 5. this should exit just to the right of the intake manifold if your looking at the engine from the front. 6. Now comes the choice of lines to tap. The closest line is the line that runs to the stock boost sensor (little black box located in the back left corner of the engine bay when viewed from the front). This line leaves from the back of the intake manifold and runs straight left. This is nice and convenient, But if like me you have an apexi mech boost gauge, the supplied T peice is too big for this hose, so instead use the hose from the front of the manifold, its thicker and just like the one from the back... it will gauge the intake manifold pressure. For this i ran under the air intake and other leads to the front. 7. Cut the desired hose where u wish to join and insert your T peice. 8. Attach your gauge hose to your T peice. 9. use cable ties or similar to tighten the join on the T peice 10. find and attach gauge wires to power if applicable (i'm not going to tell you which one, just find on with power when the lights are on but non when they're not (lighter adapter for instance). 11. Depending on the length these wires can either follow tyhe tubing or instead shortcut down the side of the dash and under the panel removed earlier, dont worry when we put the panel back on it will be protected/hidden. 12. Next replace the 2 removed panels (the a pillar panel and the footwell panel) 13. connect your gauge to your hose and wiring and mount as needed.... All done with no hole drilling... did i miss anything?

w00t! i got the cruise bug too.... i'm in! Wisemans is tempting.... see if u all could beat my gorge time (its 5.7km's from the t junction at gall-stone to the first driveway at the hornsby end). Which currently stands at 4mins 33secs (approx avg speed 76km's). Easy target but i'm scared to go faster... them rock walls are real close at times. Palmy might be a better option tho, it has more there as a destination, and doesnt stink of fish too much when its warm.

Ok i'll check with Hornsby Nissan asap. Next big thing is what to get. Ideally i'd prefer to get a whole bunch of general stuff in bulk then let people source any special bits themselves. Heres what i'm thinking of asking for (everyone who pays in advance will get this) 1. Spark plugs (good ones too) 2. oil 3. oil filter 4. fuel filter 5. belts are all pretty straight forward. but the next group 1. Leads 2. Brakes are all kinda varying.... some people have good quality leads that dont need replacing, others dont, and as for brakes.... thats just kinda shakey cos they are damn important and things are bad if its done wrong. Anyone have any additions for the list, the more specific you are the better, if possible i'd like to get brands/types that everyone would be happy to use so i need a good general consensus on parts if possible. As for tools i'm thinking byo. that said there may be some tools that none of us have (like a wrench for an oil filter etc etc). Can anyone think of more of thesde, and if so, does anyone have any spare they can bring with them. heh.... this day is turning out to have alot of variables.

Well its in and installed now, it turns out that routing the tubing is actually pretty easy... heres how i did it. For an S1 R33 1. Remove the dash panel below the steering wheel. 2. Remove the lining that runs up the a pillar then along the top of the drivers door. 3. This should reveal a gap at the base of the a pillar.... run your tubing down this to get it under the dash. 4. take the end of the tubing and tread it through the existing hole in the firewall (located just behind the right hand edge of where the stereo sits, maybe a little higher) 5. this should exit just to the right of the intake manifold if your looking at the engine from the front. 6. Now comes the choice of lines to tap. The closest line is the line that runs to the stock boost sensor (little black box located in the back left corner of the engine bay when viewed from the front). This line leaves from the back of the intake manifold and runs straight left. This is nice and convenient, But if like me you have an apexi mech boost gauge, the supplied T peice is too big for this hose, so instead use the hose from the front of the manifold, its thicker and just like the one from the back... it will gauge the intake manifold pressure. For this i ran under the air intake and other leads to the front. 7. Cut the desired hose where u wish to join and insert your T peice. 8. Attach your gauge hose to your T peice. 9. use cable ties or similar to tighten the join on the T peice 10. find and attach gauge wires to power if applicable (i'm not going to tell you which one, just find on with power when the lights are on but non when they're not (lighter adapter for instance). 11. Depending on the length these wires can either follow tyhe tubing or instead shortcut down the side of the dash and under the panel removed earlier, dont worry when we put the panel back on it will be protected/hidden. 12. Next replace the 2 removed panels (the a pillar panel and the footwell panel 13. connect your gauge to your hose and wiring and mount as needed.... All done with no hole drilling... did i miss anything?

Hey all, Cheers for the great day, had good weather for it too. Ya know i'm still scratching my head over the worked camry.... i mean WHY WORK A CAMRY. Besides that it was a good chance to check out some others works and match a few names and faces. As for the highlight of the day, moanie and her new clutch.... from out of nowhere there would be this mad reving, you look over to see a very nice looking/sounding car and its matching driver and think "gee... which is hotter". End of mindless flattery...... i was gonna say "Gee... which is louder"

I used to live in cherrybrook, now i'm in glenorie... which is in the middle of the sticks.... so "Near" and other terms when used by me are relative to glenorie distances (1 real world km = 1 glenorie meter)

*Retch* oh god..... *heave*..... man and i just cleaned out my glove box.... Heh Your down near thompsons eh moanie..... heh didnt know u were so close.... how many others from here in in the hills area?

Bump.... Oh and sticky too please. Just a further note... Does anyone here work for a garage or parts supplier? i thought i'd see if there is anyone in house who'd like to sell us the bits.

fetch me a bucket..... i feel ill. Next they'll be calling each other "schnookums" or "lovechucks" or sommin

heh this'll be my first cruise, i'll be there... thornleigh is just up the road.

I have a warped idea long these lines. It doesnt have the power drain constraints of using air con but instead replaces it with a problem of size. A friend of mine has 2 vapour phase cooling units lying around at home, when setup in a cascaded arrangement the element will cool to -140 degs C. The condenser coils could be mounted infront of the intercooler (as they're just copper pipes in big open curves , like the back of a fridge). Seeing as its electric there would be no drain from a belt like aircon, but i dont know how sustainable its power requirements are. Anyway, you could connect the cooling element to metal veins in the intake system somewhere (maybe in the cold air box, its cold air intake, or after the pod, or all of the above maybe just attach the element to the intercooler too. any thoughts? M

finding the correct vac line made me realise that i dont know where/ what most of the engine parts are... does anyone know of a good place or pic that will help me learn about a 33gtst engine bay and component locations??

Its an Apexi EL mech gauge so it comes with a mount. My prob isnt mounting it really, its more a case of getting the tubing and wiring the the gauge. I'm not sure how to get to the hose once i've pushed it through the firewall, which hole to push it through (although i think i've spotted a good one) and how to get it from there to the a pillar. Maybe i just need to have a good long play, but i'm hoping to avoid pulling apart more than i have to.

Hey guys, Just got myself a new boost gauge and i'm trying to work out the best place to mount it. I've done a few searches and found what appears the be the best vac line to tap (the one that runs from the back of the plenum then runs left to the back left hand side to a little black box, which i am told is the stock boost sensor). My only conundrum now is trying to work out where to put the gauge. I've spent alot of time sitting in the drivers seat and placing the gauge holder in different places, but i cant seem to find a place that combines easy access to wiring and a short route through the fire wall with a useful legal line of sight mount. I'm been pondering trying to mount it at the base of the drivers side a pillar, its below wheel level and still sits within my view when i look straight forward, but when i look at the available holes through the firewall it makes it look like i'll need to pull the whole dash. I've also found the DIY posted on here, which is good but is now sans picks so i'm pretty much guessing that i'm looking at the right thing. Can anyone give me a few pointers or anything to think on / consider? Cheers M