Andi

Put me down for this, sounds like the perfect oppurtunity to sign up for the NSW membership as well.

Thanks guy, yep I was refering to avoiding R&R. As long as the DFA can do that I'll be happy. I can't manage to find a PFC for an R34 GTT anywhere now at all, so I'll be on this path for a while until I manage to find one or look into the ECU remaps abit further.

Fronts are wider too buddy. DMD The Image do sell the bar you're after though, its been modified to suit the GTT.

Bump, anyone know for certain?

Thats quite a drop Cubes, mines only dropping 1psi so I'm not sure if it could be a problem with my settings or its natural as the turbo/wastegate actuaor is 8 years old. Anybody else have any inputs?

Any updated Shan?

I was aware that R33 were not remappable but I was under the impression it was the same for the R34 due to the same engine? So its actually possible to remap the R34 GTT ECU? If so, this is good as I always wanted to go the remap route to keep the standard cold start, AC etc. functions but thought it wasn't possible for my R34, and since the PFC's are no longer being made this might prove to be the perfect solution if I decide to upgrade to a new turbo. From what I understand the traditional rom tuning method was to 'burn' and image to the rom chips and do a dyno run, then to take the chip out to burn the new necessary adjustments correct? But I'm pretty I read somewhere that someone has made real-time remapping possible? Could this be done on the R34 as well?

Sorry I think you mis-understood my post. I meant it would drop 1psi as in from 12psi to about 11psi & from 9psi to about 8psi towards redline.

Hello all, Before you tell me to search I'll let you know that I HAVE searched and there was alot of data to digest and I did but because there was so many different questions and scenerios I was abit unsure, I thought it was best to just open a new thread to make sure. I have a small amount of mild mods to my car (turbo back exhaust, ebc, fuel pump, fmic, fpr) and I plan to keep the car this way. I really would prefer 250rwkw as I believe this would be the just right amount of power to move our cars weight, but for now I'd prefer a realiable car with less problems - as we all know the power you have the more problems you are likely to run into. I am going to build a Jaycar DFA in a few weeks and after alot of research I believe this is my best choice as I am quite happy with the cars power at the moment but would just like to remove the small flat spot I have at 5000rpm on 12psi and if possible, but not necessary, get rid of the REAL R&R (viscous surge). So my question: Given the amount of mods I have would an Jaycar DFA do what I want to do? That is, to remove the flat spot(s) I get, and if possibly the R&R? Cheers, Andy P.S - who should I ask to tune a DFA? Or should anyone with experience tuning an SAFC/PFC easily be able to use one when given instructions on how to use it? Alot of people have built DFA's; whats the feedback recieved from tuners? P.S.S - please don't recommend a PFC. I've already decided I won't get one until, and thats if, I get a new turbo/injectors/afm setup. And seeing how Apexi no longer are making them it might prove hard.

Hey all, I've recently installed my ProfecB2 EBC and have tuned it myself and was just wondering if it was normal for stock turbos to drop approximately 1psi towards redline even with the EBC? Or have I not tuned it properly? I've spent abit of time doing the tuning and have played around alot with the settings. My mods are: turboback exhaust (split dump, hiflow cat, 3.5' trust catback), ss intake pipe, fmic with 2.5 piping, profecb2, bosch 040. Should I spend some money and get it proerly tuned on a dyno by a professional or is this natural? Cheers, Andy

Nah the R34 doesn't look good without a wing I reckon, change it for a normal wing. How much did you pick the car for by the way? Looks neat, esp with the LMGT4s. Oh and I think that rearbar is the true Nismo rearbar, not the Atila ones with Skyline written over them.

I thought the Gizzmo IEC was an EBC already? Good to hear, now that the PFC has been discountinued I guess I'm just going to have to stick to a voltage bender.

So you're seeing 14 instead of 12psi? Easy answer could simply be that at night you're seeing boost spiking abit higher due to the colder denser air. I see my boost jump up to 9-10psi at night from the 8psi I see during the day on my ProfecB2. Off topic, I remember you writing a thread about the SAFC. Have you been able to rid the notoriouse R&R using the SAFC?

Maybe you guys are forgetting the fact that he said its a GTT. I hardly find the stock volt guage useful. Since the stock dash already has oil pressure I'd keep the oil temp guage in the stock cluster and change the boost guage to a better one and the volt gauge to water temp.

Roy does have a point, its going to be alot of money spent for just a few minutes on a public road. I recommend selling the and getting an S2000 or Type R. Might not rev as quick as you'd like but theres no lag and it'd handle the twisties alot easier.

Check in the Business Traders section, theres a buy going on at the moment for stainless steels intake pipes for stock turbo setup.

As alot of people have said, get rid of weight. Thats the thing that outright kills acceleration the most, you've already gotten rid of most of the interior so now work on the engine bits like lightened flywheel and pulleys, removing AC etc. If you're after response and purely response it might be wise to keep the stock SMIC position so upgrade to an R34 GTT unit or try find an aftermarket ARC or something of the same design. And pretty much what else has listed and go for something like a GT2530.

Is this the 0.86 A/R for the Skyline? Thats actually not bad at all, 16psi by around 3400rpm. Thats VERY good and streetable in my opinion.

Unlucky mate, I was planning to get a set of rims from Tempe but luckily my local guy is stocking them in a few weeks. I was glad because I'd save an hour trip but now I'm relieved that I didn't go there! Anyhow heres a heads up, I saw a set of thos Velvets you're after going on NS.com so maybe these are cheaper for you. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...7&hl=velvet

Holy crap you're hitting 18psi by 3400rpm? I should look into getting one of these! Are these GT30 series turbo's straight bolt onto the stock manifold?

The bits on the inside that covers goes around the boot, the parts that cover the jack etc.

I'll give you $50 for the turbo timer if you post it to my place. Or if you're in Sydney I'll pick up.

If it wasn't red I probably would have taken it. How much are you after for the boot trim and window seal?

Did you get those pictures for me? The parts circled in red. And do you have the rear boot trim?

Good work Sarkis, I'm glad my SMIC helped. You owe me a ride now showing how well the car goes. For those wondering what difference the car makes when going R34 SMIC to FMIC: - I noticed the car pulled harder through to redline - Throttle response seemed to be the same, that is; there was no extra lag (or it wasn't very noticable) between stepping on pedal and car picking up revs accordingly - Turbo lag however, seemed to be slightly increased. Meaning it took slightly longer for the turbo to give that 'rush' feeling but when it came it came on alot stronger where as it was hardly noticable before